How do I - change Inlet manifold gasket? (K Series) - Page 3 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #41 of 121 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 18:42
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Well, managed to finish (the inlet manifold gasket), today in between the rain and refilled and bled the coolant. Started with a bit of a splutter but settled down quickly and drove well. Problem is that the heater is not working just as before. Cold air only at normal driving but if engine revved hard there is plenty of heat, but soon gets cold again after normal driving.

I'm a bit nonplussed as there was no hint of oil in the coolant and no mayo in the oil. Can the head gasket fail in such a way that coolant is going into the cylinders but with no other failure? Or could this be a water pump problem?

I have read a thread with a similar problem, but no-one posted the solution. Iíll try a new thread.
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post #42 of 121 (permalink) Old 20-03-2010, 01:23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover_King View Post
STEP 7 - cleaning up

You need to clean the mating surfaces of the manifold and the engine otherwise the new gasket may not seal. I used an old rag (cut up t-shirt), a tooth brush and some white spirit. There was also some stuck on debris on mine in a couple of places - so I gently used some emery paper.

Here you can see the left side of the picture with the clean mating surface, compared to the right side of the picture - uncleaned:



You will also need to clean the 'grooves' in the manifold - again to make sure the new gasket seals. A brush is best for this.

STEP 8 - fitting new gasket

The new gasket you will need is the modified version - green in colour. MG Rover part number: LKJ101110SLP

Unlike the old gasket, the new green one doesn't matter which way round it goes, both sides are the same. As long as you line up the rubber 'lugs' at the bottom into the appropriate grooves on the manifold then you cant go wrong.

Start of at one end gently pushing the new gasket into the groove in the manifold, it will seem easy at first but once its round 1 port it will start to require a bit of persausion and stretching to fit. I worked my way round from top then round the bottom. Be sure it fits nicely into the grooves in the manifold:





Once you have done this, double check that there is no grit, dirt or foreign objects on the mating surface. Now you can now slowly and gently slide the manifold onto the studs.

Keep the manifold firm up against the engine untill you have got a couple of nuts in to secure it. (Pulling it away again may disturb the gasket)

Tighten the nuts and bolts of the manifold back up in sequence, starting from the middle. A torque wrench is very usefull - wants to be 25NM.

You can now re-connect everything you disconnected, remember to check all hoses are snug and circlips are tight (wouldnt want a coolant hose poping off whilst driving!) and re-check every thing again. Remember to clip the hose of the air filter back to the throttle body (dont want that coming off else the engine will suck in unfiltered air)

Im no expert at bleeding the system. But remove the bleed screw on the metal coolant pipe under the distributor and have a friend SLOWLY poor the coolant into the expansion tank. A funnel is helpfull. And make sure you have a constant flow into the tank (dont pour some in, wait to drain completely, and pour more else you can get air in system). When there is a nice flow of coolant coming out the bleed hole then nip it back up. Put the heater on full, run the engine with the cap off for a few minutes whilst squeezing hoses. Remember to put the cap back on the tank! Let the engine warm up keeping an eye on the coolant level and the temperature guage. Keep the blowers on - they should warm up nicely.


A1 POST VERY WELL MIGHT HAVE POINTED ME IN ADIRECTION I HADNT THOUGHT OF YET NOT BEEN AN ACTIVE MOTOR BRAIN FOR A WHILE SO GLAD OF YOUR POST KEEP UP GOOD WORK FOLKS
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post #43 of 121 (permalink) Old 21-03-2010, 00:19
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Hi Jal - Yes I 'm fairly meticulous at doing these jobs and cleaned up both surfaces. Anyway I'm still watching carefully. Car needs about a cup of water a day and its coming out of the exhaust. No overheating - no oil in coolant - no mayo
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post #44 of 121 (permalink) Old 23-03-2010, 18:47
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I changed my IMG today and managed it in about an hour or so...

Just wanted to ask, i also had a paper gasket between the rubber gasket and the back of the engine. Is this normaly there ? (see attachment)

Also, there was quite a big buildup around one of the coolant holes. could his indicate anything serious? there was no oil or mayo in my coolant when i drained it. need to keep an eye on it now as i was toppig up the coolant every week at least.
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post #45 of 121 (permalink) Old 23-03-2010, 19:39
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Paper gasket should not be fitted. That was for aluminium manifolds.

Yes, crud does build up in this area and tends to block the jiggle valve.
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post #46 of 121 (permalink) Old 31-03-2010, 17:48
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Hey cheers for this guide, I fixed my car just after I bought it using this ( seemed when the HG was replaced just before it was sold, they didn't clean the contact areas or inside the manifold at all )
Other than the awkward angles it was much easier than I thought

I had to do this again recently as when I removed the manifold I found out one of the headless / double threaded bolts that screw into the head ( manifold then goes on it, then the nuts ) had come loose.

This resulted in an obvious leak that made a squelchy squeal from the manifold when I squeezed a coolant pipe Yikes!

All cleaned with carb cleaner, connected back up and bled now... boy it runs better

Thanks again for the guide, I know a lot more about how the engine bay is set out just due to having to replace the IMG
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post #47 of 121 (permalink) Old 31-03-2010, 18:11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan k109 View Post
one of the headless / double threaded bolts that screw into the head ( manifold then goes on it, then the nuts ) had come loose.
Good work. 'Studs' is the official name
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post #48 of 121 (permalink) Old 14-07-2010, 21:03
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Just got to say i did this on my R45 the other day after reading this and it went like a dream. Took about 1hr 45mins but that did include 2 beer stops.
Thanks a load.
Simon
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post #49 of 121 (permalink) Old 14-08-2010, 14:12
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Big Thanks Rover_King for this info.. Im halfway through doing mine right now. Added to your rep.

I did have a few differences, top centre nuts came undone, but brought the stud out with it.

Im struggling to get bottom far right nut in, I struggled to get it out also.

The surfaces on mine were in a right state, whoever did this job last did a poor job. It had the green gasket, but it was hardened, split in 3 places and was in two pieces. It also seemed like a 1 sided gasket... whereas the replacement I bought can go 2 ways...

Im hoping this solves a few of my issues, but if it wasnt for forums like this and users like yourself sharing your experience with us, we would be knackered... as Haynes is fine, but doesnt offer the same quality pictures and step by step processes.. and mistakes that can happen, and ability to post somewhere like here for help if you balls it up.

Big Up to you.
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post #50 of 121 (permalink) Old 15-08-2010, 22:15
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Thanks for this, changed mine today
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post #51 of 121 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 18:36
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Just doing mine now.

The only difference is the Dealer states there are two gaskets available

Green one - CAT spare part

Black one - LR Genuine Item

Typically i took the Genuine , lets see how well it lasts lol


As an aside, there are no locating lugs on the block on my MY95 416

so im just just off to torque it up and refill

Mart
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post #52 of 121 (permalink) Old 29-10-2010, 07:24
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You said you need to retighten the nuts and bolts in sequence. Starting with the middle.

What does this mean? I am going to attempt this in the next couple of days .
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post #53 of 121 (permalink) Old 29-10-2010, 07:26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nothadoth View Post
You said you need to retighten the nuts and bolts in sequence. Starting with the middle.

What does this mean? I am going to attempt this in the next couple of days .
Start in the middle and work your way out..so you get even pressure..
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post #54 of 121 (permalink) Old 31-10-2010, 20:41
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Hi
Wanted to know if anybody has bought the green IMG from 'The gasket shop' online - £3 all in? or can suggest someplace to order on line...thanks
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post #55 of 121 (permalink) Old 31-10-2010, 21:03
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If I was doing the job I would use this one - http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ro...2f2c8c3aa&MANG

EDIT:
Latest gasket is now - http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LKJ101110
Probably well worth giving it a try.

Last edited by 1955diesel; 04-12-2010 at 11:28.
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post #56 of 121 (permalink) Old 17-01-2011, 17:35
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Great thread.
Managed the job fairly easily thanks to the easy to follow directions.
Thanks
John
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post #57 of 121 (permalink) Old 24-01-2011, 17:18
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brilliant how to!

ill definatly be using this as a guide in the next few days
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post #58 of 121 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 22:19
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The only thing putting me off doing this myself is how I have a tendancy to get frustrated and give up on things, something I can't really do with a job like this being half done.

What tools do I need to make this as easy as possible? I have a small ratchet set similar to the box in the 2nd link which was just enough to change the spark plugs myself but its really short.

Would any of these kits below be needed/recommended or any others?

Thanks

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165572

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165572

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165572
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post #59 of 121 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 13:15
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Will this IMG

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ro...2f2c8c3aa&MANG

fit the 214 si 1997 16V as well? It states the Rover 25 on the site!

Cheers
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post #60 of 121 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 13:26
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Link does not work.

Use the one in my link above.
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