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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 22-02-2017, 19:18 Thread Starter
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Poor running MG ZS TD

Hi all,
Bit of a long story/saga.
Drove the MG ZS TD beforehand, one engine swap and an EGR blank off later, now I have a poorly running car. I swapped the pump and injectors from the original engine so known to be good/OK.

It hunts all over the place, revs up on its own, tries to cut out, cuts out, struggles to restart.
(restarts easier if I lock it with the key and then the unlock with the fob, coincidence maybe??)
If I hold the throttle open at a constant position the needle on the rev counter jumps all over the place, drops to zero and bounces around (just like a petrol engine with a faulty coil/HT circuit.

One of the engine management lights was on as I disconnected the Air mass meter beforehand, but driving it down the farm track brought the other engine management light on as well.

The fault codes I got on the reader are -
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 circuit high.
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow A circuit low.
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit range/performance.

I have pictures and videos if I knew how to upload them, lol.

I have bought a aftermarket air mass meter to fit and cleared the codes so far.
Do the other fault codes EML's sound familiar to anyone?

Thanks
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 22-02-2017, 21:19
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Crank sensor is likely the cause of most of the woes.

Remove, and clean any debris that is stuck to it. Check the pins in the plug are making good contact too and the cable hasn't been rubbing on the driveshaft. If that doesn't cure it then a new / good second hand one is required as it really won't run well without it working properly.

The first two codes are because you unplugged the MAF sensor (the air temp is integrated into it).
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 26-02-2017, 15:53 Thread Starter
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Yes I thought the Air Mass Sensor and the Air Temp sensor were related.
Moving cranks sensor wiring around seemed to induce the fault, so tried a second hand one on it today and fingers crossed it seems to have cured it.
New aftermarket Air Mass Meter fitted and erased the codes, but P1402 keeps reappearing, this is due to the removal of the EGR valve I think.
Is there a way to fool the ECU into thinking the EGR valve is still fitted.
The top left engine management lamp is off, but the one with the exclamation mark is still on?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 26-02-2017, 17:18
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It could also be an air leak somewhere on the inlet.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 28-02-2017, 21:47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biglad View Post
Yes I thought the Air Mass Sensor and the Air Temp sensor were related.
Moving cranks sensor wiring around seemed to induce the fault, so tried a second hand one on it today and fingers crossed it seems to have cured it.
New aftermarket Air Mass Meter fitted and erased the codes, but P1402 keeps reappearing, this is due to the removal of the EGR valve I think.
Is there a way to fool the ECU into thinking the EGR valve is still fitted.
The top left engine management lamp is off, but the one with the exclamation mark is still on?

I'm guessing this is a post '04 car as it'll be OBDII compliant then if EGR is disconnected then the warning light comes on (when the egr opens the ECU should sense a drop in airflow - if it doesn't it thinks the system is broken and so flags a faultcode. 2 ways to fix.
1. Get someone to remap it and map the EGR / MAF sensor out so it isn't used
2. Reconnect the EGR.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 15:16 Thread Starter
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Yeah its a 54 plate (not sure on the build date), so the chances are its OBDII.
Can't refit the EGR valve cos that went in the bin
What kind of hardware is needed to delete the EGR/MAF inputs?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 14:24
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Needs someone who can do you a maffless map. I would use Kris / Dakta as he is relatively local and I know him but others are available!
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