General How To.... Diagnose a K Series Head Gasket Failure - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 264 (permalink) Old 08-07-2008, 19:08
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Originally Posted by SnapdragonGT View Post
As several others have said, this should be made into a sticky, well done for the write up 1955diesel, and also for your contributions, John.
Indeed; I have moved this excellent thread into the "How To" forum.....should have been done yonks ago!!

Well done to 1955 & John.
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post #22 of 264 (permalink) Old 14-08-2008, 02:26
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Excellent guide... well done.
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post #23 of 264 (permalink) Old 22-08-2008, 11:23
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HGF. Or is it...?

My car boiled it's water (big clouds of steam through the rear vents, visible boiling in the expansion bottle) a few days ago. No obvious overheating when it happened (temperature gauge had started to rise before I could get safely off the main road I was on but I hope not high enough for long enough to do damage!) but both the remaining coolant and the oil still look perfectly clean - I just kind of assumed this was likely to be HGF but after reading this thread I'm starting to wonder...

Worth topping the coolant up, bleeding the system, replacing the filler cap (and possibly getting the thermostat looked at if that doesn't help) or should I carry on assuming the worst? Anything else I ought to look at?

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post #24 of 264 (permalink) Old 22-08-2008, 11:50
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Originally Posted by BigBadBikerCats View Post
My car boiled it's water (big clouds of steam through the rear vents, visible boiling in the expansion bottle) a few days ago. No obvious overheating when it happened (temperature gauge had started to rise before I could get safely off the main road I was on but I hope not high enough for long enough to do damage!) but both the remaining coolant and the oil still look perfectly clean - I just kind of assumed this was likely to be HGF but after reading this thread I'm starting to wonder...

Worth topping the coolant up, bleeding the system, replacing the filler cap (and possibly getting the thermostat looked at if that doesn't help) or should I carry on assuming the worst? Anything else I ought to look at?

--
JG
I would consider looking at that expansion tank cap, once they go they don't hold the pressure and allow the coolant to boil.

Top up, replace cap and bleed and take it for a good run (keep an eye on the temp gauge) and on return leave it to idle until the fans come on (you could unplug the coolant temp sensor quickly to make sure the fans work)
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post #25 of 264 (permalink) Old 23-08-2008, 11:09
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sorry to butt in.

Hi Guys.

So sorry to butt in like this(newbie) but I was wondering if I someone could advise me as to where I can obtain a new heat shield (runs along top of the exhaust) for a ZT 190+
Thanks
Sorry again for crashing your post.
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post #26 of 264 (permalink) Old 23-08-2008, 18:31 Thread Starter
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Hi Guys.

So sorry to butt in like this(newbie) but I was wondering if I someone could advise me as to where I can obtain a new heat shield (runs along top of the exhaust) for a ZT 190+
Thanks
Sorry again for crashing your post.
You need to start your own thread in the correct section. No one will answer it here.

Mods - if the above post gets moved, please delete this one.
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post #27 of 264 (permalink) Old 28-08-2008, 20:52
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I know my engine isn't a K Series , i have citroen zx 1.4. Alloy engine and head. It has oil in coolant and a oil leak onto the block but no other issues. Do you think it may have HGF?

Chris
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post #28 of 264 (permalink) Old 28-08-2008, 21:20
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It has oil in coolant.

Chris
.................................
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post #29 of 264 (permalink) Old 29-08-2008, 01:33
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And mayo! but its been like that for 6k no issues had an oil change and coolant change. Is there anywhere else oil can make its way into the coolant before i change the head gasket.
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post #30 of 264 (permalink) Old 29-08-2008, 01:58
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Originally Posted by m0gsi View Post
And mayo! but its been like that for 6k no issues had an oil change and coolant change. Is there anywhere else oil can make its way into the coolant before i change the head gasket.
You still got that Chris? I thought that it was just that rad cap?
Has the coolant gone all ****ty again?
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post #31 of 264 (permalink) Old 29-08-2008, 13:38
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Well he wasn't sure because he couldn't pressurise the system but was 90% on the headgasket. I've had a look and it is gone. Headgasket will arrive on monday. Barry will do it for 30 but i might do it myself doesn't look too hard and is a good thing to learn.

Chris
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post #32 of 264 (permalink) Old 30-08-2008, 16:54
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Originally Posted by empsburna View Post
I would consider looking at that expansion tank cap, once they go they don't hold the pressure and allow the coolant to boil.

Top up, replace cap and bleed and take it for a good run (keep an eye on the temp gauge) and on return leave it to idle until the fans come on (you could unplug the coolant temp sensor quickly to make sure the fans work)
It seems I am a lucky boy...

One expansion cap, a couple of litres of coolant, and a good deal of fiddling with bleed screws/nipples/whatever later I've had the car idling at full temperature (fans on) for a few minutes, taken it for a cautious 20 minute trundle (which turned into a somewhat less cautious full-on blat about 10 minutes in - I'd forgotten just how much fun the 'F was after driving my wifes ZT diesel around for a couple of weeks!), spent a few minutes in what passes for traffic here in Braintree, let the car idle again for a few minurs until the fans come on and there's no steam, no coolant loss, and oil & water temperatures are sane and stable.

I'll be carrying a piece of wood around with me for the specific purposes of touching it every few minutes but it seems I might have got away with it...

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post #33 of 264 (permalink) Old 14-09-2008, 19:32
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how do you know if you have a k series engine? i have a rover 25 impression 53 plate.
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post #34 of 264 (permalink) Old 14-09-2008, 20:06
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how do you know if you have a k series engine? i have a rover 25 impression 53 plate.
ur engine is a k series mate.....
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post #35 of 264 (permalink) Old 14-09-2008, 20:43
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thanks....

is this enevitable? can anything be done to delay or stop it from happening?
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post #36 of 264 (permalink) Old 15-09-2008, 11:19
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Hi All,
After experiencing some overheating problems over the weekend I'm hoping my HG hasn't gone!
I have a few questions that might not be in the right place here so apologise if they have been answered previously -

If the worse case scenario has happened and I have the gasket changed am I correct in thinking that the cam belts need doing at the same time? I think I also read that the water pump needs changing at the same time???

If I fit a new uprated gasket - steel dowels etc what is the chance of another failure? Does the uprated head gasket sets stop this from happening again? (I'm trying to work out the cost implications as I like the car and don't want to get rid of it but don't want to be doing this every few thousand miles!)

I'm hoping its just a combination of the cap needing replacement and a faulty fan (not cutting in). I think I read previously you can disconnect something to test whether the fan is functional? How do I go about this? Sorry, I'm about as much use as a chocolate teapot when it comes to mechanical things! I've not seen any creamy deposits and the header looks clean. Can anyone advise why the temp gauge did not show any overheating when I had copious amounts of steam coming from the expansion tank?

Sorry for the length of this post but thought I'd get it all out in one go rather than numerous posts!

Any info is greatly received

Cheers

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post #37 of 264 (permalink) Old 15-09-2008, 13:07 Thread Starter
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It is wise to replace the manifold gaskets, cam belt, tensioner and water pump at the same time as the head. Most of the work has to be done anyway to remove the head.

A replacement head gasket should last at least as long as the original if the job is done correctly. The MLS gasket was introduced by Land Rover as an improvement over the original, but hard data is difficult to obtain. Repeat failures are often due to the job being done incorrectly or the original reason for failure not being addressed. For belt-and-braces, you should also fit the Land Rover strengthened oil rail.

If your filler cap is losing pressure, the system will boil even though the gauge reads normal. There are parts of the engine around the exhaust ports that are well above the normal boiling point and need pressure to prevent this from happening.

If you pull the lead from the temperature sensor (in the water outlet elbow on the front of the head), the fan should come on. If not, check the fuses first.
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post #38 of 264 (permalink) Old 15-09-2008, 15:03
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Thanks for that, I'm hoping its just a case of cap and fan as previously mentioned, the gauge is always just below middle which was throwing me a bit, I assumed it would read high if the water was boiling. It happened yesterday when it was really hot weather and I'd been pootling around town for about 20 mins which makes me think its the fan.

Can you advise the best place to get a replacement cap? Is it as simple as a quick visit to Halfrauds?

Lastly, does the diesel engine suffer from this problem as I'm eying up a 400 SLD and don't want to be faced with this problem if I change!!

Thanks again for the info and quick reply!
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post #39 of 264 (permalink) Old 15-09-2008, 20:55 Thread Starter
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Never bought one myself, but you could try Halfords, Rimmer Brothers, X-Part.

Put a post in the diesel section if you want information about them. They would love to tell you.
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post #40 of 264 (permalink) Old 16-09-2008, 07:53
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Great, thanks!
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