Hello,

I have an N-reg 214SEi, and sometimes on colder, damp days, after failing to start the engine the starter motor refuses to shut off when I release the key. On occasion, I can actually get out of the car with the key in my hand and the starter motor will STILL be trying to start the engine!!! Last winter it left me stranded in the drive as it drained my battery down to nothing. Local Rover garage couldn't find anything wrong with the car, but charged me for the privilage none-the-less >=( . Engine is usually rather lumpy when it starts in the cold weather as well, but a bit of throttle usually clears it.

Can you shed any light on the problem, so that I can take it straight to a more competant garage and get them on it without spending ages pondering.

I have asked numerous people and websites about what to do about my intermittant problem, but am yet to get a positive result.

Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!

Steve,
As with any intermittant problem, diagnosis can be sometimes very difficult and time consuming. In your case, it can ONLY be one or two things. Either the starter motor is recieving a supply to the starter solenoid when it shouldn't be and holding the starter motor 'on' when it should be 'off' - this would most likely be an ignition switch fault.

Secondly, it could be a case of the the pinion sticking casuing the motor to be held in engagement with the flywheel ring gear - cleaning and lubrication of the pinion may well cure this.

Has the starter motor been replaced? If it has, then we can discount scenario #2.

The most convenient way you can check out this problem is to connect a test lamp to the starter motor solenoid connector. Every time you turn the ignition key to position III (Start) this lamp would illuminate whilst the key was turned to the start position (ie-the solenoid is energised, engaging the starter with the engine)
If the lamp stays lit after the key is released, then there is a problem with the ignition switch or associated circuits.

Either way, this problem needs to be sorted soon otherwise other consequential damage may result.

Poor HT leads (more than 6 yrs old/50K?) and worn distributor caps and rotor arms are well known for causing bad cold/damp starting - replacement is fairly cheap and quick. Also worth checking the spark plugs - I suggest you only use NGK BKR6E plugs, correctly gapped, of course!

Let us know how you get on....

[Edited by Dr Dave on 28-12-2001 at 12:00 PM GMT]

Many thanks for the advice! Finally, someone who seems to know what they are talking about!

The rotor arm and distributor cap were replaced recently when the garage were trying to find a fault with another part of the engine. i don't know about the HT leads. I will look into the spark plugs and then get the garage onto the other suggestions you make.

Incidentally, I am knocking on the door of 100k, so I suppose that might have something to do with it.

Thanks again

Steve

Steve - do let us know how you get on.

The HT leads are a bit of a weak point on many of todays cars (not just MGR) - they are aften overlooked by independant garages who are not necessarily familiar with known problems on certain cars.

Try to avoid non-genuine leads - aftermarket leads can be a bit of a hit and miss affair - possibly casuing more problems in the long run.

GHT261 is the part number for the HT lead set for your car with a retail price (I think) of £43+VAT. Just think yourself lucky you haven't got a Vaxhall Tigra - £99/set!!

Kind regards

Dave