: heater blower problem starting
This last week on my journeys, with the blower on setting 4, occasionally the actual blower power drops to approximately the 2 setting, although the heat is still the same, it is just the force that drops. Sometimes if i turn it off and back on, it will not start again for 10 minutes or so, but back to full strength. I would like to get on top of this before i get a total failure, anyone experienced this one before.
Do a quick search for resistor packs may be yours are all burning out.
also may be worth checking to make sure it hasnt become blocked and remove and check the airfilter also (give the filter a tap on a wall or the floor a few times if cloth type some time they can be hoovered 1 or 2 times before renewal ).
If filter is hard to remove from housing it may well be stuck in with leaves if it hasnt been checked for awhile.
p.s dont put heater blower on with filter removed you get a face full of crud and it goes all over lol,and when u put filter back you will get a face full of crud while driving from the air vents. :(, i tryied it and its not worth the hassle easyier and safer to give it quick vacuum out with a hoover.
The resistors aren't used on position 4 so I don't see how it could be related to the resistor pack. More likely a fan motor problem, or possibly a fuse or connector has a bad connection.
Thanks for your suggestions. I did clean the filter out last year for the first time ever, which was to say the least, a little bit packed with debris. I will check the connections and fuses, but i am also thinking that the blower motor may be failing. Is this part of the matrix or a separate component altogether
the motor can be pulled out seperatley via 3 or 4 screws on top (think they are screws cant remember of hand, if not screws they are 8 or 10mm headed short screws .
"MikeRJ
The resistors aren't used on position 4 so I don't see how it could be related to the resistor pack. More likely a fan motor problem, or possibly a fuse or connector has a bad connection. "
pritty sure the last larger resistor is used in conjunction with element 2 to share the load between them, if element 2 is burnt out then element 3 will over heat (wire becoming more brittle the hotter it gets )and break making contact and rewelding together if on a bumpy ride giving the motor intermittent power ??.but im probably wrong lol.
Is the blower removal a dashboard removal job ?
technozen 02-01-2011, 21:44 It's a faulty motor, a common problem on the 400/45.
The motor is removed by taking out the three screws at it's base, the motor will then drop out of the housing.
There is no need to remove the dash, taking out the glovebox improves access.
MikeRJ is correct, the resistor pack isn't used on position 4.
It's a faulty motor, a common problem on the 400/45.
The motor is removed by taking out the three screws at it's base, the motor will then drop out of the housing.
There is no need to remove the dash, taking out the glovebox improves access.
MikeRJ is correct, the resistor pack isn't used on position 4.
Thanks for your advice, i will look into removing the motor and replacing
Hi just noticed you in scunny lol, if u need a hand give us a shout also might be worth gettin touch as i may have some things you might want as i sold my 400 and 45 and have some odds and ends kicking around .
ngoodearl 04-01-2011, 12:37 Hi,
I had my heating go just before Christmas. It turned out the fan had burnt out, a fuse had gone and the resistors were shot. I got a replacement fan from a scrapyard, which is far cheaper than the £283 for a part from Rover! A fuse located in the box under the bonnet had gone, which wasn't listed in the handbook, which I got from the scrapyard. When the fan was fitted only speed 4 worked, as mentioned by other people, so got replacement resistors from rezpax.com which don't fail unlike the Rover part.
Hope this helps,
Nathan
Thanks for your advice, i will look into removing the motor and replacing
I just oiled the bearings and it was OK after.
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