Reply from Steve...
Originally Posted by SteveChilds
Yeah, sounds good to me - go ahead
Could you PM me a link to it once you've posted it though please
So here it is...
OK, I know of four ways to access the boot, depending on tools and time available and also how willing you are to damage the car to get access (how desperate the situation is).
The one below is the most complex, but damage free way. How the professionals and thieves do it (the other 3 methods i know of) will not be published here on a public forum.
Method 1 - The Treffen method
This was developed ad-hoc by some enthusiasts (including me!) when one of our group locked their keys in the boot on a tour to Germany (called the Treffen (German for ‘meeting’)). Anyway, we tried some of the other methods but because the boot was jam packed with luggage they weren’t successful.
This method is pretty safe to tell people about, it requires time, patience, tools, full access to the cabin and the keys to actually be in the boot. It also provides a bit of a ‘spectacle’ as you remove panels and trim, so it isn’t really any use to a thief.
Lastly, if you have an aftermarket air filter like the ITG Maxogen, you may find that this needs removing to give you enough access, entailing extra tools / time.
10mm ratchet spanner
A piece of string or a length of bungee cord
Begin by removing your windstop (if you have one), raise the hood and unclip the 5 over-centre catches around the back of the parcel shelf under the carpet. This will release the rear of the hood, allowing you to fold the rear upwards towards the front of the car. Secure in the upright position using the bungee cord diagonally across the top of the hood, or the piece of string tied around the hood frame by the door.
Work the parcel shelf carpet backwards out of the car and place to one side, do the same with the sound deadening material underneath.
Using the 10mm ratchet spanner undo the 11 bolts that secure the engine bay access panel in the parcel shelf area. Note, if you have a TF there will be 13 bolts, also if you have T-Bar speakers then access to three of them is limited, (hence the ratchet spanner). The panel is a tight fit in the parcel shelf and tends to foul the over centre catches as you try to lift it clear of the car, work it past the catches and it’ll eventually come free. Place the panel safely to one side. Admire your engine!
OK, now the tricky part.
The basis of this method is to undo the hinges from the boot lid, this will allow the lid to be opened ‘backwards’ a little, pivoting on the latch just enough to allow you to reach into the boot and retrieve the keys. Here’s how it is done.
First off you will be working blind, by feel – I recommend anyone who reads this to study the way the boot hinges bolt to the boot lid as it’ll pay dividends if, (god forbid) you ever find yourself having to try this for real. Also access is very
limited, don’t be surprised to find a number of bruises on your arms following this job! Using the 10mm socket on the ratchet, reach into the engine bay and find the 2 bolts that secure the boot hinge, carefully undo them, as i say access is limited (small hands are a bonus!) and be careful not to drop the bolts when the come loose!! Repeat for the other side, but you will probably have to unclip the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way.
Carefully lift the rear of the boot lid, note the hinges are spring-loaded and will try to ‘ping’ upwards (potentially scratching the paintwork on the underside of the boot lid and putting tension on the latch), be prepared for them. Do not be tempted to lift the lid too high as you run the risk of bending the bootlid by the latch, also you are limited to how high you can go by the wiring loom on the passenger side hinge (to the lock, boot light and high level brake light).
Retrieve the keys and unlock the boot. Or, if the boot is full, reach in and using the open end of the ratchet spanner, trip the lock release lever towards the driver’s side (the latch will be under tension because the boot lid is raised and therefore will be difficult to trip by hand, lever it across against the lock box).
Put the key in the ignition to stop you locking in the boot again during the reassembly!!!
With the boot unlocked you can now start to reassemble the car. Re-fitting the bootlid is tricky on your own because the hinges are now pointing upwards – ideally collar a passer-by and ask them to take the weight of the lid whilst you bolt it back onto the hinges. Bolt it on roughly, and then adjust the boot lid alignment before nipping the bolts up.
Work the engine bay panel back into the parcel shelf, make sure the hard top wiring isn’t trapped under the cover in the engine bay
(easily done!) then replace the 11 (13) bolts, Important
– it is very easy to strip the threads on these bolts, as a guide, no more than finger tight + half a turn. Note if you have a TF, the additional 2 bolts secure the engine bay braces, do these ones first and make sure the braces are lined up underneath the engine bay panel using the engine bay opening / slot in the boot. These 2 bolts can be done up tightly.
Insert the sound deadening material, and then work the carpet into place, ensuring the hard top wiring is accessible. Do not tuck the edges in yet; you need to put the rear of the hood back first
Undo the string / unclip the bungee cord and lower the rear of the hood. Enter the cabin and reach into the parcel shelf area, fasten the 5 over centre catches, starting with the middle one and working outwards. Finally lower the hood and refit your windstop (if you have one).
Job done - Phew!