Hi all,

New to forum so bear with me.

I have a '98 VVC 1.8 which just doesn't want to start. If I turn on the ignition without my foot on the accel it just cuts out immediately. If I turn on the ignition with my foot on the accel and tease it, then I can hold the revs (just about) and off I go. Once started the car is absolutely fine.

Had cleaner (or something like that - bear with my terminology - blonde and female) put into the 'Fuel Injection' but that didn't work.

Had it checked (the cpu) and it came back with 'faulty fuel idle valve'. Had that replaced but it's still happening.

It feels like petrol starvation would feel in the old days of carbs.

Anyone got any ideas PLEASE as I love my baby. Have been mooching around this forum but can't find any threads with the same problem.

Thanks again.

The VVC engine is quite well known for the HT leads (spark plug leads) not lasting very long.

my 200 Vi (same engine) went through 3 sets in 24 months.

Could just be something simple. When did it last have a service? Could well be leads or sparks.

And welcome. another vvc coupe owner! :D

Thanks for the welcome. Yep, I just love this car and don't like to see her poorly :) Had a 261Gti before, loved that too. And I can't count the Mini's I've owned. But this car is beautiful.

Serviced about 4 weeks ago ready for the winter.

My garage guy is trying to keep the cost down. As he says, he could try this, try that, try the other and still not sort it. Hence joining this forum - hopefully the first thing he tries will do it.

What he doesn't understand is the only fault showing up was the Idle Valve and that's been changed.

Some peeps have said 'Fuel Filter', 'Cat Blocked'. I would add that about 5 months back (a relative owned it before, he now has a Supra!! - now there's a car to scare you bigtime, a real awesome mean machine :scary: )) loads of stuff came out the back of the exhaust, baffles or something. And I did wonder if that could now be causing my problem. But my mechanic said 'in the order things happen, it shouldn't effect this' !!!

sounds possible - give the exhaust a rattle - can you hear anything?

could be a couple of things - what sensor determines the crank position - does it have its own?

Oh dear, now you're getting technical. I don't know.

I'll try and find out.

Thanks


N.B. Nice to see you're into computers. They're my hobby.

sounds possible - give the exhaust a rattle - can you hear anything?

You thinking colapsed CAT?

You thinking colapsed CAT?
worth a shot!

I still think it it sensor related - crank/throttle - something like that. I could be way off though!

Im quite sure that if it was a colapsed cat then the car would constantly run roughly and with a lack of power. Not just on startup.

Im quite sure that if it was a colapsed cat then the car would constantly run roughly and with a lack of power. Not just on startup.

i agree. when my cat on the vvc went it wasa running rough throughout. started up ok though so dont think its the cat.

Im quite sure that if it was a colapsed cat then the car would constantly run roughly and with a lack of power. Not just on startup.

i agree. when my cat on the vvc went it wasa running rough throughout. started up ok though so dont think its the cat.

well thats ruled that out then! Next!

That's real nice to know.

She runs absolutely fine, no probs whatsoever.

Just doesn't want to get going in the first place :( I must say with each day that goes by, it's harder for her to turnover to begin with. It does turn over (first time I try) and start (as I said with foot on accel), but it's beginning to be hard work. Feels like its straining to do so, a real effort.

Thanks guys for your input. Gonna mention everything above to the mechanic.

check

crank sensor
throttle position sensor
idle air control valve

Dont take my word for it but could it be the ignition coil? I think they can deteriorate as they get older and can get worse and worse (I believe quite common on Honda D series engine) and I think it can cause the engine to be a pain to start.

I think its the ignition coil anyway. On my mums old Rover 214 (1993) it was to the right near the battery area.

Is this starting problem relative temperature? is it just difficult to start when cold? or every time you try and start it?

Thank you. Getting onto mechanic right now.

is it just difficult to start when cold Anytime. Even when you've just driven it down the shops, stop for a couple of mins and start again.


You guys are terrific. :URGOD:

Im quite sure that its nothing serious.

Absolute worst case senario is low compression like my dad had on his fiesta, but I doubt that very much.

Im afraid when it comes to the electrical side of engines (sensors and all that) I cant really help much.

Dont take my word for it but could it be the ignition coil? I think they can deteriorate as they get older and can get worse and worse (I believe quite common on Honda D series engine) and I think it can cause the engine to be a pain to start.

I think its the ignition coil anyway. On my mums old Rover 214 (1993) it was to the right near the battery area.

Is this starting problem relative temperature? is it just difficult to start when cold? or every time you try and start it?
usually hot starting with the D series - dry joints on the main fuel relay cause it to be a PITA to start. a whack of the centre console, just under the heater on the drivers side sorts it out ;)

Thank you. Getting onto mechanic right now.

Anytime. Even when you've just driven it down the shops, stop for a couple of mins and start again.


You guys are terrific. :URGOD:
could even just be duff coil packs - but i'm sure that would affect it all the time.

Guy coming back to run a check via the ECU. Lets hope something else shows up. Everything crossed here.

it might be cheaper to replace the sensors. Does he have a T4 machine? Might be useful for other members if he has?

Don't have a clue what the machine is, but will ask him when I next see him, which hopefully will be very very soon.

Well the guy came out again last week and did another check via the Ecu.

Before he did so, the spark plugs (http://forums.mg-rover.org/) and leads were checked, as were other parts.

Still nothing.



So my mechanic said 'take it to Rover, see what they say.' (My local Rover garage that was, still sorta exists. Although it's now split into two : Honda and Citroen, it still has all the Rover people working there and all the Rover stuff.)

So today I did.


They ran a diagnostics check and found absolutely nothing - well there's a surprise. Then they said as a last resort 'we checked the battery' and guess what - that's what it was!!!!! When they put in a new battery it rocked. Turns over a dream. Engine sounds right again on start up. BUT only time will tell if that really was the problem. I just may be posting again in a few weeks time, but I don't think so.

They said that either it was:

A coincidence in that the first problem (Fuel Idle Control Valve) was masking that there was also a problem with the battery.

Or

The initial problem had caused a battery problem.

Whichever, its now fine. I am SOOOO PLEASED as I just LOVE this car. As soon as I can upload pics I'll put one on here of my radioactive plum mean machine. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/images/smilies/smile.gif


One problem I did notice tonight, but I'm presuming that's because they changed the battery, but I'm not sure, is

When I click the keyfob to get into the car (alarm light is flashing slowly), the door unlocks, but the alarm notification stays flashing on the dash (rapid flashing). The car does start and at that time the alarm notification lights go out. It hadn't used to do that. The lights (slow flashing) used to go out as soon as I clicked on the keyfob. Can I rectify this myself or does it have to go back to Rover.

Thanks.

P.S. Thanks for all your advice/help.


Oh and the guy who has the machine said he has loads of work, can just about cope, so he would rather I did not put out his name and number here.

But I'm gonna ask my mate who owns the garage whether he will let me put his info here, as that would give you access to the 'T4 Man' and it's worth it at the price he charges. :)