How To: Head Gasket Change K Series (Pic Heavy!!) - Page 4 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #61 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-03-2009, 22:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotTubRepairer View Post
Worst thing that can really happen is that you'llk snap a bolt, a snapped bolt isn't the end of the world though. You can access the head bolts from the underside, remove the oil sump, oil pick up and then the oil rail can come off, the head bolts are threaded into the oil rail.

My head bolts were extremely tight mate.

Slackening sequence... start at the outer bolts both sides of the cylinder head and work your way towards the centre of the head.
Ahh, yes, theres a defined sequence of removal
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post #62 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-03-2009, 22:21
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Originally Posted by Broon View Post
Ahh, yes, theres a defined sequence of removal
Indeed.

As you look at the cylinder head from the front, looking down from above the bolts should be removed in the following sequence.


............inlet..............
2.....6.....10.....8.....4
1.....5......9......7.....3
.........exhaust...........

I hope that makes sense, cant exactly draw very well using a keyboard.
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post #63 of 183 (permalink) Old 20-03-2009, 10:41
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Originally Posted by HotTubRepairer View Post
Indeed.

As you look at the cylinder head from the front, looking down from above the bolts should be removed in the following sequence.


............inlet..............
2.....6.....10.....8.....4
1.....5......9......7.....3
.........exhaust...........

I hope that makes sense, cant exactly draw very well using a keyboard.

Perfect!!
Gonna give it another try today
Thank you!!
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post #64 of 183 (permalink) Old 20-03-2009, 10:43
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Perfect!!
Gonna give it another try today
Thank you!!
And you can use that to refit by doing it in reverse
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post #65 of 183 (permalink) Old 20-03-2009, 13:58
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And you can use that to refit by doing it in reverse
I'm suprised that anyone could make sense of that drawing.
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post #66 of 183 (permalink) Old 21-03-2009, 13:34
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help please

Hey sorry guys just a little confused with it at the moment, how should i align the cams should it be inlet markd to inlet marks, exhuast marks to exhaust marks or inlet mark to exhaust mark????? totaly lost now.
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post #67 of 183 (permalink) Old 22-03-2009, 11:34
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hey guys is this the same if you have the vvc mech ??
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post #68 of 183 (permalink) Old 22-03-2009, 12:38
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Hey sorry guys just a little confused with it at the moment, how should i align the cams should it be inlet markd to inlet marks, exhuast marks to exhaust marks or inlet mark to exhaust mark????? totaly lost now.
The cams should be alligned like this once the crank pulley marks line up.
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post #69 of 183 (permalink) Old 22-03-2009, 17:38
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I think the HG might have gone on the coop as I'm suffering coolant loss. Anyhow thing I need to ask is how different is it changing the gasket on a 1.8VVC lump to your normal 1.4/1.6?
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post #70 of 183 (permalink) Old 22-03-2009, 17:51
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post #71 of 183 (permalink) Old 23-03-2009, 07:46
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Unless it is turning up in your oil, coolant loss is much more likely to just be a leak than a head gasket problem.
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post #72 of 183 (permalink) Old 23-03-2009, 14:42
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Originally Posted by 1955diesel View Post
Unless it is turning up in your oil, coolant loss is much more likely to just be a leak than a head gasket problem.
My last HG failure did turn up in the oil but only when the head was removed. As far as the dipstick and oil filler cap were concerned there was no sign of the old mayo. Where is the best place to check for leaks and when eg engine warm or cold?
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post #73 of 183 (permalink) Old 23-03-2009, 16:14
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My last HG failure did turn up in the oil but only when the head was removed. As far as the dipstick and oil filler cap were concerned there was no sign of the old mayo. Where is the best place to check for leaks and when eg engine warm or cold?
Common places are the water pump, radiator and underneath the inlet manifold. Other than that, check all hoses and connections and the passenger footwell carpet for dampness which is a sign of the heater matrix leaking. Check for leaks with bothe the engine cold and hot, materials expand with heat and this expansion alone can either seal the leak or be the cause of it, also when the engine/coolant is hot it will be at far greater pressure and more likely to leak. The water pump usually leaks when the engine isn't running and is cooling down. A good way for checking for external leaks is to slide a sheet of cardboard under the car so that you can see any drips of coolant.
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post #74 of 183 (permalink) Old 23-03-2009, 16:39
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A good way for checking for external leaks is to slide a sheet of cardboard under the car so that you can see any drips of coolant.
Spot on. I knew about the inlet and the water pump just wanted to ensure I wasn't missing anywhere else. Thanks fella!
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post #75 of 183 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 17:27
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I posted elsewhere about probs after replacing the HG (coolant leaking out).
414i refused to start (twice) and HG coolant leak

My question is whether I installed the MLS gasket correctly?
The set comes with one plain (steel) gasket and the other with the sealant round the various opening - so I assumed it needed to be installed as supplied, without any additional sealant. Is that right, as one of the ealier posts mentions 'wellseal '?
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post #76 of 183 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 18:28
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Main MLS gasket goes against the block. The shim goes against the head with the sealant on the head side.
If you had coolant leaking out, either something was damaged or dirty or the dowels were not fully home. You don't need to use any additional sealant and just getting things the wrong way round won't cause an instant leak.
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post #77 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 12:34
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Massive Thank-you . . .

Hi guys,

Just wanted to say a massive THANK YOU to Aufo8mycow, Dr Dave and everyone else who has contributed to this and the other HGF threads.

I have just watched my son drive off in his R25 (214) after it has been in bits for the last 6 days in our driveway.

He bought it for fifty quid with the Head Gasket blown and asked his good old dad if I could get it working for him.

I havent done this sort of thing since my Mk2 Cortina back in the 70's !

This forum has been the only reference book I have used, and with the exception of bending all the exhaust vavles first time round (timing all to pot!) the job has gone very well.

So well, I am now on the look out for an old series 2/3 Landrover to play with for myself !

Anywway . . . . enough rambling . . . . Thanks again guys, and happy motoring !

AL
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post #78 of 183 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 19:07
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some good pointers on doing the dreaded hgf but after working on theses cars since day one of the k series we always had the head skimmed and fitted new bolts guess that what comes of working for main dealers just my opinion not saying its right or wrong to get the head skimmed
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post #79 of 183 (permalink) Old 15-04-2009, 18:29 Thread Starter
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Well, so glad so many people have made use out of this how too that I did a couple of years ago, if it just saved one motorist from scrapping his car, its win win.

As to the above statement, there are of course various points of view on this, however mine is that the head should NEVER be skimmed for the sake of it, as it has a heat proof coating on which would be removed if this action is taken and of course there is only a finite amount of times you can actually skim it before the clearances have been changed catastrophically meaning of course a new head is needed. It's fair to say if you use the older style gaskets, they can fail quite quickly after the refit (I recently purchased two that had gaps in the beading!) meaning if I skimmed it, fitted it and had to skim it again because of the faulty gasket, you could be out of tolerance and need a new head... seems pretty pointless for the sake of it!

You only need to skim a head if it has warped, usually due to over heating, I do think it is a pointless waste of money and totally unnecessary in most cases. i.e. just because you have head gasket failure, doesn't mean the head has over heated and any engineer worth his salt can check if the head is warped.

The key is if you do this job yourself, once the head is off, go and check to make sure the head is ok, if you can afford, get it pressure tested and checked to ensure its not warped or heavily pitted If it is, then and only then get it skimmed.

Still, all this is my own opinion and I don't recognise the need for pointless work being carried out, especially at a time when most people cant afford it.

Thanks again folks

Sean

Last edited by aufo8mycow; 15-04-2009 at 18:40.
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post #80 of 183 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 11:30
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Question smaller headbolts torque settings

i had the head machined but had to pull the head into the 2 halves as the valves were exceeding the surface.
is that understandable? srry, im dutch

Does any one know the torq settings for all the smaller head bolts that keeps the 2 head parts together?
Thnx in advance.
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