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Cruise Control - How to

57K views 178 replies 46 participants last post by  NigelOBB 
#1 ·
Well people, I finally finished fitting the cruise control (Easily done in a morning) and it works superbly.

Have taken the car out a few times now, comfortable cruising and disconects when it should. You can use the up/down button to match traffic speed or press resume to continue on the speed you were doing. I know none of this is ground breaking for those of you who have had cruise control, but this is on my TF and was a breeze to fit, for less than £100.

So, the kit comes in a box with all the adaptors and instructions you will ever need.




The main part of the kit is the actuator which is a black cylinder with a throttle cable coming out of it. It has a tube on the side for a vacuum supply



and also contains all the DIP switches for different settings. I set it up for
PPM = 2000
Speed Signal VSS & Tach
Sensitivity Low (May change to medium for improved response)
Control Switch Norm Open
Tach Source ECM



Possibly, the hardest part was fitting the actuator. This may have been made harder by where I decided to fit it, but this was the logical choice for neatness. I would never have got a drill in the space for mounting the bracket. Thank god for my dremmel thing.



I have mounted it on the right hand side engine compartment (looking from the rear) with the cable initially going towards the front before looping back on itself and going off to the throttle body. This was mainly due to the length of the cable (no real way to shorten it) and the position of the bracket. To mount it you simply drill a few holes and use the self tapping bolts to secure the bracket. This is also a good place to secure the earth connection as well. Remember to set the DIP switches and attach the loom before mounting the actuator, as you will have to remove it again if you forget.





The throttle cable then goes allong the top of the engine compartment and runs through a supplied bracket which bolts onto the existing throttle cable bracket. I had to drill new holes in the new bracket to match the existing holes and trim it to length. The new cable end comes with loads of different ends for every type of throttle imaginable. The one I chose has a loop at one end. You remove the throttle cable and loop the new cable over the nipple end before replacing the original throttle cable. This means that there are essentially 2 cables running in the throttle mechanism. You then join the end cable to the actuator cable as shown in the picture below.



I took the vacuum supply from the brake line. This involved cutting the vacuum pipe (gulp) and fitting the supplied T-piece in line, then cutting a length of supplied tubing and connecting the T-piece to the actuator. **A word of caution here. The book tells you not to use the brake vacuum line. I did at my own risk, but you must ensure a good seal otherwise you will lose assistance on your brakes if you have a leak**



The cables were run upwards, in the supplied plastic conduit, through an unused grommet above the boot hinge. Remember to seal the hole with a new grommet to prevent fumes from the engine compartment entering the driver/passenger compartment.



The conduit then runs behind the seatbelt anchor point, along the bulkhead (below the speaker pod) and down alongside the armrest befor entering the centre tunnel.



The place I chose for the control panel was the cigarette lighter location. Might be a great place for a cigarette lighter but it is a crap place for a socket for charging your phone etc as the cables get in the way of the gear knob. Simply remove the socket and run the cables through the existing hole. Another place I considered for the unit was the lower dash, opposite where the electric mirror controls are. The main reason I chose the cigarette lighter was it sits at your finger tips (Left hand) where as the dash you would have to let go of the stearing wheel with your right hand and lean forwards.



The control unit has a small loom (6 wires) coming from it. Four of them connect to the main loom from the actuator, one connects to earth (Black) and one connects to your sidelight circuit (Grey) to provide illumination at night.



The four coloured wires (Red, brown, green and yellow) clip into a plastic plug and the corresponding 4 wires on the actuator loom clip into a plastic socket. These then push together to connect the two units. The red cable of the actuator socket connects to an ignition supply via a blade fuse (I fitted this last).



Three wires are taken behind the passenger seat (Behind the carpet) and are connected into the car loom that runs up the bulhead at the rear of the passenger door. They are:

Grey wire from the Control unit to the rear side lights (Orange/Yellow)
Grey wire from actuator to the speed signal (White/Orange)
Blue wire from the actuator to the Tachometer feed (White/Black)



The last 2 wires are connected to the brake switch. Red (not the one with the fuse, the other red) connects to the 12V supply side of the switch and purple goes to the switched side. I know in the picture it shows purple and blue, but I didn't have any red cable and I had to extend them to reach.



Lastly I caonnected the red fused supply lead to an ignition switched supply.

A bit of tidying later and this is how it looked.



And the simple controls are pretty self explanatory.



The system works well and is a lot better than I expected.

As before, this is just how I fitted it. It may help someone and I will be more than happy to help via forum and PM if someone wants to fit one but I accept no responsibility for you choosing to fit this system and any problems caused by it.
 
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#4 ·
Excellent m8 well done, i can't give you rep cos i've gotta spread more 1st

ok i need a link to what you bought again cos i lost the link :)

i'll be doing this at some point without a doubt.

just 1 issue i have with it though. i might have a problem fitting the bracket to the throttle body cos my nos bracket is directly there so i might need to modify something

on and i use my cig lighter so i'd need to place the controls somewhere else
 
#7 ·
Cheers guys. It really is simple to fit and is fun accelerating and decelerating using the fingers. I can't imagine it being overly used, but on long journeys it will be brilliant. I don't have problems with my legs or knees but after several days touring my right leg above the knee was fairly sore.

Baracus. If you do a search for CCS-100 on e-bay I am sure a few will come up. I will try to dig out the details of the lad I got mine from but I don't think he has listed any more. I don't think we are on speaking terms as he was upset I gave him neutral feedback.
 
#11 ·
Top job:broon:

I would appreciate you having a gander at this and let me know if it's similar to yours?
I got stung for duty on my last purchase fro the good ol US of A plus a hefty charge from the courier for recovering duty from me Grrrr

Well done
Yeah, I got stung for duty.

It looks similar, but obviously I have no experience of it. If you do get it and have any questions let me know, I might be able to help.
 
#20 ·
Was it the cruise control, or were they just laughing at you? :D

I can see why people would think it is a waste of time on a TF, but you do any motorway driving and you will not regret fitting it. At the end of the day you only need to switch it on when you need it so I don't see the problem.
 
#28 ·
This is from the PDF document

DISENGAGE :
You can disengage from the SET SPEED in two or three ways, depending on the type of transmission ( manual or automatic ) in the vehicle.
- Gently tap the brake pedal to activate the brake lights.
- Turn the control switch to the OFF position.
- For manual transmissions, depress the clutch. This will cause the engine to rev slightly before disengaging
 
#41 ·
they still can it's a bit luck of the draw on customs charges if you are lucky they'll miss your packet. They are not dumb enough to believe all 'gift' packages are gifts though and sellers can end up in trouble for marking commercial packages that way so some will not do it
 
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