: K -series Poor Cold Starting
Wife has a 214 which is usually reluctant to start from cold. Turns moderately on the starter for a while and then usually fires up - but often needs a second go.
I have checked;
Small bore pipe from inlet manifold to Engine management box - this is clear and not broken.
I have replaced:
Dizzy cap and rotor arm.
Any ideas, please ?
P.S. Hot starts are fine !
Plenty of views, but nobody has any ideas ??
You say you've looked at the cap, rotor etc...
These items (Cap, Rotor and HT leads) are the usual suspects for bad cold starting
Replacement (or substitution of known good parts) is often the only way to sort this annoying problem
Looks like I may have to change the leads..would it be worth changing the coil as well ??
Thanks for help Dr. Dave !
Would a T4 check show this problem up? I've just had the check on my 214 and it showed no fault. However, on cold starts I still have to make three attempts to start the thing.
No it wouldn't
T4 cannot check the HT Ignition system
It can only check the low-tension side of the ignition system
I've heard that the resistance can increase on the HT side, using up extra juice and leaving little for the starter motor to turn the engine over quick enough for it to catch.
Any truth in this ??
Nah, not really
If an HT lead/cap/rotor has a high resistance, the HT current will attempt to find the easiest path the earth, which is not necessarily through to the spark plug which will ultimately lead to poor cold/damp starting
Mycar takes three attempts to start when stone cold and then runs beautifully. I starts instantaneously thereafter, until it is cold again, and then the problem returns once more. Does this mean it needs new plugs and leads? It has just had a service.
"My car takes three attempts to start when stone cold"
That's well out of order John...
It should start first 'flick'. This won't do your catalyst (or starter motor) any good at all
If the engine is on its original Cap, HT Leads & rotor then I'd say change them; all should be well thereafter.
<Not promising anything, mind>
:) =P 8)
Nick Walters had a similar problem on his 'F
That was all caused by a faulty cap & rotor arm
He fitted a new cap & rotor (on my advice)and all was well afterwards
It's wierd how it starts instantaneosly for the rest of the day!! Annoying.
Do you suggest I just change the leads and plugs myself or take it to a dealer for another check? I have a 3 year warranty on the car, but I doubt these items are covered. Would they be changed in a service?
John- these parts wouldn't be changed during the course of a service [except the spark plugs] nor would I expect any of the other parts to be covered under any warranty either.
The distributor cap (only use the genuine one) is roughly £13, the rotor arm is £7 and the HT leads are approximately £40
That's why I'd left changing the leads; not exactly cheap are they ?
But I bet that's what is causing the problem >=( >=(
I'll change them this w/e and let you know !
I'll change them this w/e and let you know !
If these lead are leaking HT, you might want to consider this;
Wait until it's pitch black with no street lights if poss,when the car is cold and you expect the problem, look at the HT leads/dizzy cap as someone turns the car over. As Dave says, the high voltage will spark to the least resistance path to ground. You might find a lead sparks to the block or something. Worth a try and it's satisfying to find a fault without just replacing things...
Thanks mate, for the idea.
Trouble is our house is next to a street light, don't fancy leaving it elsewhere overnight, and by definition away from a street light !
Dr. Dave - Been quoted £55(VAT inc.) by Rover Dealer next to work !
That sounds well OTT from memory....>=(
How old is your car Chris?
Wifes (with problem) is a 214SEi 1995.
i.e. M.P.I. with coil and dizzy.
OK, from memory Chris, the HT lead set for the wifes car is £39+VAT
Are Rover Dealers at liberty to set their own prices then ?
Maybe I need to name and shame ?
I used to have a 214SEi, and when I had starter-problems (usually on cold/damp days) and some occasional rough-running, the local garage spent ages going over it and systematically replacing bits and bobs, HT leads, rotor arm etc. All of which made no difference.
It turned out that the CRANK SENSOR was faulty and was feeding bad information to both the car's copmuter and the garage's diagnostic machine.
It might be worth centering their attention on this little piece of technology, as if it continues operating badly - like mine did - the problem could escalate to a dangerous fault which for me, involved the engine cutting out whilst travelling at speed.
Cheers for the tip, I will check this, if the (expensive)leads don't work this w/e.
Had an 800 which died a similar death !!
ooh! Same here! My dad had an 820e which cut-out at speed. Not good when you had only passed your test a month earlier!
With that car, it was the entire caaar's computer which had gone up the creek as appose to an individual sensor.
Yes, I think Rover used a ZX81 on their earlier efforts.....
[Edited by Chris8 on 10-05-2002 at 04:58 PM GMT]
Hmm yeah, crank sensors (ADU7340) give some problems but generally give non-start problems full stop.
May be worth changing it if the leads do not cure it
It's not too dear at about £24+VAT
Not too bad to chage, either....just don't drop the securing screw!
We appear to be cured....
looks like it was the leads
Ta Doc !
Good stuff Chris. This part [HT Leads] are often overlooked by workshops as the cause of poor starting