How To: Head Gasket Change K Series (Pic Heavy!!) - Page 3 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #41 of 183 (permalink) Old 30-08-2008, 11:52
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Originally Posted by hardman View Post
hello there i seen ur tutorial great work u cetainly know abit about the k series engine .well i have a rover 75 1.8 petrol and need help. here we go.
Had the head gasket done with new radiater about 9 months ago and now my engine is over heating, a new therm and pump and fan sensor has been fitted and all air taken out and engine flushed yet when the engine gets to running temp the fan comes on and stays on keeping the car from over heating (componsating as i think water aint circlating properly)
the pipe above the rad gets hot while the pipe at bottom is cold. engine runs fine but i only do short journy until the prop is solved.
its been in garage and they didnt solve the prop hense new wp therm etc
i dont thing its been properly flushed and to see for my self i would like to take out the therm and run it without it to see what or if the pipe gets hot etc as it could be faulty but i do trust my engineer as he is a close friend and would think that all this has been checked and checked again (said he never touches k series engines but tackled it for me says get rid of it but i do like it ,so can u help and advise...
Thermostats usually fail open rather than shut. I'd get the coolant pressure tested and have a compression test for the combustion chambers. Neither should be expensive. Compression tester from Halfords is like 20.00, odd...I can't say about coolant testing, but some garages should be able to advise. If that checks OK, then I'd say it must be an air-lock...are you losing coolant?
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post #42 of 183 (permalink) Old 30-08-2008, 13:11
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This How to guide was a great help. For a newby this gave me the confidence to take the plunge with my 214i's head problem.

I've got everything together and i'm proud to say the car started the first time, however the engine was quite rough, i later figured out that one of the cylinders (3rd) was not firing. I've checked that it is actually getting the spark but if i started the engine without the spark plug, no fuel was blowing out. I suspect that this could either be the valves or the injectors, i personally suspect the injectors but i would love to get some second oppinions from the experts !!!
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post #43 of 183 (permalink) Old 30-08-2008, 13:28
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Take the spark plus out and clean it.

Chances are the plug has some crud in it from when you took the head off.
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post #44 of 183 (permalink) Old 30-08-2008, 13:44
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Thanks for replying mate. When i took the plug out then started the car, i could actually see the spark at the end. Oh and i put new ones in when i put everything back together.
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post #45 of 183 (permalink) Old 30-08-2008, 15:23
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I'm sure fuel is not getting to the cylinder. Also looking at the spark plug compared to the others is clean meaning theres no combustion in the cylinder. i really hope its not a valve failure, i dont fancy taking the engine apart again.
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post #46 of 183 (permalink) Old 22-12-2008, 08:22
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what are the necessary tools you need to do this i know you need a cam locking tool and spanners and an Lbar. what other thing could i need i dont want to start and then stop coz i have forgot something,

Cheers in advance
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post #47 of 183 (permalink) Old 22-12-2008, 10:45
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E12 Torx socket for head bolts.
Big breaker bar and socket for crank pulley.
Small socket set for belt covers.
Medium socket set for everything else.
Torque wrench with a low range for small fixings and head bolt snug torque.
Jack.
Axle stands.
Oil filter wrench?
Penetrating oil (not WD40) for exhaust fixings.
Allen key for tensioner fixing.
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post #48 of 183 (permalink) Old 22-12-2008, 10:47
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E12 Torx socket for head bolts.
Big breaker bar and socket for crank pulley.
Small socket set for belt covers.
Medium socket set for everything else.
Torque wrench with a low range for small fixings and head bolt snug torque.
Jack.
Axle stands.
Oil filter wrench?
Penetrating oil (not WD40) for exhaust fixings.
Allen key for tensioner fixing.
Cam gasket sealant
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post #49 of 183 (permalink) Old 22-12-2008, 17:12
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...and a mate to stand on the brake peddle when you want to undo the crank bolt!
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post #50 of 183 (permalink) Old 22-12-2008, 18:14
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...and a mate to stand on the brake peddle when you want to undo the crank bolt!
Or if you dont have any mates, get a flywheel locking tool
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post #51 of 183 (permalink) Old 23-12-2008, 13:29
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Just like to thank you for this article that was immensely helpful in my repairing my rover 200 headgasket. I also downloaded a RAVE manual that I would have been lost without as a companion.

I went through the lot, removed pipes, removed cylinder head, replaced gasket and head, discovered engine wasn't running. Rejigged timing mech to original marks, beauty it worked! No overheating and the blowers inside blowing hot air again.

However, there still seems a lot of smoke from the tailpipe. Also the I left the coolant cap off overnight and in the morning all the coolant had gone, the engine struggled starting and when it started there were clouds of white smoke for about five full minutes. Is there still a problem with the headgasket? or has a possible cracked head brought some coolant into a cylinder, or as I hope, leaving the cap off makes this happen?

Any advice is gratefully accepted.

But great article and merry christmas all!
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post #52 of 183 (permalink) Old 23-12-2008, 14:38
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Originally Posted by dozadog View Post
Just like to thank you for this article that was immensely helpful in my repairing my rover 200 headgasket. I also downloaded a RAVE manual that I would have been lost without as a companion.

I went through the lot, removed pipes, removed cylinder head, replaced gasket and head, discovered engine wasn't running. Rejigged timing mech to original marks, beauty it worked! No overheating and the blowers inside blowing hot air again.

However, there still seems a lot of smoke from the tailpipe. Also the I left the coolant cap off overnight and in the morning all the coolant had gone, the engine struggled starting and when it started there were clouds of white smoke for about five full minutes. Is there still a problem with the headgasket? or has a possible cracked head brought some coolant into a cylinder, or as I hope, leaving the cap off makes this happen?

Any advice is gratefully accepted.

But great article and merry christmas all!
I was really concerned by the smiok/steam afetr I did mine. I am fairly sure it is normal and will go afetr a day or two of driving. Also the drop in coolant overngiht probably just means an airlock settled when cool. You did make sure you bled it properly didint you?

Coolant levels may take several days or more to level out. Did you clean out the cylinders.

You probably spilled coolant/oil down when removing the head if any was left in the waterways etc.??

Dont know, but I woudl say its OK just be very vigilant over the next few days and re-bleed the coolant if you still ahve problems. Probably wouldnt go any epic voyages until you know its settled
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post #53 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-01-2009, 12:54
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EXACTLY!

Im going to change the head gasket on my dads Rover 416 - just for peace of mind. But the cambelt will need changing too, (probably, think it could be original!) that means messing with the tensioner.......I hate tensioners Although do I really need to change the tensioner.....only done 43,000 miles?
if you dont want to take the cam pulley/s off or the inner timing cover, do this...

down the front of the inner timing cover just above the level of the head gasket face, there is a really thin bit of timing cover, i just get a hacksaw blade and cut it across there, ive never had a problem by doing this, and u can barely see it once its all back together because the front part still bolts to it...

bit of a time saver,

also im not 100% sure on this but ive been told that the head bolts hold the main bearing caps up to the crank! judging by the length of them i wouldnt be suprised so i always take extreme care when putting the head bolts back in there holes... eg, PLACE them in dont drop them in.

oh yea and if you are using one of the triple layered steel redesigned head gaskets, then yes you do need to get the head skimmed, if you dont then you wont have enough compression.

you may think this one is a bit weird but if im not using a steel gasket then i tend to soak both sides of it in hairspray, yes hairspray, try taking a head off that has had hairspray all over the gasket and you will see why, it creates a nice seal and ive never had a comeback...
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post #54 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-01-2009, 13:03
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Originally Posted by Broon View Post
Or if you dont have any mates, get a flywheel locking tool
or just rest a breaker bar on the crank bolt remembering that the crank pulley spins clockwise, temporarily connect the battery back up, flick the key to turn the engine over and you will hear a bang where the bar has hit the chassis or whatever u wedge it against and your crank bolt will be loose... try not to use extension bars as it will pull at an angle and more than likely round it off

obviously make sure the rest of the cam belt is still on when you do this, make sure the coil lead or coil pack is unplugged.

just dont try this at home lol
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post #55 of 183 (permalink) Old 15-03-2009, 14:18
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I've just done a HG change which so far seems to be a succes, if anyone is attempting to do this job DIY, I would recommend that you take your time. Source as any parts as possible before taking the engine apart and it will make life much easier. Ebay is a great way of saving money but the conveniance of a local motor factors such as Partco is worth paying the extra. Take your time, place the bolts in such a way that you are able to remember where they came from, I kept the bolts in the actual bolt holes where possible and layed the parts out rather than making a random pile. Cleaning is also very very important, buy plenty of 3M Scotch-Brite pads, they're in Asda, WD40 is good for cleaning too.

It isn't a job that you need to fear, I managed it, just take your time, do things in a logical order and don't just dive in. There's plenty of great info on the forum, other members will give great advice (don't be afraid to ask if you unsure) and a decent workshop manual is essential. I wouldn't be afraid to change another HG, I wouldn't look forward to it or enjoy it but I'm sure that if it does ever fail again I'll change it myself.

I made a thread on the forum which was primarily done so that I can show others what progress I'm making and it was also an ideal place for me to ask any questions about the HG change as I proceeded. My thread is here. It may be of use to others in the future, it's not a "how to" guide but it does have quite a lot of info and also a bit of chit chat/banter too.

For anyone facing this job and about to tackle it on their own, you have my full support and also that of the other forum members.
Cheers,
Ian.
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post #56 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-03-2009, 21:03
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Question headbolts to tight?

Also trying to change the hg here but for some reason i can not loosen the headbolts, loosen them is counterclockwise right?
They seem to loosen a little but then get stuck again.....
Or am i to carefull here?
Were can i find the tighten sequence?
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post #57 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-03-2009, 21:05
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Also trying to change the hg here but for some reason i can not loosen the headbolts, loosen them is counterclockwise right?
They seem to loosen a little but then get stuck again.....
Or am i to carefull here?
Wel when I did mine, they came out quite easily, so maybe you just need to give it more oomph. M ind you , you dont want to damage the threads in the block....... Dunno
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post #58 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-03-2009, 21:09
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Wel when I did mine, they came out quite easily, so maybe you just need to give it more oomph. M ind you , you dont want to damage the threads in the block....... Dunno
Thats why i am asking if they come off counter clockwise......certainly dont want to damage anything
When trying to loosen them they give in a little but then get stuck(seems) like if they are secured...
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post #59 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-03-2009, 21:16
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Thats why i am asking if they come off counter clockwise......certainly dont want to damage anything
When trying to loosen them they give in a little but then get stuck(seems) like if they are secured...
Sorry, bu tyes, they are like any othewr screw..i.e. loosened by going counter clockwise
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post #60 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-03-2009, 21:59
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Thats why i am asking if they come off counter clockwise......certainly dont want to damage anything
When trying to loosen them they give in a little but then get stuck(seems) like if they are secured...
Worst thing that can really happen is that you'llk snap a bolt, a snapped bolt isn't the end of the world though. You can access the head bolts from the underside, remove the oil sump, oil pick up and then the oil rail can come off, the head bolts are threaded into the oil rail.

My head bolts were extremely tight mate.

Slackening sequence... start at the outer bolts both sides of the cylinder head and work your way towards the centre of the head.
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