How To: Head Gasket Change K Series (Pic Heavy!!) - Page 5 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #81 of 183 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 11:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arie View Post
i had the head machined but had to pull the head into the 2 halves as the valves were exceeding the surface.
is that understandable? srry, im dutch

Does any one know the torq settings for all the smaller head bolts that keeps the 2 head parts together?
Thnx in advance.
Before you go any further, you need to remove the camshaft carrier completely, clean the surfaces and then apply an anaerobic sealant (such as Loctite 574) before bolting down the carrier again.

Have a look at page 8 and page 9 of my HGF thread.
Yep, it has finally happened [picture heavy]
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post #82 of 183 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 11:38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arie View Post
i had the head machined but had to pull the head into the 2 halves as the valves were exceeding the surface.
is that understandable? srry, im dutch

Does any one know the torq settings for all the smaller head bolts that keeps the 2 head parts together?
Thnx in advance.
Do you mean the top part (rocker cover-above spark plugs) - these are 9NM

Camshaft carrier to the head are 10NM IIRC. (I assume this si the two halves you refer to - the camshafts can be rmeoved when this is split in 2)

Head bolts 20NM then 180 turn in sequence, then 180 turn in sequence
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post #83 of 183 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 16:37
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If it has warped to the extent of distorting the valve seats, I would be very concerned that the head is now too soft to use. If there were circular dents around the combustion chambers, I would not reuse it even though it may now look OK.
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post #84 of 183 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 22:23
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thank you guys!!!
Didn;t know bout the sealer.....argh.
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post #85 of 183 (permalink) Old 09-05-2009, 19:59
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changed my head gasket...

and my car ran fine for a day, next day i went to start it and the car turns over but wont start any one had anythig similar happen? just wondering if omeone could point me in the right direction? many thanks. justin
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post #86 of 183 (permalink) Old 09-05-2009, 20:04
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and my car ran fine for a day, next day i went to start it and the car turns over but wont start any one had anythig similar happen? just wondering if omeone could point me in the right direction? many thanks. justin
When you say ran fine for a day, did you start and restart multiple times on that day (from cold). Maybe a sensor is not on correct?,
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post #87 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-05-2009, 15:27
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Advice on what is needed.

I am hoping to attempt to do this in a few weeks time when I get a free weekend. I was wondering if anyone could check the list I have below of the parts needed and see if there is anything that I have missed. Cheers.



Cam Belt
Cam Belt Tensioner http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...#ht_500wt_1182 ?
Head Gasket
Cam Gasket
Rocker Cover Gasket
Sump Gasket
Inlet and Exhaust manifold Gaskets
Gasket Seal?
Water Pump http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...ht_2552wt_1165 ?
Oil Filter
Head Bolts

Haynes Manual

Cleaning stuff for parts that are removed

Are these gasket sets any good http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-K-SERIES...#ht_768wt_1165 or should I stay clear?
The car hasn't over heated and there is no contamination between water and oil yet. so there shouldn't be much damage. I am thinking of changing the water pump while I am at it. Is there anything else I should do while I am at it although I don't want to spend a fortune on it, I might aswell try and do a proper job.

After seeing the guides here I am willing to give it a go and hope for the best. Its a 1997 'R' 216 coupe

Last edited by gibbzy2k1; 12-05-2009 at 15:29. Reason: add car
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post #88 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-05-2009, 16:00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbzy2k1 View Post
I am hoping to attempt to do this in a few weeks time when I get a free weekend. I was wondering if anyone could check the list I have below of the parts needed and see if there is anything that I have missed. Cheers.



Cam Belt
Cam Belt Tensioner http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...#ht_500wt_1182 ?
Head Gasket
Cam Gasket
Rocker Cover Gasket
Sump Gasket
Inlet and Exhaust manifold Gaskets
Gasket Seal?
Water Pump http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...ht_2552wt_1165 ?
Oil Filter
Head Bolts

Haynes Manual

Cleaning stuff for parts that are removed

Are these gasket sets any good http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-K-SERIES...#ht_768wt_1165 or should I stay clear?
The car hasn't over heated and there is no contamination between water and oil yet. so there shouldn't be much damage. I am thinking of changing the water pump while I am at it. Is there anything else I should do while I am at it although I don't want to spend a fortune on it, I might aswell try and do a proper job.

After seeing the guides here I am willing to give it a go and hope for the best. Its a 1997 'R' 216 coupe
I bought a Payen gasket from autobulbsuk on eBay and so far so good. I got my cam belt, tensioner, stretch bolts, water pump and thermostat from them too for a competitive all-in price.

The appropriate locking tools might be a worthwhile purchase

The documentation that comes with the Payen gasket specifically advises to fit the revised oil rail, which is available from Land Rover dealers for around 35. The one I bought was even on the shelf so I didn't have to wait for it to be ordered in. Having seen the contents of my sump, I reckon it'd be worth removing the sump if just to clean it out whilst you have the chance. If you do take the sump off, replacing the oil rail is easy. Pull out one plastic pipe and undo two bolts and you're there.

I took a few pics from my H-G change which are in this thread starting on page 2.
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post #89 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-05-2009, 16:03
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You wont need gasket seal.

The Ebay gaskets are ok, just avoid the ones that include the head bolts as the bolts are very poor. You should be able to reuse the original head bolts but if you must buy new ones I suggest these Payen head bolts on Ebay, the seller is very good. CLICK

Before you go ordering any timing belts and tensioners make sure which one you have fitted to your engine, I would guess that you have the manual tensioner. The tensioner can be easily seen if you remove the upper cambelt cover, the manual tensioner uses a 23mm wide belt and the automatic a 26mm wide belt. Buying a timing belt kit is the cheapest option rather than sourcing the parts seperatly. Here's a link to one which I think will be the automatic tensioner, just double check the part number on the Gates website first though. CLICK

The water pump looks fine.

Get yourself a new thermostat fitted while you're at it. It's far easier to change the stat with the head removed than at any other time, for what a stat costs you would be silly not to change it IMO.

Cant see why you'd need a sump gasket unless you plan on removing the sump to clean out any possible sludge, it's not usually necessary.

One final thing, if the cylinder head does need skimming (only skim if warped) you will need some anaerobic sealant to seal the camshaft carrier down. I used this one: CLICK

For cleaning, grab yourself some Scotch-Brite pads from Asda and plenty of WD40.

Finally, here's a link to my list of parts from when I changed mine, you can also navigate your way to my thread which has loads of info and pictures. CLICK

HTH,
Ian.

Last edited by HotTubRepairer; 13-05-2009 at 02:52. Reason: Adding Link.
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post #90 of 183 (permalink) Old 13-05-2009, 19:03
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Cheers guys, I am going to start getting the parts together over the next couple of weeks. Haven't got a free weekend until June so there is a bit of time.

Just a quick question about the Haynes manual, I know that because I have a late coupe I need two manuals. The bubble shape manual for engine works etc... I have found two today and am wondering what the difference is, if any.

This one which says N-R reg

and this one which says N-V reg

I think that they are the same, just one was released earlier than the other? I am correct and the engine, information will be the same in both or were there some changes made?

Cheers
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post #91 of 183 (permalink) Old 15-05-2009, 15:07
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Unhappy Bit of bad news...

Cheers for all the help and advice guys. Unfortunately I have had an accident and the car will probably be written off. I was looking forward to starting work too... Sad I know.
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post #92 of 183 (permalink) Old 16-05-2009, 16:54
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Quote:
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When you say ran fine for a day, did you start and restart multiple times on that day (from cold). Maybe a sensor is not on correct?,

turns out thye timing went out a little as i left the belt too saggy first time round. took it back apart and readjusted it and its been running like adream since, done 1000 miles since so looks a winner

cheers anyway
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post #93 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-05-2009, 10:43
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I'm hoping for some advice guys, I've taken the head apart, removed the old gasket, checked the head isn't warped etc, but now I've got a couple of questions. I assume I'm going to need to put some kind of sealant on the gaskets before I put everything back together. If so, which is the best one to use? Also what's the best way of cleaning all the gunk from the water pipes? Thirdly is it ok to leave the tappets in place or do I need to take them out and give them a clean?
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post #94 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-05-2009, 11:04
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Originally Posted by Lil_Tammy View Post
I'm hoping for some advice guys, I've taken the head apart, removed the old gasket, checked the head isn't warped etc, but now I've got a couple of questions. I assume I'm going to need to put some kind of sealant on the gaskets before I put everything back together. If so, which is the best one to use? Also what's the best way of cleaning all the gunk from the water pipes? Thirdly is it ok to leave the tappets in place or do I need to take them out and give them a clean?
Only time you need sealant is if you removed the camcarrier from the head (i.e split the head in two, to reveal the camshafts) . If you have done this, then you need a bottle of anaerobic gasket selant, and you need to esnure all old traces of sealant are removed first.

Head gaskets dont need any sealant, they work by compression. (if they dont, then I'm in trouble )

How gunky is the waterway. Jsut try and wash it all out with hot soapy water, using small bottle brushes or pipe cleaners for the relaly small areas.. Bit harder to so in the block though, as itss till on the car! Sometiems its as easy to do that when abck on the car, by flushing with cleaner etc, but depends on how bad it is

I wouldnt have though you woudl need to rmeove the tappets, but then mine ahs never had a BAD HGF with mayo everywhere, so I am not sure
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post #95 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-05-2009, 11:20
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Yeah I have split the head in two. Whoops. The water pipes have gunk stuck to their insides. I've cleaned out what I can reach with my hands and flushed them through with water, but using pipe cleaners is a good idea because I'm worried about the bits I can't see/reach. I'll leave the tappets in place then, and next time I'll know not to take the head apart - I thought I needed to to access the gasket.
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post #96 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-05-2009, 11:29
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Originally Posted by Lil_Tammy View Post
Yeah I have split the head in two. Whoops. The water pipes have gunk stuck to their insides. I've cleaned out what I can reach with my hands and flushed them through with water, but using pipe cleaners is a good idea because I'm worried about the bits I can't see/reach. I'll leave the tappets in place then, and next time I'll know not to take the head apart - I thought I needed to to access the gasket.
Doh!! best to wait for someone elses advice about tappets though. I mean, if you have the camcarrier off anyway, then the tappets just come out easily, so you could always take them out and have a look (remember to put them back in the same valve space they came from)
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post #97 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-05-2009, 11:46
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Doh!! best to wait for someone elses advice about tappets though. I mean, if you have the camcarrier off anyway, then the tappets just come out easily, so you could always take them out and have a look (remember to put them back in the same valve space they came from)
I have 16 plastic pots already numbered and waiting
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post #98 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-05-2009, 11:49
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that brings back memories lol for a hol engine Chang it took me about 5 to 6hours and for a head Chang a week end all cos i have to Waite for the head to get scimed iv worked in all weather conditions
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post #99 of 183 (permalink) Old 19-05-2009, 14:12
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I have 16 plastic pots already numbered and waiting
haha, now that is prepared. I just get a bit of card and draw 16 circles on it. Would be an arse if it was knocked over mind you


One for tappets



One for valves/collets/springs
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post #100 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 07:56
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Big Thankyou to everyone who has contributed here and in the various other HG threads for helping me do my first one during last weekend.
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