How do I - change Inlet manifold gasket? (K Series) - Page 5 - Forums
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post #81 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-06-2011, 16:53
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Do i need a new manifold ?
Great thread by the way,
I've taken my manifold off, to change the gasket as I am getting a coolant leak, the gasket dosnt look to bad but the manifold itself looks damaged\corroded around the plastic lip?, where the coolant leaves the block.

Sorry could upload photo's
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post #82 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-06-2011, 19:56
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In order to seal, the groove that the gasket sits in needs to be in good condition and the flange must be flat. Manifolds that have seen serious overheating are often distorted and will not seal. Chips and scratches outside the gasket area should not cause a problem.
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post #83 of 121 (permalink) Old 27-08-2011, 17:23
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IMG replacement

Just followed the thread & replaced the IMG today (doesn't seem to have made a great deal of difference to the running though!) - One problem... I followed the "how to", but didn't follow the thread all the way down, so I've actually tightened the nuts to the old setting of 25nm instead of 17nm. Is this going to cause any problems other than making it an even bigger nightmare to undo them if I need to do so again? Thanks.
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post #84 of 121 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011, 13:29
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I drive a MG ZR 105 Le mans year 2004. ( petrol ) 1.4 16 valves
I got lots of problems starting the car when its cold or wet outside.
The car will break down - revs will be unstable on idle etc.

I want to know if this is related to this problem?
Also what series do I have ? K series?
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post #85 of 121 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011, 13:46
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Originally Posted by Khennos View Post
I drive a MG ZR 105 Le mans year 2004. ( petrol ) 1.4 16 valves
I got lots of problems starting the car when its cold or wet outside.
The car will break down - revs will be unstable on idle etc.

I want to know if this is related to this problem?
Also what series do I have ? K series?

yes it is the k-series.
Unstable revs on idle could be something like the idle control valve... or even something as simple as the spark plugs needing replacing.

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post #86 of 121 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011, 14:34
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or a coolant temp sensor?
I just ordered the black one
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post #87 of 121 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 00:39
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What this thread doesn't say is there is a waterway on both ends of the cylinder head covered by the inlet manifold and outboard of 1 and 4 inlet tracts one, the left hand on mine just goes to a blind depression in the manifold which is where the leak comes from.
I changed my inlet gasket on my 1.4 litre 25 this afternoon, a lot less work that the thread suggests, I undid two breather hoses between the Head and manifold, unclipped the top of the airbox and undid seven 13mm nuts, and pulled the manifold back and then up to hook out the gasket which had gone brown around the waterways, simples, except you can't quite get at the lower nuts, it needed a 1/2 drive 13mm socket on a 3/8 tp 1/2 " adaptor and a 3/8 extension and ratchet to get the end ones undone and there is no way to get straight enough to use a torque wrench on them reliably, so I just did them up tight.
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post #88 of 121 (permalink) Old 23-10-2011, 10:44
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Did this yesterday with this guide (thanks!), it would appear it already had the revised gasket from when the headgasket was done in the care of the previous owner but there was a build up of gunk in there? Figured I'd take some photos and post them anyway.

Manifold first off, hello green gasket.

gunk build up

cleaned the manifold surfaces up

head surfaces


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post #89 of 121 (permalink) Old 31-10-2011, 11:08
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Did mine the other day only removed the air filter hose and the 2 breather hoses. As above had the same gunk build up as above any ideas what causes this gunk.
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post #90 of 121 (permalink) Old 13-12-2011, 12:45
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if i change my manifold gasket will my car start. basicly it is doing something i heard was called hydrolic lock or something and its something to do with coolent leaking into inlet manifold.
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post #91 of 121 (permalink) Old 21-12-2011, 23:50
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you would need to find the cause of the leak to be sure, but if the leak is from the IMG then yes it should stop it happening again.

mine is better since changing the gasket, it starts much better but is still idling lumpy, need to investigate the ignition system now
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post #92 of 121 (permalink) Old 05-02-2012, 16:45
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Hi, I own a 1.4 2003 45 which has been losing coolant.

I noticed the other day that for a few seconds after switching the engine off a gurgling sound could be heard from the back of the engine - inlet manifold area.

I have also found traces of emulsified oil on the filler cap and dipstick.
the heater is hot and the engine hasn't over heated.

Is it possible that I am suffering from IMG failure, with the coolant being lost presenting itself as mayo in the engine? or am I more likely looking at the head gasket having gone?

I plan to change the IMG tomorrow, but would like to hear your opinions.

Should I be looking at anything else?
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post #93 of 121 (permalink) Old 23-02-2012, 15:14
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Did this today following these instructions. Excellent, took about 1/2 hours. only needed a 13mm socket on 38" rachet, extension and a wobble extension (ive got long arms!) One stud came out. It took longer to refill the coolant really. Well thats how it seemed trying to get the air out and heater hot. The gasket on there was green, it seemed hard and was slightly broken. I could see some coolant in the port nearest the throttle housing. I used a triton gasket from Rimmers about 13. The steam out of the exhaust is markedly less and now seem to be getting soot in the exhaust pipe! previously this was sparkly clean.

I took off all the breather hoses and airbox and 3(I think) electrical connecters. It was fiddly but ok. It was harder to replace the battery as the captive nut had rusted so had to grind off the bolt.

Last edited by chrystal; 23-02-2012 at 16:14.
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post #94 of 121 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 11:22
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Changed the inlet manifold gasket on Saturday using this excellent guide. A few scraped knuckles, but nothing too disastrous. All now seems okay so it's fingers crossed on the head gasket front. Put 5 litres of coolant in the boot just in case :-)

I have read some posts on the forum about repeat failures of IMGs and the merits or otherwise of various colour and type of gasket used. Out of interest I used the new Viton one. However, whilst cleaning the cylinder head/manifold joint face I did notice very slight depressions in the head around the waterways where previous inlet manifold gaskets had left their impression, plus some very minor localised erosion. I've also noticed this in some of the photos included in posts on here. My theory is that if these marks are bad enough then they may well affect the ability of the new gasket to form a reliable and long lasting seal. If the head has to come off at some point in the future I will definitely get the manifold face skimmed.
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post #95 of 121 (permalink) Old 09-09-2012, 18:14
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Do the metal inlet manifolds leak too?
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post #96 of 121 (permalink) Old 20-09-2012, 09:06
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No,I don't think they cause problems. Rover should have stuck with the alloy ones.
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post #97 of 121 (permalink) Old 23-09-2012, 09:49
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the metal ones are less problematic, and have been built to deal with higher pressures.
unfortunately Plastic has a nasty habit of changing shape when it heats up
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post #98 of 121 (permalink) Old 19-10-2012, 20:57
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fuel pipe connection to inlet manifold leaking

hi all,

I have a fuel leak from the inlet manifold (main fuel pipe connection under the throttle body) on a 98 214si bubble. this happened after refitting the pipe to the manifold after HG change. the link below is the pipe i am talking about.

high pressure fuel pipe

the pipe (with little dingy o-ring end) was very tight to refit and as a result one of the screws won't tighten and is threaded, causing fuel to leak when pressurised.

should the o-ring be renewed after removing pipe or can it be reused???

any advise how to fix this much appreciated.

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post #99 of 121 (permalink) Old 30-10-2012, 19:04
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Smile fixed!

ok problem sorted with a new o-ring. had alot of hassle looking for a new one, not included with any gasket sets either.

if removing inlet manifold and the fuel pipe connection, be sure to change the rubber o-ring and DON'T over tighten the fixing screws!!
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post #100 of 121 (permalink) Old 10-03-2013, 18:14
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I have been reading these forums since I bought my ZR atomix 2 weeks ago. It had the steam problem and then noticed the water dripping from the back of the engine. I'd like to thank you all especially the poster of the guide on how to change the manifold gasket. I did mine yesterday, while removing the manifold I noticed the nut directly below cylinder number 3 was missing!!! I'm pretty sure that wouldn't help the gasket seal properly! It was dripping water from under the number 4 cylinder intake port.

All in with a trip to the scrapyard for a nut it took me about 2 and a half hours to do, bled the cooling system (correctly I hope) and took it for a drive last night roughly 20 miles. Heaters blow hot, temperature gauge is fine and the car feels a lot more responsive. Also now when it warms up there is a very noticable reduction in steam from the exhaust. Virtually none existent in fact. Checked the coolant this morning and it had dropped about 1cm down, maybe just settled overnight?? And topped it back to the max line. Done another 20 miles this morning and the water hasn't dropped again.

There's no sign of anything in the oil, the coolant I drained was nice and clean and hopefully I caught the problem before it got serious. Thanks to this thread I saved 114 in labour and the potential of a garage diagnosing head gasket failure so thanks again.


Last edited by bobbusways; 10-03-2013 at 18:17. Reason: spelling error
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