: HGF Tomcat
aufo8mycow 28-01-2007, 19:21 Hi guys :)
Forgive me for posting in the incorrect section, but tried the 'how too section' and it says ... I do not have enough privlages.... CHARMING! lol
Anyway, if one of you moderator type people want to shift this to another place that would be fab and if you can see why I can't post that would be great also :)
Anyway.... The problem... I have purchased a fantastic S reg 216 coupe off an absolute (Insert bad word here) who hid the head gasket failure from me when I bought it.. (wondered why the oil was spotless and no anti freeze! he was such a nice fello as he is spending my cash in the pub you... (Further bad word goes here) That being said, it truly is a wonderful example of the 216 coupe, Everything is pristine, no dings..scrapes..new tyres clutch exhaust and in a showroom polished anthracite grey.. <sigh>.. Just this damn problem.. If I was to see him again, I have an uncanny feeling the brakes might fail as well??? Anyway.. I digress...... I was more than aware of the problems on the K16 engines, although I was always a firm believer that these gaskets just don't go on their todd, something leads them to fail, so now big worry and an even bigger expense and also trying to fathom what made it go in the first place.... You always think...nah won't happen to me....
With this in mind, I have decided to undertake the changing of the hg myself, I was just wondering as I knew that LR bought out a hg set that was superior to that of the original Rover ones. and to be honest, I am not keen on buying a unipart, if something better is out there.
Secondly, I was also going to buy a shim to go under the hg, stainless steel I think it is.. anyway.. worth the money?
Finally, the cam sprockets are worrying me slightly as after reading good old Haynes, they advise on making a tool to stop the valves slipping back under the pressure from the springs? Even if I am to make this device, the sprockets have to come off to remove the head so you would of thought if valve pressures could move them.. there going to move as soon as I take this thing off to remove the cam sprockets... Anyway.. I just could of read that part wrong.
I am going to take pictures and make a bit of a how to (Or how not too) and post on here so others who have this problem and want to do it themselves can see how easy.. or hard it really is.
So in brief...
a) Land rover head gasket or unipart, if you have the part number r other model fits that would be great :)
b)To shim or not to shim.....
c) Sprocket locking tool... is it really needed and when do you take it off?
Thanks folks
a) Land Rover if the liner heights are ok
b) LR gasket comes with a shim of sorts
c) Cam sprocket locking/timing tool - yes, makes it much easier....check my ebay items ;)
aufo8mycow 29-01-2007, 19:06 Thanks for the reply Dr Dave :) Spoke to some nutter in Leicester part shop about the LR gasket who gave the our gaskets are better than LR...they are made in denmark and come with a lifetime guarantee yadda yadda... and then the usual...'get rid of it.. never heard of a rover being ok after a hg refit...flog it on ebay....they all fail..ticking time bombs they are (He sounded like Yoda!) ' I did ask him how long he had worked in the motor profession, I don't think he understood I was being sarcastic... hey ho.. was just in the mood for a row but bit my tongue...
Anyway.. forgot a couple more points.
The cam belt was changed 4k ago, looks in good nick..should this be changed also?
And although I haven't gotten to the gasket yet (Should be tomorrow) as far as I am aware it looks to be a slow leak that had got larger as time went on so does not appear to of over heated (Although I cannot guarantee it before I owned it) As it was loosing about 50ml a day when I had it...going up to over 1.5 litres when it started to turn to mayo. Again, the temperature guage stayed just under the half way. I tried the K-seal which stopped the leak but with all the oil change..filter. flushing.. it just makes sense to re do the gasket as I will never trust it again otherwise...So all I can think of its one of the silicone sealant strips around the coolant canals... as no over heating, no back pressure in the expansion tank....heater works fine... Engine runs as beautiful as the day I got it...The only symptoms I can see is the mayo and up until Friday.. the coolant loss...I have never come across one like this before for no other symptoms.. just wondered if it was unusual...?
Anyway.. back to MR Haynes to make sure I don't f%$ this up! Wish there was a car fairy who could just wave a magic wand and say..there seany.. off you pop for a drive..all fixed.. the only car fairies I know want £350 for doing it are fat and smell of oil.... life sucks!
Thanking you all as always :)
Sean
Rusty Bullet 29-01-2007, 22:52 Anyway.. back to MR Haynes to make sure I don't f%$ this up! Wish there was a car fairy who could just wave a magic wand and say..there seany.. off you pop for a drive..all fixed.. the only car fairies I know want £350 for doing it are fat and smell of oil.... life sucks!Just discovered tonight my HG has gave up as well. Water is leaking from the front of the engine, timing belt end! No other symproms except I can see a dribble of (orange anti-freeze) water. :eek:
aufo8mycow 29-01-2007, 23:06 Sorry to hear about your 200 rusty bullet.. Are you defo sure its the head gasket thats gone though? As in you have found a bit of anti freeze which is outside the car rather than sitting in your sump.. It might be worth checking all the hoses..pressure test etc etc. Before you condemn it.. just in case.. Have yo got any of the mayo in your dip or coolant? mmmm mayo in the dip...hungry now.... Anyway..seriously. Though I hoped amongst hope that mine had not gone, yours might just be ok. Do a quick search on the HGF I will keep everything crossed for you in hope its something cheap :)
If not perhaps we should organize a HGF day instead of just the usual meets where we can all get them sorted in one foul swoop!!!! lol BBQ included!!..I can dream lol
Good luck buddy, let us know how you get on.
Sean
Rusty Bullet 29-01-2007, 23:15 If not perhaps we should organize a HGF day instead of just the usual meets where we can all get them sorted in one foul swoop!!!! lol BBQ included!!..I can dream lolI'd love to be wrong, but I doubt it. When one looks at the joint between block and head (below the exhaust manifold, to the left) you can see a little bit of the block protrude. I can see coolant well up there. Also there is a small amount of damp on the road. It's dripping from the 'elbow' of the 2 into 1 down pipe of the exhaust. No apparent water from the water pump or from the inlet manifold, sadly, as this would be easier to fix. Drives fine, no mayo... yet... but I fear that this problem will get worse quickly (typical, why can't one spot these things in a Thursday or Friday?) and I need the car for work. :sick:
aufo8mycow 29-01-2007, 23:24 I know, having a car which you need is great when they go but you are right about it going at the start of the week...Sods law...
Have you thought about k-seal for the interim.. I know you will probably get some melodrama with...don't use it on a K series engine yadda yadda...does more harm than good etc etc.... but its not the same as the old Radweld so really doesn't block the small canals that k series engines use. If you are thinking of doing it soon, it might just give you that bit of time you need before you can get round to fixing it. Its about a tenna from most car part shops, furthermore the AA even carry it now.
Here is the site:
http://www.kalimex.co.uk/index.html
Might be worth a try if its just a small hole, as you and I both know its going to get a whole lot worse before you manage to fix it.
Hope it helps buddy.
Sean
Rusty Bullet 29-01-2007, 23:35 Here is the site:
http://www.kalimex.co.uk/index.html
Might be worth a try if its just a small hole, as you and I both know its going to get a whole lot worse before you manage to fix it.
Hope it helps buddy.
SeanThanks for the help. I've done the HG on a 214 before and you can do it in a day, but that doesn't take into account if the head needs skimming (I'm busy a work at the moment, time off is inconvenient). The crank pulley bolt is a ***** as well!
To add to that, there ain't a Rover stealer here in Newbury anymore and I understand that the 'real' gasket is the one to have. This gasket has meant to have been done once before, but I suspect the last owner used a cheap gasket.
aufo8mycow 29-01-2007, 23:52 I know, no fun for you, hope the weather stays good lol. not sure if you read up on the uprated Land Rover gasket its about #20 quid more expensive My local motor parts store (Cargo Wolstanton) can get it next day dispatch they are pretty good and cheap. I did see a few standard gaskets on ebay will post in 24 hours for around 20 quid all in...34 with new bolt set.
saying all that it sounds like your head has not over heated..so it is highly probable that it has not warped and could be something as simple as the beading has gone. (I'm trying to make you feel better here lol) But seriously, I was under the assumption that the heads usually warp due to over heating..incorect torque sequence etc.. Let us know how you get on was going to take some pics as I do it as I know this job is so common and why are we all paying for someone to do it...as if I can do it....damn sure anyone else can :)
Always been of the opinion...there is nothing a Manchester screwdriver can't fix....(hammer)
Sean
Rusty Bullet 29-01-2007, 23:58 I know, no fun for you, hope the weather stays good lol. not sure if you read up on the uprated Land Rover gasket its about #20 quid more expensive My local motor parts store (Cargo Wolstanton) can get it next day dispatch they are pretty good and cheap. I did see a few standard gaskets on ebay will post in 24 hours for around 20 quid all in...34 with new bolt set.
saying all that it sounds like your head has not over heated..so it is highly probable that it has not warped and could be something as simple as the beading has gone. (I'm trying to make you feel better here lol) But seriously, I was under the assumption that the heads usually warp due to over heating..incorect torque sequence etc.. Let us know how you get on was going to take some pics as I do it as I know this job is so common and why are we all paying for someone to do it...as if I can do it....damn sure anyone else can :) What makes me think is the fact it has meant to have been done once before, it might have over heated then. Also there might be firewall damage (grooves in the shape of the pots in the head) I suspect (hope) it is the (cheap) beading. Do you just throw K-seal in on top of the coolant?
aufo8mycow 30-01-2007, 00:05 Yup, supposed to go in the radiator but will also work through the expansion tank but says takes longer (Took about 30 mins to stop my leak) Stood now for about 4 days and is still at the same level. I have read reports on the K series engines of people with HGF driving over 10k with this still in the car, without ill effects (And not off the gleeming report of the web site) Although I did have al ong chat with one of the reps at the company who was extremely helpful)
so yup, ultimately, it might be worth giving the cooling system a flush to get rid of any oil that might of got in, bleed the system (I'm telling you how to do it then I realized you prob know more than me lol) Turn the heater fan to full, shake bottle for 3 minutes.. Drop all into expansion tank.. if any remain rinse with a bit of water and put this in also. Leave engine running a good 30 mins until you see leak stop (keep wiping it)
As I said, if you are only running short distances and for a short period it might be worth it. although a careful eye on coolant levels and engine temperatures is going to be a pain for the next week or so but it might just give you that bit of time you need.
I really hope it works for you.
Sean
aufo8mycow 30-01-2007, 00:07 Forgot to mention...if it does need a new head.. some cheap ones going on ebay...this one looked promising...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-200-400-CYLINDER-HEAD-K-SERIES_W0QQitemZ300074977883QQihZ020QQcategoryZ104 14QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Rusty Bullet 30-01-2007, 00:21 so yup, ultimately, it might be worth giving the cooling system a flush to get rid of any oil that might of got in, bleed the system (I'm telling you how to do it then I realized you prob know more than me lol)As we speak there doesn't appear to be any cross contaminationAs I said, if you are only running short distances and for a short period it might be worth it.I do 34 miles a day (work and back)although a careful eye on coolant levels and engine temperatures is going to be a pain for the next week or so but it might just give you that bit of time you need.Thanks... sorry I have a sense of humour failure at the moment, so I have provided little in the way of optimism and wit! Things wouldn't be so bad if I just knew the head was alright. I'm off to bed now to sleep and worry for a while!
Thanks all the same!
Cirian75 30-01-2007, 05:28 while this one is pricey, this is how the gasket should look.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FREELANDER-1-8-PETROL-CYLINDER-HEAD-GASKET-MODIFIED-SET_W0QQitemZ300011764546QQihZ020QQcategoryZ31348Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Rusty Bullet 30-01-2007, 07:58 Is this headgasket a dodgy type? i.e. not as good as the Rover original.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4556922296&category=10414&sspagename=rvi:1:3v_
Cirian75 30-01-2007, 08:07 there's so much in the way I can not see the gasket.
Rusty Bullet 30-01-2007, 11:14 there's so much in the way I can not see the gasket.What I was ment to say was, is FAI a cheap patterned copy, or regarded as a reasonable alternative?
£100.00 seems cheap for what you get, Valves, seals, gaskets, bolts, etc...
Cirian75 30-01-2007, 11:40 Go to your local Land-Rover Dealer and ask for the head gasket kit and oil rail for the Free-Lander 1.8 K series petrol engine.
stefan161 31-01-2007, 09:49 Thanks for the help. I've done the HG on a 214 before and you can do it in a day, but that doesn't take into account if the head needs skimming (I'm busy a work at the moment, time off is inconvenient). The crank pulley bolt is a ***** as well!
To add to that, there ain't a Rover stealer here in Newbury anymore and I understand that the 'real' gasket is the one to have. This gasket has meant to have been done once before, but I suspect the last owner used a cheap gasket.
There is a dealer in Newbury mate, details below:
Fawcetts Garage
The Triangle, Pinchington Lane
Newbury
Berkshire
RG14 7HT
01635 46660
Rusty Bullet 31-01-2007, 10:18 There is a dealer in Newbury mate, details below:
Fawcetts Garage
The Triangle, Pinchington Lane
Newbury
Berkshire
RG14 7HT
01635 46660Thanks for that, but I thought they were a Volvo dealer. Have they got a franchise to supply Rover parts as well? Their website doesn't mention it.
Cheers
stefan161 31-01-2007, 13:40 They are listed as an XPart Auto Service Centre at www.xpartautoservicecentre.com (http://www.xpartautoservicecentre.com) which means they should have full access to all MG Rover original parts.
Rusty Bullet 31-01-2007, 15:13 Thanks for the tip, I never knew they supported Rover. Cheers.
Randyjim 31-01-2007, 19:47 According to the xpart website there is a friendly and helpful xpart rover service centre ready to help with my MGR parts needs just up the road from me. When I called them they were only interested in accident repairs and told me I'd have to go to Leicester instead. :irked:
That LR gasket on ebay is actually not a bad price seeing as it includes genuine LR head bolts. They're £8ish each from a stealer, and you need 10 of em. If that kit included the also essential oil rail I'd be jumping at it.
aufo8mycow 31-01-2007, 19:55 Does anyone have the part numbers for the hg sets?
Also is the 1.6 16v k series the same gasket set as the 1.8. As there seems to be some confusion over which gasket set fits which car?
Hope you all can help.
Sean
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