Hi guys,

I've had this problem for a while but it's getting more noticable...

If I take my foot off the throttle, in any gear, at any speed, at any revs... I get a bounce.. It's quite hard to describe... It's almost like the throttle is bouncing off the end stops so you get a short judder/shudder, but it doesn't matter how fast or slow I remove my foot off the throttle. The bounce is immediate regardless of revs, so it'll do it near tickover.. and up at say 3k (judder very noticable).

The MAF is currently disconnected (bounce problem existed before).

Anybody had anything similar?

Thanks in advance,
Phil.

have u checked the throttle cable? might be something as silly as a nick or shagged cable.

Check the engine mounts.

have u checked the throttle cable? might be something as silly as a nick or shagged cable.

The cable looks ok from the throttle position sensor end, I've greased it and I've made sure the thing travels properly from open to full throttle.

Do the TPS go faulty?

Thanks.
Phil.

Check the engine mounts.

Engine mounts? (You know what question is coming next...)

Why the engine mounts?

Thanks.
Phil.

if the engine mounts are worn it will cause the engine to move/jerk if the revs quckly change, that will make the car jerk.

if the engine mounts are worn it will cause the engine to move/jerk if the revs quckly change, that will make the car jerk.

Is this a common problem with the 200 mk III's?

Thanks.
Phil.

No not a common problem. A good heave backward and forward on the engine in the bay will show if there is any excess movement.

No not a common problem. A good heave backward and forward on the engine in the bay will show if there is any excess movement.

I've had a quick look at the engine mounts, but I don't have a "trained eye" so I think I might get someone to have a look and see. I'm still convinced I've got sensor issues on this car due to the other nigly little problems it's got, but this one could just be a 'simple' engine mount problem.

Cheers.
Phil.

If you can move the engine in any direction more than an inch then something isn't right (as a general rule).
What other problems have you got? Perhaps they are linked? I don't know if you've already checked but have a look at the wiring in the tailgate hinge area. These are well known for fraying, breaking, and causing all sorts of electrical weirdness on the 200's

If you can move the engine in any direction more than an inch then something isn't right (as a general rule).
What other problems have you got? Perhaps they are linked? I don't know if you've already checked but have a look at the wiring in the tailgate hinge area. These are well known for fraying, breaking, and causing all sorts of electrical weirdness on the 200's

I'll check the movement of the engine today.

I've rebuild the wiring in the tailgate grommit.. that originally caused my Central Locking to fail (now it doesn't work at all 'cause it's fused the relays in the Lucas 5AS).

I had some problems were I would take my foot of the throttle and the engine would drop below tickover and almost stall.. around 500rpm on an almost random basis. I disconnected the MAF and the problem seems to be considerably reduced. I need to clean the EGR first before I can pop the MAF back on as I have a feeling the egr could be blocked/leaking and causing the car to choke a little. The car also kangaroos at tickover, so it'll drop to tickover smoothly and then stagger as it trys to maintain tickover.. ie.. if your in second gear at around 3k and take the foot of the throttle, it should drop to tickover and then pull smoothly (well my VAG diesel does), but this car just jolts quite badly until it somehow compensates (maybe 3-5 seconds).

The throttle is very very choppy, so appling a very very very very small amount of movement on the cable causes the car to jolt and shoot away. I've adjusted the TPS several times, all of which make no difference at all.

I think that's it for the time being?!?

Thanks.
Phil.

If the engine mounts aren't at fault then remove the EGR valve from the equation. Remove the little vaccum pipe that leads to it and plug the lose end of the pipe with a small bolt. This will prevent the EGR valve from opening (if it was leaking before it'll still leak though). Leaking EGR valves usually give a lot of black smoke though out the exhaust. I simply removed mine then welded it shut and replaced it. However some people put blanking plates in there instead which also do the trick just fine.

If the engine mounts aren't at fault then remove the EGR valve from the equation. Remove the little vaccum pipe that leads to it and plug the lose end of the pipe with a small bolt. This will prevent the EGR valve from opening (if it was leaking before it'll still leak though). Leaking EGR valves usually give a lot of black smoke though out the exhaust. I simply removed mine then welded it shut and replaced it. However some people put blanking plates in there instead which also do the trick just fine.

That's my next project. I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks.
Phil.