Which priorities for L series 2.0td ? - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 18:56 Thread Starter
Ed3
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Which priorities for L series 2.0td ?

Does anyone know the best things to work on first?

I have driven but not owned a diesel before. I picked up the Rover 45 2.0td 52 plate as a cheap run around. It has done 85K and been driven by a great grandmother, a clean car with lots of dings. Some bigger than others. So not a car to polish and admire. Bought it for peanuts so it is just a run about. But it now has a new MOT and four good fairly new tyres from the past owner. The seller was a friend of the granny and claimed he did not know about the timing belt but they had paid 120 fora new starter (so they did not know how to use a breakers yard) and the diesel filter looked brand new.

It is doing about 42 to 45 mpg in the 760 miles I have used it. As much of that was motorway and dual carriageway miles it seems thirsty to me and slow accelerating. I think it was doing about 50mpg on the motorway at 50mph.

The obvious expectation is things need cleaning and sorting. I have ordered a new Bosch MAF cheaply (27) as the one on there looks like cheap after market.

1) What should I clean first?
2) Should I do anything with leak off pipes and any seals?
3) Any tips for avoiding unnecessary expense on the timing belt? (It has done 85k)
4) Last week on an urban section of 120 mile motorway trip it misfired, lost power and puffed blue. I pulled over and gave it five minutes and then it was fine. Was that a sign something that needs doing?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 19:55
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42-45 mpg seems normal


Leak off pipes are cheap & easy to replace so if you're in any doubt about them just replace them.


If you don't know the history of the timing belts & you would rather not have to replace or rebuild the cylinder head then replace the belts as a matter of some urgency. (belt changes are 4 years or 48000 miles - whichevever comes sooner)

Last edited by rqt; 03-02-2017 at 20:00.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 19:58
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If it's been owned by a granny, it's possibly been driven like one. Change the oil/filter and take it for a good thrashing to clear out the cobwebs.

Only once the belts are done of course. This should be a priority.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 23:25 Thread Starter
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Can I stir things up?

The timing kits seem to be 170+. Not sure what else I need to change with it. So pity to change it if the one on there is good (and better than buying a cheap kit)

With 48k being the time to change timing belts that means it probably will have been done once already. So 48 x 2 = 96k miles less 85k miles on clock 11k miles to go.

I will do a check on whether the belt has hardened or been marked. If a car is parked up the belt goes hard. But this engines seems to have done low miles at low revs all along.

Using this method with an ecotec X20XEV 16v vauxhall which was supposed to be changed every 4 years or 40k miles for the timing belt (or at 25k for a hard revving boy racer), i bought a car on around 45k drove to around 85k over a ten/eleven year period, and took the belt kit off to do the HG, and when I changed the water pump which on those engines is usually the problem, but never renewed any of the belt kit (two pulleys a tensioner and belt) in ten/eleven years. And it looked very healthy after ten/eleven years.

I understand Vauxhall and Rover and similar car makers aimed for around 80k miles before changing the kit but failures in various driving conditions meant they "play safe" and half that to around 40k. With Vauxhall's if the kit does not go hard and brittle or tensioner go slack, or by bad luck the belt fray then the water pump is usually the problem. (But I changed the pump as it trickle leaked). Boy racers rev the engine much more so that shortens the life of the belt kit so they say change every 25k for boy racer driving.

But by driving low miles regularly at low revs and most important without hard sudden acceleration and carefully inspecting the kit, they can last much longer...... even the ten/eleven years with one of my previous cars.

I was very impressed with the photos I would take of the condition of the belt kit after 11 years. Very clean and in good condition like new. Gave me a smile.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 09:53
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45 mpg isnt to bad nor great. I manged that around town, but with you saying it has slow pick up, the maf could well be at fault. Personally I would think the maf you have ordered wont be great or last long. Cheap ones never last or do good, on these cars.

When I replaced mine a good few years ago I used the one off an Astra (just need to swap the housing over), link to it below. These seem to be far more reliable but aint to cheap, but cheaper than buying a rover one. Many on this forum before me have used it.

Bosch Air Flow Meter


As for the timing belt use DMGR (link beloew), cheap and good stuff. Save over 100 on the price you have said. And trust me get it ALL done, my tensioner went the other week on the motorway, took the whole engine with it.

https://www.dmgrs.co.uk


Then just a good service, not forgetting a coolant flush. That made a world of difference to mine. May be worth getting a NEW cap for the collant bottle as well, a well know problem, try DMGR again for that.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 15:18 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. The maf I have ordered is a new Bosch part number 0280218012 advertised for a rover 25/45 diesel. it seems difficult to tell the right part numbers.

Also this old Rover video of the L series being introduced into the Rover 600 says the L Series in the Rover 600 at 56 mph dopes 67 mpg. It would seem mine does 50 mpg at 50 mph so i will need to improve that:-


Last edited by Ed3; 04-02-2017 at 20:40.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 15:01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed3 View Post

It is doing about 42 to 45 mpg in the 760 miles I have used it. As much of that was motorway and dual carriageway miles it seems thirsty to me and slow accelerating. I think it was doing about 50mpg on the motorway at 50mph.

The obvious expectation is things need cleaning and sorting. I have ordered a new Bosch MAF cheaply (27) as the one on there looks like cheap after market.

1) What should I clean first?
2) Should I do anything with leak off pipes and any seals?
3) Any tips for avoiding unnecessary expense on the timing belt? (It has done 85k)
4) Last week on an urban section of 120 mile motorway trip it misfired, lost power and puffed blue. I pulled over and gave it five minutes and then it was fine. Was that a sign something that needs doing?

MPG is probably about right - a duff maf sensor will certainly not help matters

1. You can try cleaning the MAF sensor - you have nothing to lose -
2. If they aren't damp/wet then leave them well alone. If they are leaking then obviously replace them - they are a simple push fit
3. You can't avoid it - change it
4. Sounds like fuel starvation - I'd be suspicious especially if the fuel filter looks brand new.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 15:08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed3 View Post
Can I stir things up?

The timing kits seem to be 170+. Not sure what else I need to change with it. So pity to change it if the one on there is good (and better than buying a cheap kit)

With 48k being the time to change timing belts that means it probably will have been done once already. So 48 x 2 = 96k miles less 85k miles on clock 11k miles to go.

I will do a check on whether the belt has hardened or been marked. If a car is parked up the belt goes hard. But this engines seems to have done low miles at low revs all along.

Using this method with an ecotec X20XEV 16v vauxhall which was supposed to be changed every 4 years or 40k miles for the timing belt (or at 25k for a hard revving boy racer), i bought a car on around 45k drove to around 85k over a ten/eleven year period, and took the belt kit off to do the HG, and when I changed the water pump which on those engines is usually the problem, but never renewed any of the belt kit (two pulleys a tensioner and belt) in ten/eleven years. And it looked very healthy after ten/eleven years.

I understand Vauxhall and Rover and similar car makers aimed for around 80k miles before changing the kit but failures in various driving conditions meant they "play safe" and half that to around 40k. With Vauxhall's if the kit does not go hard and brittle or tensioner go slack, or by bad luck the belt fray then the water pump is usually the problem. (But I changed the pump as it trickle leaked). Boy racers rev the engine much more so that shortens the life of the belt kit so they say change every 25k for boy racer driving.

But by driving low miles regularly at low revs and most important without hard sudden acceleration and carefully inspecting the kit, they can last much longer...... even the ten/eleven years with one of my previous cars.

I was very impressed with the photos I would take of the condition of the belt kit after 11 years. Very clean and in good condition like new. Gave me a smile.
A belt kit is about 90 quid. That is two cambelts plus tensioners. If you must skimp then only change the cambelt (about 40 quid) and inspect the tensioner to see if it can be reused (rather than the fuel pump belt). If the fuel pump belt breaks the car just stops. If the cambelt breaks the engine will need major work (usually a new head at least - sometimes a full new engine)

You CANNOT judge a cambelt condition by looking at it. They all look clean and new even when I take them off after 100k miles. IT doesn't mean they'll do another 100 (mine is an early L series with longer belt change intervals and even that has the interval halved for arduous duty conditions - see below).

Granny driving is actually MUCH harder on cambelt than sitting at 100 on the motorway all day. The highest loads on a cambelt are starting and then the next highest are at idle. Granny driving is far more likely to break the belt than boyracer driving.

First thing I'd do after the cambelt is remove the boost hoses and look for leaks. They are very common and will hurt both fuel economy and turbo life (as well as performance!)
Next I'd clean the maf with alcohol - if the engine won't rev past 3900rpm when driven then the MAF is likely totally dead.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 15:35 Thread Starter
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Thanks E_T_V especially as it is the first time I have owned a diesel.

With fuel starvation where should I look? Is it big trouble near the injector pump? Or the more basic of tank, filter and fuel lines etc.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 19:34
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Check/change fuel filter
Blow back through feed pipe to tank to prove the pipe isn't getting blocked.
If the priming bulb is getting sucked flat in use then either it is faulty or the tank pickup/pipework is blocked.
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