I've just changed the rad on my '94 214Si. When I came to start it, it'll turn over but it won't run. I can't hear the fuel pump priming the system so I'm asuming that it's at fault. I've checked the relays and fuses and inertia switch but still no joy. Also I've noticed that when I lock the door, the red Alarm LED on the dash doesn't flash rapidly before settling to a rhythm, it just stays off and flashes normally after 10 secs or so. Is this an immobiliser problem do you think? Any help would be really appreciated as I don't want a dead Rover on my drive having just bought a new rad, clutch, tyres etc for it!! :guns: :guns3: :rvd:
Did it run beforehand?
The fuel pump doesn't always run when attempting to start the engine...
The alarm fault you have - are you locking the car with the bonnet open? If so, that'll be your problem.
The lack of a fast flash indicates there is a panel open somewhere....check the doors, boot and bonnet are all shut
It ran perfectly beforehand, but even now after being sat for a few days (I even disconnected the battery!!), when you turn the ignition on you can't hear the pump whirring (it always usually does), before I start the car. Any ideas?? Ta very much!!
Weird one this....if you want to test the fuel pump you can remove the realy and short the connectors across and the pump should run
NOTE: Please don't do this if you are not sure how to do it!
The inertia switch is the only other area to look at...
Do you have an HT spark?
I,ve just checked the pump and it's working fine, however, when the engine is turned over there appears no spark from the ht lead to coil. Not sure what the next step is please could you advise?? Cheers.:banghead:
I've also checked the dizzy cap and there was a bit of condensation inside the cap (which I dried off) but the rotor arm etc appear spot on. I have a mate with a Snap-On gadget that you plug into the black box, would this be able to detect faulty coil or ignition module. Cheers anyway for your help.:bgrin:
No, it won't....that's the trouble.
It has to be something simple.......
Coil connections on securely? King lead connected?
The list is endless but I'm convinced it will be something really simple.
So, no HT spark at the spark plug?
Remove the king lead from the centre of the distributor cap and lay it on the engine in such a way there is a 5mm gap between it and a metal part of the engine. Crank it over and observe to see if there is a strong regular spark. If there is, the fault lies within the dizzy car/rotor arm area, very common.
If there is still no spark, perhaps crankshaft sensor? But it doesn't really make sense.
I don't suppose you have disturbed the MEMS ECU connector during your rad change?
Just a thought..............