New clutch, insanely low bite point? - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 18:38 Thread Starter
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New clutch, insanely low bite point?

Changed my clutch this weekend (wish I'd let somebody else do it, but that's another story) and after a short test, the bite point is *really* low - like barely off the floor!

Is that normal for a new clutch, or is there something I ought to have done differently? I'm hoping a little bedding in will raise it a little?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 20:41
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Clutch wear will move the lever in a direction towards raising the bite point, but this would only be noticed if the adjustment mechanisms (cable 25, hydraulic 45) have run out of travel. It would take thousands of miles for a clutch to wear enough to improve the bite point.

The problem may be that that the cylinder bracket has bent and was ok for a worn clutch. This is a common problem I have had with non OEM cables on Metros, 200s and 25s, they are ok with worn clutches but often need bulkhead packing washers if you fit a new clutch to give a proper biting point.

I can think of a few things that might cause this but the following list is not exclusive:-

The plastic thrust bearing holder is displaced or maybe not clipped onto the pins of the release fork properly or else the plastic moulding is damaged
The thrust bearing is wrong type or incorrectly manufactured
The support bracket for the hydraulic cylinder is broken or bent
Air in the hydraulics, though they should be self bleeding.
The clutch is incorrectly manufactured (I had this with a Quinton Hazell Verto clutch kit I bought for my Metro)

The last clutch I fitted I paid big money for an MGR OEM unit because I have got sick of the hit and miss quality of after market parts. Some are ok, but you take pot luck these days. The Partco clutch I fitted to my 25 lasted 30k Miles and disintegrated. The original lasted 170k and my other 25 is still on the original clutch at 187k.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 21:09 Thread Starter
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The release bearing was clipped on fine when I last saw it, I guess it may have come loose during the fitting.

Support bracket seemed to be in good order.

Air in the hydraulics, I've not separated the lines but I guess the slave cylinder being free and moved about a lot may have upset the apple cart a bit, perhaps that has something to do with it. Obviously the hydraulics are supposed to be self bleeding so I'll see how things shape up after a bit of driving.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 17:33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunny_Brain View Post
The last clutch I fitted I paid big money for an MGR OEM unit because I have got sick of the hit and miss quality of after market parts. Some are ok, but you take pot luck these days. The Partco clutch I fitted to my 25 lasted 30k Miles and disintegrated. The original lasted 170k and my other 25 is still on the original clutch at 187k.
It's worthy of note a lot of genuine parts aren't made by the OEM for Rover anymore - if anyone is curious as to this regarding any particular part, I can find out from XPart.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 22-05-2016, 18:14 Thread Starter
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Well the past few weeks has been a bit of a saga.

The bite point was so low that after a few miles, once the car had warmed up the clutch was dragging. Had to ram my foot to the floor like a lunatic trying to get it into 1st or reverse lol.

I got a new master off of Matt and swapped that over, along with a LUK slave cylinder... made it worse, couldn't get it into gear at all!

Put the oe slave back on, and with the new master things were a bit better, but it was no solution.

So, scratching my head, I thought I could either get the box off, cross my fingers and swap for a different clutch... but I had neither the time nor inclination for this.

Or I could order the Sheddist kit from DID and see if that would sort it. I chose the latter...

And what a result! After the phaff of bleeding it, the pedal is firm as you like, the bite point is adjustable (ironically, it's too high at the moment haha) and its far better than it ever was.

I also did the UJ mod to the gear linkage, changing gear has never been so good 😂
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 28-12-2016, 20:43
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Hi Chrisund123,

I've been searching for bleeding tips for the sheddist kit on my 45td. I fitted it today without issue but bleeding it has me beaten at the moment.

The master cylinder does not seem to draw in fluid from the reservoir therefore no pressure down the line into the slave cylinder.

Any tips?

Cheers, JC
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