Questions often appear related to the installation of ICE equipment.
In order to save repeated posts and uploading of images, this thread has been created to bring everything together and hopefully make it all clear.
If anyone feels anything should be added then feel free to post.
Whenever you install any kit which makes use of an external amplifier (i.e. not powered by the head unit) you will need a wiring kit. Wiring kits are available from many audio stores and comprise of
• A power cable (around 5m)
• An earth cable (around 1m)
• A twin phono (RCA) interconnect lead (around 5m)
• A remote switch cable (around 5m)
• Fuse holder and terminals
• Speaker cable (around 5m)
• Some kits come with a fuse, otherwise you will need to buy one which is rated correctly for the equipment you wish to install.
AWG stands for Americal Wire Gauge and is often shortened to just "gauge". It represents the thickness of the wire and therefore its current carrying capability, (0 being the thickest).
You will have to buy a wiring kit which contains the correct gauge wiring for your equipment.
For relatively low powered equipment, 8AWG will be fine, for medium powered equipment (or more than one low powered amp) 4AWG will be ideal and for powerful equipment, 0AWG will be needed.
It is often recommended that power cables be installed along one side of the car and audio cables along the other. This is to minimise the risk of alternator whine. Having said this, I've installed systems with all the wiring along the same side and I've never had a problem.
The following diagram assumes you're wanting to install a sub / speakers powered from a single amp.
The ground connection on the amp should be made to a suitable point on the chassis. The metal should be clean and free from paint, rust, or anything else. A factory point is often used to save having to drill into the metal. The remote wire connects to the head unit to allow it to control when the amp switches on and off. This is so the amp's not on when your head unit is off.
The following diagram assumes you're wanting to install more than one amp. The example shows a 2 channel amp for front components and an active sub.
This is similar to installing one amp except for the inclusion of a few extra bits.
One of these is a distribution block, used to split the power cable.
In the diagram, fuse A and wire A should be of sufficient rating to carry the current for both amps. Fuses B and Wires B should be of sufficient rating to carry the current for the respective amps they're connecting to.
In multi-amp setups, the remote wire needs to be linked to both amps.
This is suitable for about two amps at the most otherwise too much current can be drawn from the head unit at once and damage caused. For installations with more amps a seperate supply should be used to send the remote signal, the head unit switching this on through a relay.
Finally, with multiple/4 channel amps, two sets of RCA cables are needed to send the audio signal from the head unit. For head units with only one set of RCA outputs, another option is available.
Firstly, Y splitters may be used. These split the signal from a single RCA lead into two, allowing connections to both amps.
Secondly, some amps have an RCA output as well as an input. If this is the case, it can be used to send the signal along to the second amp.
Hopefully all questions have been answered. If not, post below and I'll add in any extra info, with credit.