Things to check when you get your new 2.0 L-Series Diesel home! :) - Page 4 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #61 of 92 (permalink) Old 29-04-2012, 20:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Under-the-ramps View Post
great stuff as just brought a CDT 2.0 last Sunday,,,I know it has the BMW engine but is that the L series engine?????
Hi.

The Diesel engined versions of the Rover 75 and MGZT used the BMW M47 Diesel Engine, with either 116 BHP or 131BHP output. The earlier cars were rated at 116BHP with the 131BHP rating coming in around late 2003 or thereby. There were no mechanical difference between the two version, just a re-map of the engine management system. 116BHP engines can be uprated if required.

Hope this clears up some miss understandings.

Regards
Telfer.
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post #62 of 92 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 21:59
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torque setting

i have a mg zr 2.0 td, just fitted new head gasket have tightened head down as per autodata instructions 30 nm - 65nm - + 90 deegree + 90 degree but was wondering if any one new the actuall final torque setting of the head bolts as when finished. if that makes sense. as i did not have a angular gauge when doing the job.
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post #63 of 92 (permalink) Old 01-07-2012, 23:15 Thread Starter
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Just to add to this - I now supply the full L series cambelt kit at a large discount to what you'd usually pay - most boxed kits are 140 upwards.

For 69.99 I can supply the 112 tooth belt (28mm width) and both the tensioner and idler.

See here for more information: L series cambelt kits
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post #64 of 92 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 09:31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyprice4004 View Post
Just to add to this - I now supply the full L series cambelt kit at a large discount to what you'd usually pay - most boxed kits are 140 upwards.

For 69.99 I can supply the 112 tooth belt (28mm width) and both the tensioner and idler.

See here for more information: L series cambelt kits
My 45 (W Reg) Diesel fuel injection pump just gone u/s.

Do you do these as well?

I'm finding it difficult to find one & at some prices qouted on ebay, might have to scrap the car!
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post #65 of 92 (permalink) Old 29-07-2012, 21:29
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post #66 of 92 (permalink) Old 19-08-2012, 23:15
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Smile

thanks a lot

its helped me a lot
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post #67 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-01-2013, 18:07 Thread Starter
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Added info RE floodwater and bent con rods.
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post #68 of 92 (permalink) Old 27-01-2013, 16:04
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Hi I have the 2.0 Mg ZR, it seems to be overheating and losing slight water through the header tank?
I have had the head gasket changed so i have no idea what is wrong can anyone give me some ideas?
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post #69 of 92 (permalink) Old 15-05-2013, 23:04
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Hey guys..

I got a streetwise diesel.
It smokes pretty bad, after reading this you say it's likely to be the turbo? It's on 140k so not low mileage.

Also it seems flat, I turned up waste gate 2 turns, but still seems under powered, then I blanked off EGR, but still not gain. Noticed it won't rev past 3.5-4k so maybe my MAF is faulty to.

What you suggest???
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post #70 of 92 (permalink) Old 16-05-2013, 10:08
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Check for split intercooler hose first.
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post #71 of 92 (permalink) Old 16-05-2013, 10:10 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGZR-TDI-Mk2 View Post
Hey guys..

I got a streetwise diesel.
It smokes pretty bad, after reading this you say it's likely to be the turbo? It's on 140k so not low mileage.

Also it seems flat, I turned up waste gate 2 turns, but still seems under powered, then I blanked off EGR, but still not gain. Noticed it won't rev past 3.5-4k so maybe my MAF is faulty to.

What you suggest???
Sounds like a split hose to me too - check them both carefully.

Also possible MAF issue, also check the wiring to injector 1 (cambelt side) for breaks
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post #72 of 92 (permalink) Old 14-09-2013, 10:59
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Bleeding cooling system

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Originally Posted by Rik420SDi View Post
They do take a while to warm up - 4-5 miles is a good time, trust me. There is no coolent bleed screw as such. To drop the lot, undo bottom rad hose - to drain just a little, undo the header tank return with engine running and coolent cold. The level in the tank will drop, top it up with neat antifreeze; thats what I've done on my Rover Dervs with good results.

Leave the lid off the tank and squeeze top and lower hoses. This helps push out the air bubbles. Then do the same with the engine running. Obviously not when the pipes are hot.
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post #73 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 22:06 Thread Starter
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Original post updated with new links to Shop items.
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post #74 of 92 (permalink) Old 03-05-2014, 17:21
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Thank you

As a recent owner of a Y reg Rover 25 2.0 diesel. It was smoking a lot and had a lot of difficulty getting to any reasonable speed. I started through the list after changing the oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, and brakes. I found a 3 inch split in the boost pipe from the bottom of the inter cooler to the inlet manifold.
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post #75 of 92 (permalink) Old 11-06-2014, 10:00
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L series belt

Hi I hope you can help I have a 2000 reg L series diesel with a ripped drive belt. My question is the power steering pump appears to be on the end of the alternator but what is the pulley directly under the alternator because its very stiff on mine and might have caused the belt to rip.
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post #76 of 92 (permalink) Old 11-06-2014, 10:23
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Pump on the end of the alternator is the vacuum pump (for the brakes).

Other pulleys are aircon (if you have it), and PAS. The PAS pump also has the water pump mounted on the back of it.

Shredded drive belts can often cause cam belt to snap so fix it don't ignore it!
The cause of the shredding is often a failed tensioner (The bearings inside can fail - but can be replaced without replacing the whole tensioner which is quite expensive).
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post #77 of 92 (permalink) Old 17-06-2014, 21:01
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hi

Quote:
Originally Posted by SDI_Tim View Post
Good call on it being a good idea changing the air filter sooner than 20,000 miles, I always think that the air and fuel filter intervals are the wrong way round, on mine I dissected a fuel filter that had been in use for 1 year, and it was spotless, I leave it for 2 now.

Could you also add something about MAF sensors? something like... if the car (newer models, 25/45/ZR/ZS) lacks power below at low revs then suddenly comes alive around 2500rpm , a new MAF sensor, cleaning it, and/or MAFAM could be the cure, C/O Rover Ron. If the car hits a brick wall at around 3500rpm and won't rev any further, the MAF is totally gone, disconnected, or the wiring or connection to it is suspect. A car with a healthy MAF should pick up in power cleanly at around 1750rpm.

Another one.... could you mention that if the fuel pump timing is out, then the car can take a long time to start on a cold engine, 30-60 seconds not uncommon, and will then start fine all day long until the car completely cools down. Often caused by not using the right tools during a fuel belt/cambelt change. Maybe you could add this in the glowplugs section?

Hello I have the same problem what should I do?
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post #78 of 92 (permalink) Old 17-06-2014, 21:13
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If it's poor starting you mean pump timing, you could have a read through this thread if you're good at DIY work on the car: http://google.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=644161

If it's the MAF problem, do a search, there's loads of threads on it.
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post #79 of 92 (permalink) Old 17-06-2014, 21:38
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I have a Rover 25 2.0 diesel suddenly following lacks power in low revs then suddenly comes alive around 2500rpm and white smoke issues.
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post #80 of 92 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 20:06
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Thanks for that guide, there's a lot of info in it (most of which I'd never have thought of by myself)

Quote:
The earlier engines have a 7 Year / 84,000 mile interval.
The later engines have a 4 Year / 48,000 mile interval.
How do you tell if your engine is an early or a late one? My car is a Rover 220 SDi from 1999 if that helps.

Thanks
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