Things to check when you get your new 2.0 L-Series Diesel home! :) - Page 5 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #81 of 92 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 20:14
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SD or SDi is an "early" engine - only the ones fitted with a VP30 pump are considered "late" engines
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post #82 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-09-2014, 14:40
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Thanks for the explanation Dastardly-Dan. Now I'm not sure I can tell the difference between a VP30 and a VP37 pump unless it's engraved on it, so I'll take your word for it: I have an "early" engine
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post #83 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-09-2014, 18:05
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Rover 200/400 = SD or SDi

Rover 25, 45, MGZR MGZS = late
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post #84 of 92 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 21:18
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Can this be added to the list - check bottom radiator hose gets warm.

Owners of the l-series should IMO be regularly checking their bottom radiator hose to ensure it is getting warm/hot on a long run. If it is not your thermostat is stuck closed and the top of the engine will be suffering excessive heat build-up.

I'm on my second 45 that has always had a cold bottom rad hose which tells me the thermostat is stuck shut meaning hot water is not being allowed to flow through the radiator to cool. I may be wrong and am about to replace the thermostat but I would say the bottom hose should not be stone cold all of the time?

My first 45 suffered two HGF's from the excess heat caused by stuck shut thermostat (removed it and tested it, it did not open) and this current car is steaming from the expansion bottle and burst a radiator (plastic end) on the m25. It also melted through new leak off pipes after a number of weeks. Because the l-series engine runs cool I think a stuck-closed thermostat can show no obvious signs for a long time especially in the cooler months except maybe the cooling fans regularly kicking in. But the excess heat around the top of the engine will eventually do damage though eg hgf. So a quick test (if you have no engine tray still fitted) is a quick feel of the bottom rad hose every week. Everyone likes a quick feel anyway so it's no hardship.
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post #85 of 92 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 22:08
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Steve, as an added precaution, I had a stone cold bottom hose after a slow motorway run at 60-70mph, and the OBD temperature was reading well within safe limits, about 90 Celsius. Car did have HGF under heavy load around that time to complicate my explanation, but when I tested it was not overheating (early stages of HFG and gentle drive). When the car was overheating the OBD reading would shoot up. It it might be worth someone verifying whether a healthy L series car will have a cold bottom hose on a gentle motorway run, backed up by an OBD reading to ensure the thermostat is opening and keeping the temeprature about 90 Celsius.

I am thinking that as the L series puts so little heat into the coolant under normal gentle running, so even with a working thermostat, it may only need to open a trickle to provide a small amount of cold water from the radiator, so the rad bottom hose will stay cold.

A stuck 'stat will give a cold bottom hose too, but I think due to the low heat generated by the L series under light load, being a DI Diesel, a fully functioning cooling system might need so little coolant flow through the rad on a slow cruise, that it will give a cold bottom hose too.
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post #86 of 92 (permalink) Old 23-10-2014, 22:54
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i guess the thing to consider is that the stat is marked 85 deg yet i understand is the presure type which opens under heavy coolant flow (think rpm) i recently had a nasty overheat scenario with an empty coolant tank ( yes i check it regular) followed by water consumption, start the h.g. job tomorrow.
however up the same bit of country hillside i had the overheat a gentle climb at 50mph has seen 98+ dgc in 5th on obd , same climb in 4th was 3-4 dgc cooler, methinks perhaps even with a failed stat the pressure relief allows flow at higher rpm hence masking the failed stat. tomorrow i will put the both old and new stats in a saucepan side by side and have a look .
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post #87 of 92 (permalink) Old 24-10-2014, 19:06
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Not so sure about the stat relying on coolant pressure/flow to open.

At higher rpm and low lower throttle the engine will have lower gas temperatures and more cool air will be flowing through it, so this could explain the slightly lower operating temperature.

I have noticed that about 1500rpm and full throttle for a prolonged period, seems to put a lot of heat into the coolant, e.g. on a long hill in a 40mph limit, in 5th. I can see the Scangauge showing a few degrees hotter than at any other time. I think it's the gas/exhaust temperature at it's highest in this type of scenario, and some of the heat goes into the coolant. There is low flow through the radiator due to the low engine / water pump speed, and low airflow too, so this all causes it to run a bit hotter, I think. With a dodgy stat the extra heat in from the engine in those conditions will cause an even greater heat rise in those condiitons, with less flow through the radiator to cool it all down.

Have you tried a new stat before doing the head gasket? If the stat is causing boiling and water loss you might be lucky that the headgasket is still okay, if it hasn't overheated massively.
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post #88 of 92 (permalink) Old 25-10-2014, 18:21
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update,
didnt get as far as the head, found likley issues on the way in
stat was manky and didnt act like the new one side by side in a pan of water,
home made pressure tester on the water system showed the cap was fine and opening at the correct pressure it also opened up the pinhole in one of the pipes under the fuel pump, had a nightmare with a badly made poor quality aftermarket water pump not sealing properly in the housing,
i have re built with the original pump and car is behaving normally no coolant loss at the moment. it was never that bad before 100 miles max/min
still gets warmest on a long gentle climb.
i havent gone with the thrash test yet.
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post #89 of 92 (permalink) Old 26-10-2014, 19:24
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You didn't hang about before getting your hands dirty since your last post. Hope it is okay now.
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post #90 of 92 (permalink) Old 26-10-2014, 21:37
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hard driving round town today, all seems well, the car is needed all the time for travelling to ice rinks in relation to the family ice hockey hobby, season has just begun and this weekend was the only free weekend til christmas hence i lined up armed with all the bits for a full head job, quite glad it didnt get that bad. extra parts will go on the shelf and im sure will come in handy with 2 mg diesels at our house.
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post #91 of 92 (permalink) Old 30-08-2016, 00:35
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Just got 45 2.0td and rusty steering pipes near pulley

I have just got a Rover 45 2.0td 2002 and am checking everything. Before reading the MG Rover forum I had found the rusty pipes near the crank pulley and wire brushed and greased them while I work out what to do. It seems much will clean up and I need to replace only the pipe from the power steering pump to the rear of the subframe.

My question is whether there are two type of power steering pipe available to fit doing the same job. One that goes from the steering pump and under the engine to the rear of the subframe, like mine and so prone to rust. And a possibly later type that goes from the steering pump up and back over the top route to the rear subframe by the pipe going from the steering pump to near the top of the timing belt cover.

Would anyone know if I can get a later type pipe that goes the top route (off maybe a Rover 25 2.0td) to put on my Rover 45 2.0td?

Also if just the first section of metal pipe has rusted, (about 12 inches between the pump and rubber section) can I get a hydraulic firm to make one up?
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post #92 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-12-2016, 06:03
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is it possible to add two more items,

A] Check the water colour. Dirty brown indicates more water than Glycol coolant. A common fault on all second hand cars.
According to the service manual I have this should be a 50/ 50 mix. To clean, drain the water from the lower radiator hose.re-tighten, refill with clean water, add a dish washing tablet to the tank then take a 5 - 10 k drive. You will be surprised how much gunk is removed. Flush until clean water is seen. Drain of 3,5 lt then top up with 90% glycol concentrate. Cooling will be much improved.

B] Difficult start when cold and hot / warm means air in the system. Do not replace your primer bulb until you do this. Remove the under tray. Prime until the bulb is hard and hold squeeze for a time. Wait two minutes then prime, again holding pressure. Check under the car for diesel leaks. Please note at no other time is there a diesel spill. This is only after prime and never an immediate easy to see leak.

In my case after months of difficult start and changing everything suggested I by chance one day saw a puddle of diesel as I reversed. After I primed the pump I was then was called away to re-prime on my return. I then did a though check after removing water pipes etc to get to the underside side of the pump. I found that the timing solenoid seal had failed.

c] According to those in the know, running the VP 30 dry may cause a problem. This when prolonged dry cranking takes place on start up. I read that the VP 30 is a two stage pump that is susceptible to the vanes at the low pressure end failing / sticking.
A very expensive replacement. The symptom is straight forward. The engine tries to start then dies. On next start it fires and is fine. However if this happens the pump vanes are failing. The moral - Avoid constant cranking or running out of fuel. Do not be lazy if you have a start problem prime your engine if you have a difficult start to keep it wet.

I hope this helps someone.
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