Hi, I recently changed oil in my SI. The old filter was a Halfords one, not sure which no. The new Champion F208 was somewhat larger. Does size matter?

It doesn't matter as long as the filter is the correct one for 600si. Outside shape will vary from one manufucterer to another but the part that screws into the engine block and the sealing part is one standard size. Performance i.e. quality of oil filtration may vary with different filter types. I have been using the halfords one, it is white in colour(sometimes black) if I remember correctly and works ok.

I've tended to use Mahle or Mann (although Ray is moving me towards Rover/Honda now) Unfort many copies/clones may be appearing it seems (of named brands) and everyone can always make something cheaper !

To answer your question, the surface area and quality of the whole unit is key,as not knowing what's the quality of what's inside, you get what you pay for.
Found this .. Coopers:Z1142 ?Fram:PH6811?** Mahle:OC115 Mann:W814/80 Motaquip:VFL332 Purolator:L14459 WIX:WL7171 MEHR: COF148 I assume your Halfords was HOF 225
See http://217.6.60.45/mahle/_action/Controller.jsp?folder=mahleFilter and put in oc115 (which equates to Fram PH5317) and then oc205 (which is Fram PH6811).
Also see (useful to see filter schematics on this site, see the sealing ring positions. http://www.sogefifilterdivision.com/catalogues/FO/scripts/cat_rech_correspondance.php?zone=FR&catalogue=FRAM&lang=GB look up other brands etc ie your F208 = PH5317 (which would equate to my Mahle OC115)
The reason I mentioned OC205 is I accidentally put this on my Rover one change (my lad has a Hyundai Coupe). Quality of build matters, I've always tried not to skimp on a few quid saved on the filter. I've no idea the original source of the Champion unit.

Yeah I use genuine Honda oil filters which are made by Purflux, they do seem over-engineered compared to aftermarket filters but they have to put up with 1 year/12.5k or variable service intervals on modern Hondas so 6k on mine is nothing to them.

I did have some concerns when they switched from 80mm to 65mm diameter a few years ago but I remember someone cut the 65mm filter open and the filter material was densely folded and had a overall surface area double of what the usual aftermarket filters even though it was packed in a smaller area, the anti-drain back and bypass valves are also vastly superior.

They weigh 225g dry which is heaver than some larger aftermaket filters.

Thanks Dennis, Devon and Ray. just a further question. My local bar room experts say that you should always change the filter as well when doing an oil change, or is it ok to leave it to the next one?

I always change, illogical not to, as it will contain old oil (assuming anti-drain valve is functioning) and filter membrane not functioning at optimum. (again difficult to know when they are exhausted anyway).
Again there are folks that spend time doing this .. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html I think this was 1999. Worth a read.

Thanks Ray - I must weigh mine (and cut one open one day... !) You are very knowledgeable, are there any cars with
open bypass oil filters sensors (or similar).. As surely the most effective way is knowing when the oil isn't been filtered at all.
(I assume no benefit to the manufacturer though)

I also don't see the point of changing the oil and not the filter at the same time either.

Thanks but not I'm not that knowledgeable Gordon I assume if the bypass is active then the pressure would be off so the oil warning light should come on.

As I said UK/European genuine Honda oil filters made by Purflux which are quite expensive so I've been trying to track down the Purflux aftermarket version P/N: LS350 which amazingly seems to be the same quality as their Genuine Honda branded version. Even more amazingly I'm recommending a French made product. :lol:

Not my pics, have resized them and would link to the original site if it wasn't for the all the swearing in the thread.

http://www.nobody.org.uk/honda/purflux_ls350/img0437w.jpg
http://www.nobody.org.uk/honda/purflux_ls350/img0438zr.jpg
http://www.nobody.org.uk/honda/purflux_ls350/img0439fj.jpg
http://www.nobody.org.uk/honda/purflux_ls350/img0440wt.jpg
http://www.nobody.org.uk/honda/purflux_ls350/img0441qj.jpg
http://www.nobody.org.uk/honda/purflux_ls350/img0442xl.jpg

It does looks the same as the Honda 15400-RBA-F01 filter on the inside as well as the outside. Now if I could only find a UK supplier or the next time I'm over there I'd buy a few if I remember.

I think that I've been using Blueprint filters, based on the understanding that a lot of Japanese consumable components come off the same production line, but the Blueprint branded ones come in a good deal cheaper.

I was amused to see that the last Toyota oem oil filter I bought (from a dealer) said "Made in China"!

My son in law tells me that recent cars have gone back to the "vauxhall viva" days and have a renewable paper type filter in a metal housing

My son in law tells me that recent cars have gone back to the "vauxhall viva" days and have a renewable paper type filter in a metal housing

Oldduffer. Yes, although mainly in a plastic/GRP type housing (my daughters Corsa, for instance) . Purflux looks good.

A good post, more to filter (and life) than meets the eye (and I'm cautious where stuff comes from) Incidentally re. the 'French connection' , my wife works in a shop selling Le Crueset (we can afford some items!), however we knew their stoneware and stainless steel did come from Thailand/China for some years. However seems the cast iron may now be coming from you know where. (although stamped Made in France) Viva la difference ...

Hi Devon, in 1950 my father bought a 1937 Morris 8 which was a well used vehicle. The 12 bhp 998 side valve engine did not bother with things like oil filters. There was a notice on the oil filler cap "CLEAN OIL ESSENTIAL" and that's all the info there was.The engine did not have a water pump as the cooling system was described as thermo- syphon, whatever that was( it boiled up quite a lot ) Oil changes were once a year at a special service station which had a device for sucking the oil from the sump. this oil resembled thick black paint.
Needless to say most engines were worn out at around 35K miles and you did not need a service light to tell you this, as the death rattle of the big ends and the clouds of blue smoke from the exhaust were a ever present reminder.

Hi , In 1955 my father bought a Morris 8 (age unknown to me, well old).. his first car. My memories are : I used to stand on seat and look through sun roof, much older sister finished it off at Toseland (Hunts) on a driving lesson and we all had to walk home 4 miles ! (I was about 5 ). Reminds me, thanks, I must see if sister has photos and what she did to it. Circa 1960 he bought a Morris 1000, which lasted well.

In my youth I had an Austin 1300GT, a bit of a rot box but with twin su carbs and a straight through exhaust it gave the impression of speed, but it was all noise and no substance. The oil filter had a feature which illuminated a dashboard light when it was fully clogged, thus allowing unfiltered oil to circulate.
Not knowing any better, I always waited until this lamp illuminated before changing the filter. Explains why it needed a crank grind and +40thou rebore at 60K miles.