Rover 200 / 400 Rover 200/400 - My heater Fan doesn't work on speeds 1,2 & 3 - "How Do I?" - Page 3 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #41 of 768 (permalink) Old 05-04-2005, 20:24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wob
On the basis that the original resistors are gigantic, open, wire wound resistors that are designed to have lots of air freely moving across them, if I replace them with more conventional resistors as suggested above will this not cause a heat dissipation problem as the resistors will not have as much surface area but will still have a high amount of heat coming out of them???

Obviously there isn't much room for air to move very well, so I am concerned that I'll end up burning out more resistors (which could be why the original broke in the first place).... Not that it really matters at the cost of a couple of resistors every couple of years....

The design of the fan housing means that the resistors are cooled by the airflow generated by the fan itself.

The resistors used are designed to dissipate 10 watts @ 70deg.c....IIRC the measurements I made had one of the resistors dissipating 8 watts when the fan was on position 3, the body of the resistor only reached 36deg.c in the airstream.

You could of course be ultra-cautious and use 17 watt resistors, they are longer but will fit in the housing.
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post #42 of 768 (permalink) Old 06-04-2005, 00:30
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Right. All done and all working. Thank you for all your help. Fantastic how to.

I fitted 10watt (1ohm) resistors with some clever thingymabob in them that allows them to automatically drop their power rating if they get way too hot.

Basically, they are 10 watts when they are at 25 degrees C and when they reach 75 degrees C they will have dropped down to about 8.5 watts (I think that's what the guy in the shop said anyhow). It seems to be working fine and that's all that matters

to Rover... They wanted to charge me 76 quid to fix it!!!
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post #43 of 768 (permalink) Old 29-04-2005, 09:03
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i have found some 1ohm 50watt will these do the job. 50watt should be ok i think as they will run a bit cooler. well thats my thinking anyway, Heres the link http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1
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post #44 of 768 (permalink) Old 29-04-2005, 15:34
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They will work....

The increased power rating doesn't mean they will run any cooler, aluminium clad resistors normally have to be attached to a heatsink to achieve their rated power dissipation.
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post #45 of 768 (permalink) Old 03-05-2005, 11:38
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yes it worked. a bit of a tight fit. but IT WORKED...... hehehe cheers for the info
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post #46 of 768 (permalink) Old 08-06-2005, 14:41
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Same problem, different model

I have a 100, heating only works on 3. Is the same thing needed, and is it in the same place? Cheers.
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post #47 of 768 (permalink) Old 16-06-2005, 00:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technozen
tutorial.

It can be downloaded here.


Can I just clarify form your word doc. When you say "fit the resistors but say dont allow any bare wires form resistors to touch another one", I presume all the ressitors are 'linked' to each other through the 'eyelets'.

Sorry, just a complete novice at electronics!
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post #48 of 768 (permalink) Old 03-07-2005, 17:38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragor
I have a 100, heating only works on 3. Is the same thing needed, and is it in the same place? Cheers.
No the one on the R100 is in the engine bay next to the heater intake, but it works in the same way. But its best to try and get the correct part from rover for the R100
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post #49 of 768 (permalink) Old 07-07-2005, 13:31
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My new resistors arrived in the post today.

The problem I've now got is that the connections on the resistors are quite short, and without dismantling the car (have only just got in from work) I'm not sure I'm going to be able to make them fit. What is the best method for legthening them, or should I construct some sort of frame to carry them, and use normal electrical wire to make the connections?
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post #50 of 768 (permalink) Old 04-11-2005, 21:02
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resistance is futile....

Hi.Sorry to sound so silly,but could someone post a pic of the resistors viewed from above.I've got the maplins type and intend to do this job asap but I'm unsure of how they are linked.Is a wire from the top of each resistor connected to the base of the next one in line.Its hard to tell from the pix(sorry)
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post #51 of 768 (permalink) Old 04-11-2005, 23:28
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The attached picture should explain how the resistors connect to the terminals...
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post #52 of 768 (permalink) Old 06-11-2005, 11:33
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Thanks technozen.A very clear diagram.I took a chance and wired it up yesterday morning anyway,puting the resistors on the left and right sides to the front on your picture,with the last one to the rear left side.I had to take some wire from an old extension lead that was gathering dust in the garage and extend the connections on the left rear and right front to get them to join,but it works a treat.This was my first attempt at soldering,so I'm pretty pleased with the results.I'd hate to see what a dealer would have charged for this.....
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post #53 of 768 (permalink) Old 06-11-2005, 18:49
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Glad you got it sorted.

These resistors should last a lot longer than the originals.....
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post #54 of 768 (permalink) Old 29-11-2005, 11:33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wob
Right. All done and all working. Thank you for all your help. Fantastic how to.

I fitted 10watt (1ohm) resistors with some clever thingymabob in them that allows them to automatically drop their power rating if they get way too hot.

Basically, they are 10 watts when they are at 25 degrees C and when they reach 75 degrees C they will have dropped down to about 8.5 watts (I think that's what the guy in the shop said anyhow). It seems to be working fine and that's all that matters

to Rover... They wanted to charge me 76 quid to fix it!!!
Oh dear oh dear oh dear.... Well, my fix has lasted about 7 months before going again...

Will try some different resistors this time to see if I get any further joy. Still not too bothered on the basis that it is costing me pence and time to repair.
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post #55 of 768 (permalink) Old 29-11-2005, 15:53
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I would try getting the correct resistors, the only reason they would go open circuit is if they were too low as regards power rating...

My original "modification" is still working fine.
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post #56 of 768 (permalink) Old 02-12-2005, 23:57
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Mine went today!!

So I followed my tutorial..!

I have changed the resistor values to give a smoother series of speed steps... closer to the OE values.

A 1.5 ohm, 0.68 ohm and a 0.22 ohm.

This also increases the lower 2 speeds, position 1 was far too slow when using the original "all same" value.

Last edited by technozen; 15-11-2008 at 16:40.
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post #57 of 768 (permalink) Old 08-12-2005, 10:41
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Which resistors of the above mentioned give you the closest fan speed for each position to that of the original coils ??
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post #58 of 768 (permalink) Old 08-12-2005, 10:56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leegt5
Which resistors of the above mentioned give you the closest fan speed for each position to that of the original coils ??
One of each value above, instead of three 1 ohm or three 1.5 ohm.
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post #59 of 768 (permalink) Old 08-12-2005, 11:16
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But theres only a 1.0 ohm and a 1.5 ohm listed.. could you list a definitive list of 3 resistors that will replicate how the coils worked !!
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post #60 of 768 (permalink) Old 08-12-2005, 11:57
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just had a go at mine, all I did was to re-attach the broken coil and it worked, yippee, no more gails , don't how long for though, not to keen on paying 5 delivery for a 25 p resistor from maplins

Last edited by mercodus; 08-12-2005 at 12:02.
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