How do I - change Inlet manifold gasket? (K Series) - Page 4 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #61 of 121 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 13:38
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1955 diesel, that's the one I meant. oopps. Will it fir the 214si 95-99 16V?
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post #62 of 121 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 19:30
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It will fit anything with the black plastic inlet manifold.
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post #63 of 121 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 23:44
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The one thing that never gets mentioned is the tools, I found using a 250mm 'wobble bar' 3/8 extension and 3/8 ratchet with a hex socket socket made the job relatively easy.

There's just no room for a big clumsy 1/2 drive setup in there! Ebay is your friend for such tools, I got a Draper setup for about a tenner posted for the ratchet and sockets, and about 7 quid posted for the long extension. I couldn't even buy 'crapola'' dubious quality ratchet kits locally for that sort of money!
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post #64 of 121 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 21:03
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leaking again

My MGZT 1.8 seems to be having repeted faliure of the inlet mainfold gasket it has just started leaking again it was last replaced in march 2010 and a simliar time in 2009.

So far it has been replaced 3 times and looking at the part numbers they are all slightly different as follows. LBJ101110L - MLKJ101110SLP - LKJ101110. Are they all different versions of the same gasket? if so what is the latest one and best to fit in a car that has had repeted failure.

One thing to mention i have owned the car since it was 6 months old and it has never over heated although i did have the new rail and MLS head gasket fitted when there was slight mayo it the coolant. This was fitted at 60,000 miles and the problem only appeared to start 10,000 after that.

Any suggestion greatfully recieved.
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post #65 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011, 13:29
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Not sure what the first one is (Rimmers online epc doesn't recognise the number) but I would think it is a different gasket (unless the LBJ is a typo and yuo meant LKJ).

LKJ100110L, LKJ100110SLP and LKJ100110 are all the correct gasket for the K series plastic manifold.

The L suffix usually denotes an aftermarket part - usually a lot cheaper (around 3-4), but probably not as good quality.

The SLP suffix stands for 'Service Line Part' which is like a second string cheaper option genuine MGR part from XPart (about 7).

The part number with no suffix is a genuine MG Rover/XPart OEM part, is more expensive (about 18) but should be guaranteed in quality and fit. The original green gasket as used in the factory has been unavailable for a while and has recently been replaced by a new improved black gasket made of viton (under the same part number), and that is probably the best one to go for.

I have had the same kind of repeat failure problem as you on my ZR, and had been using the SLP version (as that was the best available from XPart at the time), but have just yesterday fitted one of the new viton ones, so we shall see if it lasts any better. It is slightly thicker and stiffer than the SLP one which is perhaps a good sign. (interesting to see on the label it is made in India)

The viton one looks the part, but is a bit of an unknown quantity at this stage. Of the other gaskets, the Service Line one will be better than any of the cheap aftermarket ones, or there is one available from Payen which seems to be highly regarded (Federal-Mogul/Payen supplied the original gaskets to MG Rover).
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post #66 of 121 (permalink) Old 15-02-2011, 19:42
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Thanks for the info, i have seen a new inlet gasket that Rimmer bros have its made of Viton rubber i think. Any one know if these are any good?
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post #67 of 121 (permalink) Old 20-03-2011, 17:30
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Just had a first attempt at this and it was a fail, couldn't get anywhere near the lower centre bolt with even all my extensions and bendy joint bars and spanners. Is there anything else that can be removed to get at them? I did the thick black pipes, all the electrics but theres still a lot of plastic manifold (4pipes are the main blocking culprits) that I can remove?
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post #68 of 121 (permalink) Old 20-03-2011, 18:07
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use a 1/4inch set. much smaller.

eg http://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/index.p...roducts_id=410
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post #69 of 121 (permalink) Old 20-03-2011, 19:42
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use a 1/4inch set. much smaller.

eg http://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/index.p...roducts_id=410
lol nooooo just decided on my 90 socket set instead of the 150 socket set, the 150 piece has 1/4" extenders and wobble bars (facepalm) I do have a 1/4" ratchet and extention in this one though so I'll try it again tomorrow thanks.
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post #70 of 121 (permalink) Old 20-03-2011, 20:07
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I seem to remember using a 1/4" with two extensions in order to get out past the manifold.
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post #71 of 121 (permalink) Old 22-03-2011, 08:39
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One observation based on having used 2 or 300 manifold 'O' rings is that not all of them are as thick in section as they should be, check that the one you are using is 5.2 to 5.3mm thick. Any less than this and their ability to seal effectively will be compromised. I have seen 'O' rings, supplied by Rover as thin as 4mm. These are a disaster waiting to happen and I have been caught out by them a couple of times.

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post #72 of 121 (permalink) Old 22-03-2011, 10:13
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By O ring, I'm guessing that you are referring to the rubber gasket?
This sounds to me like a cost reduction issue again! The standard tolerance on rubber components is very wide indeed and the only way to hold a tight tolerance is by selection. This of course nearly doubles the price so is something that suppliers don't like doing. The Rover Buyer's Dept. were often very naive and easily persuaded that things would be OK away from drawing if the price was right!

Last edited by 1955diesel; 22-03-2011 at 13:57.
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post #73 of 121 (permalink) Old 22-03-2011, 13:18
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By O ring, I'm guessing that you are referring to the rubber gasket?
Indeedy, just poor nomenclature.

Dave
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post #74 of 121 (permalink) Old 23-03-2011, 17:11
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Grr just wasted another 2 hours straight on this and I'm giving up.

This thread should come with a disclaimer that its not as easy as its made to sound and don't bother unless you're really handy with tools and impossibly tight spaces, just go to a garage.
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post #75 of 121 (permalink) Old 30-03-2011, 11:43
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Grr just wasted another 2 hours straight on this and I'm giving up.

This thread should come with a disclaimer that its not as easy as its made to sound and don't bother unless you're really handy with tools and impossibly tight spaces, just go to a garage.
It turns out that the reason I was having so much trouble is because I have an lpg, it has different injectors. They actually going straight through the manifold so it really is impossible to get behind them, you need to vent part of the lpg system and unthread the injectors to get to the screws.

So if you have an lpg, a lot more work required!
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post #76 of 121 (permalink) Old 25-04-2011, 10:34
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Quick question, I have all of my tools ready as well as the replacement IMG.

Is it absolutely necessary to drain the coolant system?

Can this job just be done by replacing the IMG and leaving the coolant alone?
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post #77 of 121 (permalink) Old 25-04-2011, 14:14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendoskeg View Post
Quick question, I have all of my tools ready as well as the replacement IMG.

Is it absolutely necessary to drain the coolant system?

Can this job just be done by replacing the IMG and leaving the coolant alone?
You'll need to drain the coolant mate. If you don't the coolant will go all over the place when you remove the inlet maifold and it'll get into the cylinders too.

Your best bet is to remove the bottom rad hose to drain the coolant, change the gasket, refill the cooland and then bleed the system.

When ae you thinking of doing it? If my hand gets better anytime soon I might be able to lend you a hand (no pun inteded).
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post #78 of 121 (permalink) Old 25-04-2011, 14:23
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If you remove the coolant tank from its mountings and place it lower than the top of the cylinder head you will find that very little coolant escapes when the manifold is removed.

When the job is finished fit the tank back in position, allow the coolant level to settle and top up as necessary.

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post #79 of 121 (permalink) Old 26-04-2011, 19:40
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If you remove the coolant tank from its mountings and place it lower than the top of the cylinder head you will find that very little coolant escapes when the manifold is removed.

When the job is finished fit the tank back in position, allow the coolant level to settle and top up as necessary.
Thanks mate, good tip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HotTubRepairer View Post
You'll need to drain the coolant mate. If you don't the coolant will go all over the place when you remove the inlet maifold and it'll get into the cylinders too.

Your best bet is to remove the bottom rad hose to drain the coolant, change the gasket, refill the cooland and then bleed the system.

When ae you thinking of doing it? If my hand gets better anytime soon I might be able to lend you a hand (no pun inteded).
Not sure mate, was meant to be yesterday but someone ended up parking in my space on the street so I didn't have the room to do it. Hopefully next week!
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post #80 of 121 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 16:01
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mate this was brilliant!!! followed all your steps perfect...welll dont know yet as i have just replaced the inlet manifold gasket and the cam cover gasket!! flushing the system at the moment, but im pretty sure everything will be fine

thanks for your help
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