Guide to Scratch Free Washing - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 12:50 Thread Starter
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Guide to Scratch Free Washing

In this thread I hope to explain some good practices for washing a car that help in the prevention of inflicting swirl marks to paint.


Whats Wrong With A Sponge?
Millions of people wash their car using a sponge. But if you read the threads on this forum you will see that hardly any members are washing their cars using a traditional sponge... Why is that? It all comes down to the flat flace of the sponge:



Imagine automotive paintwork with your typical dirt and grit paricles sutck on the top of the paint, that you want to wash off to revela your car's shine. Some of these dirt particles are sharp:



Now, if you place a sponge down ontop of these grit particles as you would do if you were washing your car with a sponge, the grit particles become trapped between the face of the sponge and the paint - they have no where to go owing to the flat face of the sponge:



When you wipe the sponge across the paintwork, you wipe the sharp grit particles straight across the paint. As they move over the paint, the dirt particles leave a thin hairline scratch:



These little scratches are highly visible in bright light because they catch the light, and this is what gives you the dreaded swirl marks that rob yuo paint of gloss and colour and ruin the car's look. A pic of bad swirl marks, the result of sponge washing of a car:




Wash Mitts
Lambswool and Sheepswool wash mitts have been developped to get around the problems of sponges trapping grit particles by the flat face. If you run your fingers through a lambwool mitt, you can see that it is deep pile and not flat faced:



Returning to the grit partciles on paintwork, when the wash mitt is placed onto them, the grit particles are absorbed into the mitt - safely away from paintwork so that they cannot scratch the paint:



Therefore, sweeping the mitt across the paint doesn't sweep the grit over the paint also and so you don't inflict lots of tiny hairline scratches.

Note: While washmitts are considerbaly better than sponges, it is impossible to completely avoid inflicting the odd swirl marks here and there using a wash mitt. What follows in this thread are tips on how to keep these inflicted swirls to an absolute minimum.


Which Wash Mitt?
There are a great number of washmitts on the marked nowadays, ranging from lambswool and sheepswool to cotton chenille to microfibre. In my experience the best mitts are the lambswool and sheepswool. When choosing a mitt, choose one with a soft deep pile that will be kind to paintwork. Two excellent mitts are:

Meguiars Lambswool Wash Mitt
Eurow Sheepskin Wash Mitt

and there are others too.


So Many Shampoos! Which to Choose?
At the end of the day, shampoo choice for your car is going to come down to personal prefernce. But there are so many shampoos on the market its hard to know which ones to go for! A couple of things to look for when choosing a car shampoo:

1. Lubricity in the washing solution - you want a shampoo that makes the washing solution feel nice and lubricated so that dirt particles can be encapsulated by this lubricant and any that aren't absorbed into the wash mitt will slide off the paint without scratching in the rinsing water. Soapy suds are pleasing and can make car washing fun, but lubricated wash solution is more important.

2. A shampoo should contain no harsh detergents if you are washing a car that you have spent many hours polishing, sealing and waxing. Harsh detergents strip wax straight off the paintwork leaving your paint surface dried out and unprotected. Fairy Liquid is therefore a big no no for washing cars. You feel what happens to the sking on your hand if in prolonged contact with harsh detergents, it dires the skin out - it will do similar damage to paint.

With this in mind, there are still a huge number of car shampoos that fit the bill - ones that I have used and rate are the following, so if you're struggling on which to choose, try one of the following:

Meguiars #62 Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner (my favourite)
Meguiars Gold Class Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner
Meguiars Hyper Wash (awsome dilution ratio of 400:1 - lasts ages!)
Poorboys Super Slick & Suds
Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner
Einszett Perls


What is the "Two-Bucket Method"
Again, millions of people use a single bucket of car wash solution to wash their car, but if you read the threads on this site you will find most members wash their cars using the "Two-Bucket Method" - whats that?

As suggested by the name, the two bucket method uses two buckets, not one. In thie first bucket, you have your car wash solution as normal. In the second bucket you have clean fresh water. First off you soak your mitt in the wash solution and begin washing the car (as described below). Then, before dunking the wash mitt back into the wash solution, you rinse it out in the second bucket of fresh water - this rinses out the dirt and grit particles from this mitt so that they cannot come into contact with your paint, reducing the number of swirls inflicted.

A grit-guard is also a very worthwhile investment and sits at the bottom of the bucket (I have two, one in the rinsing bucket and one in the wash solution bucket). When dunking you mitt into the fresh water bucket, rub it across the grit guard to increase the amount of grit particles which are removed from the mitt. Also, it keeps them trapped at the bottom of the bucket so even less chance of the mitt picking them back up and them reaching your paintwork to inflict scratches.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 12:51 Thread Starter
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Washing
Here I describe the generic technique I use to wash cars...

Wheels, Arches, Door Jambs
Start with these. When washing your wheels using a wheel brush, the shampoo solution (or wheel cleaner solution) can spray up onto paintwork, and if youve just cleaned the paintwork, you'll end up needing to clean it again to remove the dirty spray from wheels! Don't forget to open all doors and boot and clean the doorjambs and the insides of the door (without getting wash solution into the locking mechanisms, I cover these up) - these areas can pick up a lot of dirt as well and it adds something a little extra to open the door and see the jambs as clean as the rest of the car as these areas are often forgotten about.

Pre-Rinsing
This loosens up dirt and wets the paintwork ready for washing. Using a hose pipe, direct a gentle spray of water at the paintwork at a shallow angle. If you blast the paintwork with high pressure at ninety degrees to the paintwork, you'll force grit into the paint and cause scatches. Just a gentle spray of water to wet the paintwork is all that is required. If you don't have access to a hose, use a watering can with the rose fitted to produce a gentle spary of water:



Shampooing
This is the major stage of the washing process, and the time when most scratches can be inflicted if care is not taken. This removes fresh surface contimaniation from paintwork such as dust, grit, mud, road film etc... Add the correct amount of car wash solution (according to the dilution ratio on the bottle) to your bucket and fill with water to produces suds and lubricated wash solution:



The water can be cold, or warm - I prefer warm water as it keeps my hands warm, especially in winter!!

Now, use the two bucket method described above. Use two washmitts - one for the top areas of the car (roof, bonnet, upper sides above the wheel arch line) and one for the lower areas (below the wheel arch line, front and rear bumpers). Use a light parallel motion when washing, with out applying forceful pressure that will inflict scratches.



If a mark is stubborn and wont come off with gentle movement of the wash mitt, it will require a stronger cleaner such as tar remover or clay. Start from the roof and work down, therefore the large quantities of dirt that form on the lower parts of car are not transferred to the traditionally cleaner upper areas of the car. Try to avoid letting the shampoo dry on the paintwork as this will cause streaks and soap spots, for this reason try to avoid washing in direct sunlight. If you are in direct sunlight, it may be neccessary to wash and rinse a panel art a time. Continue until the car is completed.

Rinsing
Once washed, the next step is to rinse away the soap bubbles and film. If using a hose I first of all use a light spary of water to wet the paintwork (using the rose on the watering can), just like the pre-rinsing step. Then follow this up with a flow of water from the hose (rose off the water can this time). Most shampoos are free rinsing and require this flow of water to make the rinsing water "sheet" off of the paintwork. (This sheeting effect will work best on well sealed and waxed paintwork). On a sealed/waxed car, keep rinsing until the water sheets cleanly off the paintwork and leaves behind only water beads and not flat regions of water. This makes the car essentially self drying! Rinse from the top of the car down.

Drying
Another risk stage as far as scrathes are concerned. First off, I find that using a waffleweave drying towel is far safer and more effective than using a chamois leather. A couple of examples of good quality waffleweave drying towels are:

Sonus Der Wunder drying Towels
Poorboys Waffleweave

Also Pakshak towels are very very good too! Rather than sweeping the towel across the paintwork to remove the water, I prefer to pat dry the car. The sweeping of the towel has more risk of inflicting scratches as stray grit particles may be picked up and inadvertantly swept across the paint inflicting swirl marks. Instead, pat dry the car by laying the towel down over the wet paintwork. Gently pat the towel, then lift off the paintwork. The towel will absorb the water to dry the paint. A thin flim of water may be left behind but this will quickly evaporate to leave a sparkling, streak free finish.

And there we have it - safe washing technique to avoid inflicting dreaded swirls into paintwork.


Thanks Again go to DaveKG From detailingworld for this guide

Last edited by AndBurG; 02-05-2007 at 14:56.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 12:53
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mmmmm - lambswool washmitt
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 20:08
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Originally Posted by AndBurG View Post




God those things are nasty,thank god my car cant see it!
Good for applying trim detailer though.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 22-10-2006, 10:33
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Dude what an awesome guide, just what I wanted. I'm off to Halfords now to buy the stuff.!!!
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 22-10-2006, 11:29
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Great guide dude awsome!
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 22-10-2006, 11:58
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I'll buy two mitts, will they keep my hands warm during the winter?
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 22-10-2006, 13:01
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hey! dont dis the sponge! its a great tool.

if my car were new id use the mit, but because its 6 years old ill just stick with the traditional sponge.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 22-10-2006, 13:23
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my car is twelve years old and I still use a mitt

Then only thing I use a sponge for is my exhaust and wheel arches
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 22-10-2006, 13:32
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Gotta say this is a good thread..........(eats humble pie)
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 22-10-2006, 13:33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empsburna View Post
my car is twelve years old and I still use a mitt

Then only thing I use a sponge for is my exhaust and wheel arches
maybe this will make your kind cringe; to start with i brush all the really dirty bits with a course brush on the end of a aluminium pole! just think of the damage that is doing
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 22-10-2006, 16:06 Thread Starter
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its ok ya cant polish a turd anyway
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-11-2006, 18:15
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Excellent guide mate, i was just going to post and ask how to keep her swirl free after Sunday, but all my questions have been answered here.

Shouldnt this be a sticky, mods?
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-11-2006, 21:34
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hi very helpfull advice and all out of the goodness of your heart and not via trying to milk someone out of money like it seems the world is becoming if you want advice.i still help without ulteria motive if of course there is something im good at which isnt much haha.

do you also have an article on polishing a black car as ive tried everything and my resprayed car just wont shine.everytime its washed even white water marks show and then they need washing off again ive tried t cut but that leaves haze even though its taken off with an electric polisher as im a lazy sod haha.not actually got any black type polish yet though as im really skint what with christmas coming up and the family comes first with the pressies haha.

just wondered if you can advise me what im doing wrong.ive even tried it with laminate floor laquer which is brilliant making the car look like a proper shiny car until that is when it rains and i get left with lovely runs all over the car and making it far worse than before it was sprayed.

i dont even like black why on earth did i choose that colour i keep asking myself haha.

im trying to sell the car to pay for my new old k reg rover that i just got and would feel totally embarrased to flog it when the paint looks like bloody bar be que paint dull and lifeless.tried car laquer too just want a remedy to make it shine and be waterproof when the rain comes down.

PLEASE PLEASE HELP AS I OWE MY MUM SOME MONEY SHE LENT TO BUY MY CAR AND HAVE TO SELL OLD CAR QUICK WHILE ITS MOT AND TAX HAVE A LONG LIFE SPAN

CHEERS DEAN
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-11-2006, 21:50
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Hi Dean.

Autoglym Super Resin polish is the answer -

T cut should be banned - its sandpaper in a bottle.
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-11-2006, 10:59
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AndBurG - If you wrote that guide originally quick heads up, i saw that on another site the other day when i was browsing around. Can't remember where tho
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-11-2006, 11:26 Thread Starter
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no i didn't i have credited the author tho

its around quite a few forums

Dean whereabouts are you??? sounds interesting that its dull black paint, if you're anywhere near one of us we'll gladly take a quick look at it for you and recommend a course of action
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-11-2006, 11:44
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hehe, didnt read the whole thing, didnt spot the credits at the end.. doh!!

Great guide, i'll be giving mine a decent go over in the near future after i get some body work done on it. sure i'll be refering back to this guide at some point
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-05-2007, 14:33
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Quote:
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I'll buy two mitts, will they keep my hands warm during the winter?

Blimey Dave, I was reading the guide and then noticed how many posts you have contributed, a quick estimate of 70 per day, every day for two years! I am suprised you have time to wash cars let alone fix them!
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-05-2007, 15:46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike-MGR View Post
Blimey Dave, I was reading the guide and then noticed how many posts you have contributed, a quick estimate of 70 per day, every day for two years! I am suprised you have time to wash cars let alone fix them!
Nah, he's been on here for 4 years, so it's ONLY 35 per day lol
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