How to mod a KV6 Inlet Manifold - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 19:27
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Maybe it's good in the short term to keep in the balance valve at the back until a full modification is finalised. I was told that the balance valve only made a difference at the top end but this could mean torque levels. I was also told that this was the least reliable of the VIS motors.

Thank you for taking the time to explain and post the information. I will +1 you when I get to a pc rather than my phone.
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 19:55
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No worries, mate.

The power valve is the one that operates the arm that operates the butterflies, and the one that breaks.
The balance valve is the second, awkward-to-get-to VIS motor, and joins the two plenums together.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 20:04
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Yeah I know, both have their issues. Fingers crossed we will have a full solution soon that wont cost 500!
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 20:08
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+1
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 20:12
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Cheers bud.
Aye, an alternative to a 500+ replacement part is always welcome, especially as the belts also cost 500+ - these can be expensive cars to maintain when in bad shape, but then, what isn't?
Like I said earlier, I think this thread in combination with the sheddist arm replacement would make a viable alternative to shelling out for a new plenum. I just wish I had a spare plenum to play with.
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 20:18
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Time to resurrect an old one.....

I found this thread using the search function. I've just bought a slightly tired looking ZS 180 for 250, so spending twice the value of the car on a manifold isn't an idea that fills me with excitement!

I have a rolling road dyno at work, and I plan to dyno the car tomorrow (rattling manifold, but feels like it's pulling nicely though I have no comparison as my last ZS was a 120) and I'll do another RR run once I've pulled the valves out.

I'll also offer a free RR run to anyone who has a standard car with the flaps still in place, purely in the interest of balance. I'm based in Fareham, Hampshire.

Cheers
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 13-10-2012, 19:37
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will be interesting to see some before and after dyno results
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 13-10-2012, 22:48
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**Off topic**

Kitch, how much do you charge for a couple runs on the RR/Dyno?
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 13-10-2012, 23:34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudder View Post
**Off topic**

Kitch, how much do you charge for a couple runs on the RR/Dyno?
45 per session, which gets you 3 pulls basically.
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 14-10-2012, 23:13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitch View Post
45 per session, which gets you 3 pulls basically.
Giggity Giggity.
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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 24-11-2012, 15:39
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Ended up ripping the flaps out!

Flaps in but rattling around with broken actuator arm:



Flaps ripped out, but with possible vacuum leak on manifold:



From what I've summised, the flaps will only make a difference to the changeover point where they open at around 4000rpm. At full chat this engine would have no more grunt with a perfect manifold, but the changeover at 3500-4000rpm would be much smoother. On this car, it's like a switch (as you can see in the curves!). It's like VTEC. 500 for a new mani, or pull the flaps out I wouldn't even think twice about pulling them out!

That's the conclusion I've come to.
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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 28-11-2012, 22:45
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Over on the 75 & ZT club we had a recent rolling road day and got some interesting results from the V6s with regards to the operation and effects of VIS motors.
I've just pasted the graphs in there as there's a revisit planned shortly to conduct more tests about how different scenarios affect performance.
I gained 2.5bhp by replacing a dud balance VIS with a fresh one.
We have a manifold deflapped but not yet resealed, i plan to run this on my car for the test.
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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2013, 11:21
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ressurecting an old thread here,, sorry... ive just removed my intake as it was rattling like mad on my zt-t 190.. ive opened the manifold and removed the butterfly valves and operating arm,,, but im wondering what to do with the balance valve flap, do i leave it as is?,or do i lock it in the closed position or fully open position?? any advice would be greatly recieved.. cheers dt
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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 29-04-2014, 19:14
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hi i have the same problem the rattle dose it work removing the inside of the inlet manifold thanks roger
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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 18-01-2015, 18:50
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Hi all,

Ive the same problem in Freelander 2.5V6 (KV6 engine). After open the intake manifold and hold the butterflies, the noise (rattle) went away

My post in brazilian forum: http://www.4x4brasil.com.br/forum/la...o-que-nao.html


Thanks.
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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 15:15
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Angry mg zs butterfly's repair

Stew I am disabled but I would like this done but cannot would you be interested in doing the job, if so how much would you charge, thanx, dave.
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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 21-11-2016, 20:41
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Hi. Followed everything above and removed all the butterfly valves from my ZS180, and at same time changed all spark plugs. It seemed fine, but after being driven for about 8 miles, and warming up, engine started surging / revving on it's own. It's off back to our local garage tomorrow for a diagnostic read, but would be grateful if you could share ideas on why it might be doing that. It's a great motor, but cant afford to spend much to keep it on the road.

Hope you guys can give me some direction into what could be wrong :-(

Cheers


Mike
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