Do ARP make a kit for the L-series?

They're not that much, and it's a bit of extra insurance against head-lift. Going to look into getting my block wire-ringed, and a copper HG made up too (the joys of being at uni!)

They can do you some, you have to go through rally matt to get them though as he specc'ed them up (I've a feeling they are a set of sizes used on other engines and it'd take some calls to sort out a set).

Be warned, I think there's been a couple of instances where they haven't been sufficient to prevent headlift, though these were with turbos that may have been providing high emp, which wouldn't be as critical an issue with a larger turbo, just keep it in mind.

I would personally seek ETV's advice, materials are his thing so i'd be very surprised if he can't offer a decent opinion on different grade materials, strengths, fragilities and whatnot.

I'm hopefully going compound-charged, using either the later-spec std turbo, or a hybrid (if I can get my hands on a cheap unit) and using the turbo off a 3L TD frontera. EMP will be nicely managed, with a few valves I've been designing ;)

May well end up doing this over several years, and either use it for my final dissertation, or even my masters (if I get a good enough grade to do one)

Final pressure may well be around 40-50psi (or lower, depending on HG thickness)

the studs are not a kit, so have to be made up frrom a few parts in the arp catalogue, best speak to rally_matt if you do not have the time to do the measurements and get you own kit made up etc.

I was told on two occasions now there is not quite enough space to wire ring the head or the block on the L-series, there just does not seem to be enough distance between the pistons to allow for much margin of error.... i was told it would be possible but would not be recommeneded by the machine shop.

(these people do some exotic car engines, so am trusting their word)

I'm hopefully going compound-charged, using either the later-spec std turbo, or a hybrid (if I can get my hands on a cheap unit) and using the turbo off a 3L TD frontera. EMP will be nicely managed, with a few valves I've been designing ;)

May well end up doing this over several years, and either use it for my final dissertation, or even my masters (if I get a good enough grade to do one)

Final pressure may well be around 40-50psi (or lower, depending on HG thickness)

You'll probably find that the 3 litre fonterea is the same sort of size as the standard L series unit. It won't make a lot more power than the L series one.

40-50psi isn't very realistic I'm afraid unless you are building a drag race engine and compound charging although sound in theory proves to be very complex in practice. The newer BMW's do it though.

erm... ok I'm going to be honest..... I don't think I was paying very much attention when typing! Lol

20psi + 15psi = 40-50psi????

I am retard


I will also admit, it's not so much of a daily-driver anymore, so will mainly be for RWYB days - and a test-bed for my bigger ambitions of a cummins 5.9 :D

You'll probably find that the 3 litre fonterea is the same sort of size as the standard L series unit. It won't make a lot more power than the L series one.

40-50psi isn't very realistic I'm afraid unless you are building a drag race engine and compound charging although sound in theory proves to be very complex in practice. The newer BMW's do it though.

Slightly off this topic.. Anyone seen the new BMW head bolts? They weigh about the same as a pack of cigarettes and if over tightened they crack and turn to powder :)
Also the new engine blocks can be held on one hand :lol:

hmmm.... would be interesting to rip one apart to see what they've managed to strip away/upgrade. No doubt, they had to make it weigh as much as a gnats cock, to make it as fast off the line as their petrol models


I'm still of the school of thought - go big, or go home