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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 28-04-2013, 14:09 Thread Starter
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Poor performance and very poor starting

Hi,

I seem to be having a problem with my 1996 rover 220 SD. Im normally used to a petrol and would do everything myself, but with these modern diesels...well im abit lost!

All was fine since ive owned it. Its been serviced regularly and had all of its belts done about a month ago. Now all was fine untill a couple of days ago. I did about 1200 miles in a day and about 30 miles from home the engine warning light came on and it severely lost power over about 2000 RPM.

Well it got me home but when i tried to start it the next day it took a good 2 minutes...splutter plutter splutter until it finally ran but it wouldnt idle very well at all - i had to rev it for a while for it sit and idle.

From then on it chugs (sounds like a petrol running on 3 cylinders) As the car warms up it idles almost perfectly and you wouldnt know there was a problem untill you put your foot down and it literally has no power (it kinda feels like the turbo isnt kicking in?) I will get about a mile down the road and the enigne warning light will reappear

Ive had a look under the bonnet and all seems well. The only thing i can think of is the needle lift sensor which when i unplugged the cable seemed to have abit of water/oil/muck in where the wires connect which could be shorting? when unplugged the engine runs slightly better...

Im abit lost...

Thanks everyone in advance
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 28-04-2013, 16:07 Thread Starter
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just to change what i said above - the needle lift sensor on the injector 1 doesnt make any difference if unplugged...is this normal?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 28-04-2013, 17:38
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Check the timing of the fuel pump seeing as you've just had the belts done.

Sounds like the timing is out, and maybe the timing solenoid has failed (solenoid adjusts timing on the go)

Hopefully that's all that's up with it, but another member on here had trouble with the timing and I think he said it can damage the pump (Chaz)

Checking the timing wont cost anything and its the first place I would start.

Good luck
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 28-04-2013, 21:16
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As above, I'd be checking the timing on the fuel pump.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 12:36 Thread Starter
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Hi,

Thanks for your replies

Is it that easy to get it checked? Could i do it myself? (quite handy with a spanner!)

Just thinking as it was a garage that did it and i dont want them to check it and say that everything is fine and then charge me - but again i dont want to scrap it

It was running fine after the belt change - could it of slipped?
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 15:23
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There's always a chance they didn't tighten the bolt securing the tensioner enough, so it's kinda slipped after a bit of driving?

Easy as pie to check - you just need:


# 6.5mm drillbit, to lock the flywheel
# 9.5mm drillbit, to lock the fuel pump
# 18mm spanner/socket
# I think an 8mm socket (to remove the fuel pump belt cover)
# an assistant, to turn the crank

Jack the car up,and remove the drivers wheel. Get the 18mm socket/spanner on the crank bolt, and get your assistant to slowly turn the bolt, whilst you're leaning over the engine, wiggling the 6.5mm drillbit in the locking hole (just under the flywheel sensor). When it's at the right point, the drillbit will slip in.

Now take off the timing belt cover for the fuel pump (you will most likely need to remove the airbox, some 8mm bolts hold it to the battery tray) and find all of the million 8mm bolts holding the cover on.

The fuel pump locking hole should be at around the 11 o'clock position on the pump pulley - slide the 9.5mm drillbit in. It should go in the depth of the pulley, and then around 10mm more... and be very easy to do so.


Also check the tension of the belt, it should be pretty taut, and not flapping around. If it's flapping around, the tensioner's gone loose.



Give it a check, and report back
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 15:26
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I had same problem starting mine after a belt change, turns out the timing was way out, so as everyone else has said check timing lol
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 15:27
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Lol, also:

Quote:
Originally Posted by roverchippy View Post
but with these modern diesels...well im abit lost!
There's nothing modern about an SD!

ECU literally controls timing advance, and EGR solenoid. Fuelling is purely mechanical baby!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 15:56
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Wink

Get a Haynes manual it will tell you exactly how to do it with pictures?easy peasy
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 16:19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saxongold View Post
Get a Haynes manual it will tell you exactly how to do it with pictures?easy peasy
It would help to have a Haynes manual, though if you follow it to the T the timing is wrong more often than not I think (could be wrong)
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 16:30
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haynes manual

Haynes Manuals used to fairly easy to read with a good howto all as one chapter but with the diesel its go to this page then that page then refer to a different page Maybe its age related but to follow a haynes how to now is a right PITA and as others have stated not really clear enough and can be carried out wrong think the how to's on this site are better IMHO

:-)
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 17:48
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+1 For what 'Dastardly' has put....insert drill bits in the correct holes to lock everything-up, check the injector belt for slackness...if everything seems to be ok...then undo the 4 x 10mm bolts on the camshaft pulley (use a black marker before you do this and just mark the centre point of each bolt on the camshaft pulley...just for reference to your original set-up) Then you can move the camshaft 5mm either anti-clockwise or clockwise using the centre bolt head on the camshaft. try moving it anti-clkockwiuse first, then 'nip-up the 4 bolts'and try to start the car...if it is worse, then loosten the 4 x 10mm bolts and turn the pulley clockwise...past your original marks,...fully to the right, then 'nip-up' and try again...its a bit trial & error....but you WILL see/hear the difference to ease of starting - to noisy/jerky running. (i love the adjustment on the camshaft pulley...brilliant idea)

Hope this helps....did my belt myself, it was my first time on a diesel, i thought i had buggered-up the fuel pump, it ran ok...but sounded like farmer piles tractor, and was difficult to start etc....

Regards Ade.

Quick note...i also noticed a difference to the running (after setting the timing correctly) when i plugged the MAF sensor back in, smooth as silk. and relatively quiet as well.

Last edited by monsigna; 01-05-2013 at 19:23.
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