How To: Head Gasket Change K Series (Pic Heavy!!) - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 06:48
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The locking tool holds the pulleys still while you undo/do up the fixings and also holds the cams in the right place while you are fitting the belt. I've never bothered with one.
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post #22 of 183 (permalink) Old 28-12-2007, 09:07
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i tryed to fit the belt without one and gave up as the cams kept moving.bought one and it was easy.
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post #23 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 13:17
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Originally Posted by pete l View Post
So what is point of having a locking tool for the 2 sprockets then if they have to comme off ?
EXACTLY!

Im going to change the head gasket on my dads Rover 416 - just for peace of mind. But the cambelt will need changing too, (probably, think it could be original!) that means messing with the tensioner.......I hate tensioners Although do I really need to change the tensioner.....only done 43,000 miles?
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post #24 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 13:32
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Originally Posted by Rover_King View Post
Although do I really need to change the tensioner.....only done 43,000 miles?

I would, we had a 1997 214Sli in here a couple of months ago - one owner 34K with full dealer history - the tensioner was squealing like a pig!
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post #25 of 183 (permalink) Old 23-01-2008, 21:10
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if you have had oil in you water you should replace your radiator and when you put the head bolts back in DONT drop bolts in be very CAREFULL as these bolts hold your big end cap in aswell a big job if you are not carefull
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post #26 of 183 (permalink) Old 24-01-2008, 08:17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rod-the-cod View Post
if you have had oil in you water you should replace your radiator
Why?



Quote:
Originally Posted by rod-the-cod View Post
these bolts hold your big end cap in aswell
Main bearings rather than big ends.
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post #27 of 183 (permalink) Old 13-02-2008, 19:34
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Why?




Main bearings rather than big ends.
I MENT MAINS SORRY once you get oil in water system you cant get it all out and radiator is very fine bore this is common nolage with main dealer and people who know wat there talking about
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post #28 of 183 (permalink) Old 20-02-2008, 14:50
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Excellent post, thank you very much!

Your pictures are much more useful than those in the Haynes manual, as I haven't got my car yet

Rep added
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post #29 of 183 (permalink) Old 20-02-2008, 19:21
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Originally Posted by rod-the-cod View Post
I MENT MAINS SORRY once you get oil in water system you cant get it all out and radiator is very fine bore this is common nolage with main dealer and people who know wat there talking about
Old post I know, but I agree with diesel..why?
There are ways of cleaning it out.
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post #30 of 183 (permalink) Old 13-04-2008, 21:54
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I did my 75 in the open, in winter and the elements through everything at me - minus 10 to snow. jealous of the gazeebo. Like the photo story a lot! Can you or someone as talented AND as user friendly highlight the technique required to get the coolant back into a 75 without wasting gallons of it? Love the tutorial!
PS:- I Hate Haynes !!!!!!
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post #31 of 183 (permalink) Old 15-05-2008, 16:13
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Can't undo crank pulley! r25 k 1.4i! help!

Been struggling with trying to get the crank pulley off for about 20 minutes. Haven't got the little locking tool (didn't realise until now), so been trying to lock a screwdriver/crowbar (carefully) between the teeth of the ringwheel and then the other person tries to undo the crank pulley (anti clockwise)..

just wont budge..

any ideas? can't believe I missed out a tool I needed...grrr! And the tool is only a bolt with a wash nut, and piece of metal on it..

Anything I can do?
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post #32 of 183 (permalink) Old 07-06-2008, 10:48
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To make head fitment easier, especially if you are using wellseal for the shim type gasket I cut two of the old bolts as close to the heads as possible and de-burred them, put these rods in one or two turns in opposite corners of the block and you have a guide to lower the head onto the block, will line up with the dowels first time so your not marking or damaging and part of the head or valves. A turn or two with some long nosed pliers and you can pull them out and fit your new bolts.
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post #33 of 183 (permalink) Old 07-06-2008, 12:42
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i changed my head gasket with the aid of these instructions, which i must say were spot on...but now my car wont start ne ideas?
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post #34 of 183 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 07:04
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are you sure the timing is correct? Also do the obvious things like checking for fuel and a spark.

I assume you didn't just follow these instructions and used them as they were intended with a haynes manual..
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post #35 of 183 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 16:08
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Originally Posted by Lukas414i View Post
i changed my head gasket with the aid of these instructions, which i must say were spot on...but now my car wont start ne ideas?
What do you mean by "won't start". DO you mean the engine turns, or is it nothign at all, or does it fire up then die etc?
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post #36 of 183 (permalink) Old 16-06-2008, 19:05
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Originally Posted by replete View Post
Been struggling with trying to get the crank pulley off for about 20 minutes. Haven't got the little locking tool (didn't realise until now), so been trying to lock a screwdriver/crowbar (carefully) between the teeth of the ringwheel and then the other person tries to undo the crank pulley (anti clockwise)...
The only way I could do it was to jack the car up onto an axel stand. Use a very long socket extension so that I had a large arc outside of the wheel arch to move the bolt. I used a spare axle stand to support the wrench end of the extension bar, put it into gear and got a friend to stamp hard on the brakes while I pushed over and down on the wrench. I gave the bolt a little tap before I started as well.
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post #37 of 183 (permalink) Old 17-06-2008, 16:04
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Originally Posted by Rusty Bullet View Post
The only way I could do it was to jack the car up onto an axel stand. Use a very long socket extension so that I had a large arc outside of the wheel arch to move the bolt. I used a spare axle stand to support the wrench end of the extension bar, put it into gear and got a friend to stamp hard on the brakes while I pushed over and down on the wrench. I gave the bolt a little tap before I started as well.
I tried for a couple of hours to no avail. So I invested in an electic impact wrench of fleabay <20. Took less than 30 seconds! Check out Argos item 740/2230
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post #38 of 183 (permalink) Old 14-07-2008, 22:19
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Unhappy help my 75 k series engine

hello there i seen ur tutorial great work u cetainly know abit about the k series engine .well i have a rover 75 1.8 petrol and need help. here we go.
Had the head gasket done with new radiater about 9 months ago and now my engine is over heating, a new therm and pump and fan sensor has been fitted and all air taken out and engine flushed yet when the engine gets to running temp the fan comes on and stays on keeping the car from over heating (componsating as i think water aint circlating properly)
the pipe above the rad gets hot while the pipe at bottom is cold. engine runs fine but i only do short journy until the prop is solved.
its been in garage and they didnt solve the prop hense new wp therm etc
i dont thing its been properly flushed and to see for my self i would like to take out the therm and run it without it to see what or if the pipe gets hot etc as it could be faulty but i do trust my engineer as he is a close friend and would think that all this has been checked and checked again (said he never touches k series engines but tackled it for me says get rid of it but i do like it ,so can u help and advise

thanks dr dee
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post #39 of 183 (permalink) Old 14-07-2008, 22:20
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Unhappy help my 75 k series engine

hello there i seen ur tutorial great work u cetainly know abit about the k series engine .well i have a rover 75 1.8 petrol and need help. here we go.
Had the head gasket done with new radiater about 9 months ago and now my engine is over heating, a new therm and pump and fan sensor has been fitted and all air taken out and engine flushed yet when the engine gets to running temp the fan comes on and stays on keeping the car from over heating (componsating as i think water aint circlating properly)
the pipe above the rad gets hot while the pipe at bottom is cold. engine runs fine but i only do short journy until the prop is solved.
its been in garage and they didnt solve the prop hense new wp therm etc
i dont thing its been properly flushed and to see for my self i would like to take out the therm and run it without it to see what or if the pipe gets hot etc as it could be faulty but i do trust my engineer as he is a close friend and would think that all this has been checked and checked again (said he never touches k series engines but tackled it for me says get rid of it but i do like it ,so can u help and advise

thanks dr dee
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post #40 of 183 (permalink) Old 29-08-2008, 10:32
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I found this kit on ebay but when double checking your 'how to' i've seen that you said not to bother with ebay due to poor quality http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-K-SERIES...d=p3286.c0.m14 shall i steer clear then? Can i get the same kit from a garage?
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