How do I - change Inlet manifold gasket? (K Series) - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 121 (permalink) Old 14-01-2009, 00:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zr16o View Post
mart_roch, if your car is the zr 160 then you will have the vvc engine...and my temp gauge never reads on half way line, its always a bit below, this is normal though apparently so no worries there
Thanks thats always nice too know that other ZRs are like that! Thanks and just read that the 160 doesnt have the plastic manifold and has a extra belt on the right so i know i have a 120, a MG ZR+ 120. You would think the log book would state that :S and rito of to buy a GREEN gasket lol

thanks
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post #22 of 121 (permalink) Old 31-01-2009, 20:52
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hey im new 2 this forum but i was wondering if someone could help me. i have a major water leak on my 214si, it seems to be coming from the back of the inlet manifold by the injectors. its not a pipe so im wondering if it could be my inlet manifold gasket. any help would be appreciated. thanx
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post #23 of 121 (permalink) Old 31-01-2009, 20:53
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Smile water leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover_King View Post
STEP 7 - cleaning up

You need to clean the mating surfaces of the manifold and the engine otherwise the new gasket may not seal. I used an old rag (cut up t-shirt), a tooth brush and some white spirit. There was also some stuck on debris on mine in a couple of places - so I gently used some emery paper.

Here you can see the left side of the picture with the clean mating surface, compared to the right side of the picture - uncleaned:



You will also need to clean the 'grooves' in the manifold - again to make sure the new gasket seals. A brush is best for this.

STEP 8 - fitting new gasket

The new gasket you will need is the modified version - green in colour. MG Rover part number: LKJ101110SLP

Unlike the old gasket, the new green one doesn't matter which way round it goes, both sides are the same. As long as you line up the rubber 'lugs' at the bottom into the appropriate grooves on the manifold then you cant go wrong.

Start of at one end gently pushing the new gasket into the groove in the manifold, it will seem easy at first but once its round 1 port it will start to require a bit of persausion and stretching to fit. I worked my way round from top then round the bottom. Be sure it fits nicely into the grooves in the manifold:





Once you have done this, double check that there is no grit, dirt or foreign objects on the mating surface. Now you can now slowly and gently slide the manifold onto the studs.

Keep the manifold firm up against the engine untill you have got a couple of nuts in to secure it. (Pulling it away again may disturb the gasket)

Tighten the nuts and bolts of the manifold back up in sequence, starting from the middle. A torque wrench is very usefull - wants to be 25NM.

You can now re-connect everything you disconnected, remember to check all hoses are snug and circlips are tight (wouldnt want a coolant hose poping off whilst driving!) and re-check every thing again. Remember to clip the hose of the air filter back to the throttle body (dont want that coming off else the engine will suck in unfiltered air)

Im no expert at bleeding the system. But remove the bleed screw on the metal coolant pipe under the distributor and have a friend SLOWLY poor the coolant into the expansion tank. A funnel is helpfull. And make sure you have a constant flow into the tank (dont pour some in, wait to drain completely, and pour more else you can get air in system). When there is a nice flow of coolant coming out the bleed hole then nip it back up. Put the heater on full, run the engine with the cap off for a few minutes whilst squeezing hoses. Remember to put the cap back on the tank! Let the engine warm up keeping an eye on the coolant level and the temperature guage. Keep the blowers on - they should warm up nicely.




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hey im new 2 this forum but i was wondering if someone could help me. i have a major water leak on my 214si, it seems to be coming from the back of the inlet manifold by the injectors. its not a pipe so im wondering if it could be my inlet manifold gasket. any help would be appreciated. thanx
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post #24 of 121 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 07:19
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It could well be, but you are in the best position to judge.
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post #25 of 121 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 12:13
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ta, will check today. couldn't be anythink serious (expensive) could it, ive not long changed the head gasket and the leak is coming from well above the head.
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post #26 of 121 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 18:34
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Smile head crack

i changed the inlet manifold gasket and still the leak consists. i believe i could have a small crack in the head were the water passes. ive been told i can seal this temporarily buy using a sealent called liquid metal. would this work. advise would be great

thanx
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post #27 of 121 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 19:32
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i have had a slight leak at the back of the engine for ages now... have changed water pump head gasket thermostat and houseing rad cap!!! i can notice some water on the ledge at the back of the engine by the thermostat houseing its an inconsitant leak, which is making it hard to find! could the manifold gasket be the problem?
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post #28 of 121 (permalink) Old 14-02-2009, 00:02
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Is it possible to physically see any damage or failure on the original gasket or is it a case of change it and see?

The reason I ask is that I'm having a few problems at the moment (likely HGF) but I'm going to remove the inlet manifold first to check. I can then either buy just the new IMG or if it isn't the cause I'll buy a HG kit with the IMG included and fit the new gasket on reassembly.
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post #29 of 121 (permalink) Old 14-02-2009, 00:16
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Can't say I have ever seen evidence of shrinkage etc. on the gasket.

The obvious signs would be staining left behind where a possible coolant leak occured.

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post #30 of 121 (permalink) Old 14-02-2009, 00:27
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I thought that may well be the case.

I'm struggling with the car at the moment, I've just started my own thread.
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post #31 of 121 (permalink) Old 22-02-2009, 03:49
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Hi R-K, Can you advise if it is absolutely necessary to drain the coolant as I serviced my cooling system just as the bad weather hit us. I am considering changing mine as frankly, I am terrified it will lead to HGF. I have a 620Sli auto and decided to get a 2003 MG ZS+120 as a change. There is absolutely no sign of any prob with the ZS (just got to do the rear brakes) but I can't enjoy it cause I am constantly checking the temp guage although it did a 300 mile trip when I bought it no problem just a month ago. Thats why I'm holding onto my 620 as it really is one of the best cars I have owned. Don't get me wrong I like the ZS as the power is awesome and it does seem to turn heads (this is not the reason I bought it). I have noticed it is slighty smoky/steamy when you rev her up and today I topped up the coolant to the max mark.Took about half a litre. Even though there is no signs of a prob I still want to do the inlet manifold, so as I have babbled enough on this post, again, do I need to drain all the coolant. Thanks.
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post #32 of 121 (permalink) Old 22-02-2009, 13:49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mytwocents View Post
Hi R-K, Can you advise if it is absolutely necessary to drain the coolant as I serviced my cooling system just as the bad weather hit us. I am considering changing mine as frankly, I am terrified it will lead to HGF. I have a 620Sli auto and decided to get a 2003 MG ZS+120 as a change. There is absolutely no sign of any prob with the ZS (just got to do the rear brakes) but I can't enjoy it cause I am constantly checking the temp guage although it did a 300 mile trip when I bought it no problem just a month ago. Thats why I'm holding onto my 620 as it really is one of the best cars I have owned. Don't get me wrong I like the ZS as the power is awesome and it does seem to turn heads (this is not the reason I bought it). I have noticed it is slighty smoky/steamy when you rev her up and today I topped up the coolant to the max mark.Took about half a litre. Even though there is no signs of a prob I still want to do the inlet manifold, so as I have babbled enough on this post, again, do I need to drain all the coolant. Thanks.
It would be advisable to drain the coolant.

Quote:
Well worth draining coolant - I didn't and got a couple of cylinders full of water. Removed spark plugs and cranked engine over before starting it to empty cylinders. No problem, just a little more hassle to remove coils, plugs etc.
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post #33 of 121 (permalink) Old 10-03-2009, 22:48
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For this job do you have to drain the coolant before??

Without draining the coolant by seperating the manifold would this create an air lock when re-fittal?
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post #34 of 121 (permalink) Old 13-03-2009, 01:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRover007 View Post
For this job do you have to drain the coolant before??

Without draining the coolant by seperating the manifold would this create an air lock when re-fittal?
See the post that I made directly above yours.
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post #35 of 121 (permalink) Old 13-03-2009, 22:10
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See the post that I made directly above yours.
Haha cheers ! i cant believe i didnt see that.

I must of just read the guide on page 1 and pressed reply.

Rep given to you.
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post #36 of 121 (permalink) Old 19-03-2009, 17:08
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Brilliant thread any recommendations for products to flush the system dont think mine was done very well when the head gasket was done heard people putting in dishwasher tablets a few days before hand! Does this work or is it like cracking an egg in a leaking radiator?
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post #37 of 121 (permalink) Old 21-03-2009, 03:00
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is it necessary to change the nuts to the new type?
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post #38 of 121 (permalink) Old 21-03-2009, 03:03
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actually as the technical bulletin was 1999 i would assume the 2001 25 would have the newer bolts
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post #39 of 121 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 11:08
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Cool thanks

thank god you put this on here i've done it in 40mins. down the road they wanted £120 saved me a load thanks again
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post #40 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010, 18:26
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Had a go at this today because
was loosing coolant - not too much
heating only hot when revved hard (?air lock)
steam in exhaust - more than normal
running on 3 cylinders on start up
Of course the garage said HG but I read the HG diagnostics thread and concluded it was the inlet manifold gasket (what the heck is coolant doing near there anyway) All went smoothly but just a few points slightly different from the main guide.
On my 2001 1.8 45 the lower fixings are 13mm nuts not 10mm bolts
I removed the idle air control valve to get better access to the fuel line connection
Just a few other things I noticed
  • the coolant came out clear and clean with not even a film of oil
  • The gasket was a green one because had HG replaced some years ago
  • Couldnít see any damage to the gasket so Iím a bit worried it may still be HG.
Didnít manage to finish the job as the screws holding the idle air control valve were rusty and needed replacing and I didnít have any anti-freeze. So I should be able to finish tomorrow.
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