http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=275532

Continued from Part 2

Here's the head, with the 12mm torx head stretch bolts.



And here's a 12mm torx socket. It'd be pointless to use a cheap one. It won't seat properly, and it'll strip the bolts. This cost £3.



Again, it's just a case of removing the bolts in...

Continued from Part 1

Once you set the crank pulley with two dots with the line in the centre, this'll line up the cam sprockets perfectly. Don't worry about rotating the engine clockwise or anticlockwise, it's won't damage anything.

The cam markings should be lined up like this:

IN ---- & EXHAUST

There's no other configuration, and it's impossible to mess it up with the crank sprocket lined to the notch. The cams have two notches in...

The head on the MGF's K-series was warped. I bent a valve, and just swapped the head for a spare one while I rebuilt the old one with new valves and seals, etc.

You'll be messing with fuel pipes and possible spilt fuel, so it's recommended to remove the fuel pump relay/fuse and crank the engine to get all the fuel from the fuel rail and to depressurise the system (run until the engine splutters to a petrol starved stop). Removing the metal clamps from the fuel pipes on the inlet produced...

The bulb sits in here, and reflects to the rear. The inside had deteriorated, and what I presume was reflective, is now flat black:



Get a replacement from the scrappy, not worth getting the whole unit if it's this. It just unscrews from the back:



Reassembled:
...