Rover 75 Dismantle Front - Fix Radiator Fan - without disturbing AC - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 15-04-2006, 06:34
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Do I only need to remove and refit the bumper to close the gap under the bonnet?? Is it easy? It looks quite simple....
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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 16-04-2006, 14:48
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Hello

Just unscrew all the screws at the top of the bumper one by one and put a think washer from B&Q etc under the plastic bumper and slam plate!

Just hold the bumper from the number plate and pull up!


You can do the same to raise the grill but its but more tricky!
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-05-2006, 00:16
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Excellent article, I want to have a go at fitting a new horn on my ZT. Does anyone know of any problems that I could encounter with a 54MY ZT as I have Xenons with washers on the lights.

I do know that I have to take the front off, do I need to remove the bumper as well or can I get to the horn without touching that actual bumper?
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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-06-2006, 20:46
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Exclamation Cooling Fan Noisy when turning left and on breaking hard

Has anyone come across this problem. I have a Rover 75 1.8T the car is quiet until the cooling fan comes on, I have taken it to a rover dealer who said it was due to the high speed the fan rotates. But they only tested it in a stationary position. The problem I have is when the cooling fan is running and I drive over a speed hump, be it slowly, as the car front wheels pass over the hump the fan makes a funny noise as if it is catching on somthing, also the same noise but louder when I make a sherp left hand turn. (Not on a RH turn). any suggestions.

Will... this was a very useful How To.

Regards DJ
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 27-11-2006, 13:40
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Will, fantastic how to... I used this to strip the front off my 75 and it was spot on mate.

Thanks for taking the time to write it up, its no doubt helped many more novices like myself!!!

Thanks again Will

JOHN
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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 09:04
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FANTASTIC article. Firt time I am on this forum and very impressed.
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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 24-07-2007, 23:43
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Radiator Change

Hi Guys

Need to change the radiator on Rover 75 2.0 V6. Is there a quicker / easier alternative to the process described above?
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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 15-08-2007, 00:41
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Talking easier?

Take it to a garage
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 21-07-2008, 14:27
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Smile Excellent How-to Guide

Will

Absolutely excellent how-to guide. Thanks a million.

Just to add a bit of info: When pulling the off-side (reasonably gently) one of the three teeth (on a white plastic piece that connects to the wing) broke off. So now there will be 2 teeth to hold the side of the bumper (as well as the bolt that is at the top of the wheel arch splashguard). As I have also lost a good few teeth without obvious ill effects, I am assuming this will be ok???

Thanks again.

Tom

'02 Rover 75 CDT Classic SE Tourer
+
Recently acquired '03 CDT Connie Tourer

Last edited by Connoisseur; 21-07-2008 at 14:34.
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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 27-06-2010, 06:52
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I know this is an old thread, but just a quick post to say thanks, this was very helpful. Took me a while, but it all seems to work ok now.

New fan assembly from Jules seems to work a treat.
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post #31 of 46 (permalink) Old 18-07-2010, 19:23
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I used this walk through and was a massive help for sure.
So big thanks to will for creating this.

A couple of notes to others.


I have a rover 75 2.5 connoisseur year 2001.

I put my rover on ramps and using the walk through managed to replace the fan without disconnecting anything from the bumper, I just dropped it down to the floor and it was fine. You have to be careful though as it is at your feet. I also managed to do this without disconnecting any of the bonnet latches. I just removed the left and right screws from the cross member, un clipped the bonnet pull cable splitter from the side and rested the cross member on top of the engine.

Another note that when removing my fan blades I had a socket on the centre nut and turned the blades with my hand clockwise, Will states anti clockwise but I nearly broke mine thinking it was just tight. I have no idea if these fans a were made clockwise and anti clockwise fitting.

Also my fan cowling would not remove because the ac pipes locate through the cowling so would not come off without de-gassing and removing the pipes.
I was not prepared to do this so I just cut slots with tin snips next to the pipes. This still did not allow me to remove the fan cowling but what it did do was give me enough movement to enable me to lift the cowling over the top posts then I was able to pull out the right hand side of the cowling.
The fan itself is screwed on from the back so was a pain as the screws were rusted solid so I had to drill them out. I had to use a dewalt right angle drill for this due to insufficient space between the cowling and the ac rad.

My fan never came with the holes tapped either which I thought was a bit odd so I had to tap them 6mm myself.

over all though I found this a fairly easy job but just needs a little patience due to rusty screws, torx screws which in my opinion are just a complete waste of steel and its these I found the worst, was only a few of them though.

Took me around 3 hours to complete start to finish and I have never done this before. I did take on the advice of putting a couple of washers under the bumper screws to take up the redid gap problem and seems to work a treat.
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post #32 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-08-2010, 18:10
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First off , like the others , congratulations on a first rate how to , had the front of the car off twice now , second time got it down to about 40 mins...thought I might add a couple of pointers from personal experience...
1.I'm about to invest in a drill adapter (so you can put the sockets onto the drill)which I think will cut the time down a lot and
2. had a major problem getting the fan out....comes from having 124k on the clock i think, rusted in and would not move for love or a ton of money , used a hobby power tool to cut the heads off the screws.....this is what took most of my time , started this morning at 7.30 ..finished about 12.30 back together..as i said , took 40 mins to take everything off..work it out!! not nice...good luck to all....
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post #33 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-08-2010, 15:26
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Thanks all. Just waiting for my new fan to arrive from Jules Violin, Doublebass.....(Cello, Viola...?) before the fun starts. Presume everyone is using the original fan blades; please let me know!
Thanks,
Mike.
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post #34 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 21:34
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I was lucky enough to find someone who could repair my motor but I'm using original fan blades myself , dont see why not....
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post #35 of 46 (permalink) Old 13-08-2010, 16:46
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The story so far!

It's not going very well really.
Bumper off no problem, what a lovely clip and easy to pull off headlamp washer connection!


But then as Jules said in his note accompanying the new fan the air duct was - no rhyming word to follow! This was made of a matted material reinforced by wire. I think it was supposed to screw off but I had to resort to tin snips.



Now, Jules, being a good chap, had supplied part numbers, telephone number and prices but being impatient and as it was raining off to B&Q to purchase...........



Actually, I purchased a lot more, not knowing what I needed. The picture shows what you need - two downpipes because you have to have two ribbed ends for connecting purposes and the 67.5 degree angle. Then you cut them to size and hey presto!



Jules advises that the pipe should be replaced to avoid spray entering the air filter from below the car. I reckon this fits the bill and must be better than the perished duct!

Now the trouble begins as it is time to remove the two Torx screws holding the plastic radiator brackets. I even half-heartedly sprayed them with penetrating oil first and made sure I hammered the T20 bit home before beginning. Shear joy on both heads. I am cuerrently writing this post as it is raining and I am half way (I hope) through drilling the heads off. Since they screw onto a quite wide round plastic circular lip I am also contemplating and musing on the other option of just cutting neatly or melting around the circumference of the bolt head. This should allow the bracket to be pushed off before then putting the mole wrench on the offending bolts and giving them payback time. On refitting the enlarged hole could be covered by a wide washer methinks. Rain has stopped but enough for one day; perhaps some kind soul will advise further overnight!

Mike.

Last edited by mikefarnham; 13-08-2010 at 17:06.
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post #36 of 46 (permalink) Old 14-08-2010, 11:30
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Decision time

So, up early on Saturday and off again to B&Q to buy sharp drill bit, hole saw and Dremel kit in order to cover all bases! In the end the 16mm hole saw wad just too small so I ended up drilling small holes around the torx bolt - as close together as you can with your thinnest bit. The gas solder iron was a good idea in theory but in practice it was unnecessary; just "cut" the perforations using a thin flat scewdriver hit by a hammer. If you try a stanley knife instead keep a count of how many blades you break getting nowhere!



Now for some reason I kept my cross member connected to the bonnet locking platform which saved time but made the job a bit more awkward single handed which lost time. Anyhow I was a bit stymied by not understanding how the clips retaining the bonnet cables worked so here it is:



Annoyingly the left mechanism cable was trapped behind one of the headlamp bolts so I had to loosen it. I strongly suggest before you get to this bit you put some masking tape on the front points of the wings to protect your paintwork. This was particularly worthwhile whilst struggling with the horn/bonnet open warning power cable. Before tackling the fan I decided to put penetrating oil on the underside of the aforementioned torx bolts. I may just leave these in because the radiator brackets will just slide back over the top of them. also, for security's sake, there are drilled holes either side across which a metal strip could be fixed to hold the in place. We will see.

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post #37 of 46 (permalink) Old 14-08-2010, 17:47
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Last Lap

O.K. nearly there. Time for the radiator cowling. My model is a late 2003 Tourer Connoisseur SE 2.5 and it had no bottom fixing bolts although I spent some time looking for them!! You will probably need to drop the front of the undertray where you will find two clips attaching the cowling to the bottom of the radiator. just prise them off carefully with a screwdriver. The rectangular cutouts are frontmost.



Then on to slicing the cowling by both air con pipes to allow it to both be lifted up and over the prangs (hence the cuts belowthe pipes to allow it to rise) and away from the pipes. actually I had little luck with the tin snips so nibbled away with pliers; not a pretty job and I had to remove quite a lot of plastic.



Just to make it crystal clear about removing the fan blades because clockwise and anti clockwise are dependent on which side you are looking from - rest the assembly with the motor at the back on the floor. The 15mm nut needs to be uppermost. You need quite a thin socket to fit in the recess. Hold the blades using gloves so they do not cut you and turn the nut one quarter turn anticlockwise; alternatively hold the nut syill and turn the blades clockwise which effectively, of course is the same thing! It is a force/interference fit and not particularly tight. I was advised to use instant gasket that sets soft between the mating surfaces upon reassembly. Halfords had no Blue hylomar so I used theirs which effectively turned out to be transparent silicone. Just make sure before you start reassembly that you use cable ties to stop the wires flapping about. You neither want them fouling the fan nor chaffing the radiator and causing l leak. Reassembly tomorrow after a beer and the late match second half!

Mike.
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post #38 of 46 (permalink) Old 15-08-2010, 14:22
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First job this morning:



Undid sweet as a (captuerd) nut!

So on reassembly no more Torx:



The air became somewhat blue with the last few jobs - self tappers not quite finding their targets in the undertray and the bumper wings not slotting in easily near where the wheelarch top bolt secures all. All done then except the bonnet will not shut. Now I had read the horror stories about them not opening but not closing was new to me. I had tugged the release latch just to make sure the cable was running and second job earlier this morning had been to make sure the cables ran very smoothly and were clipped carefully into place.

Well, well, well!
I wrote a new post and James told me to do the bonnet mod when sorted and whilst I was reading it Rover reported:

On checking a little further I found that the two retaining bolts on each Bonnet Lock were tightened so that the rotating discs inside were very stiff. As an exercise I tightened these bolts a little further & found that this completely seized the locks so that no amount of pulling on the handle would activate the locks.
The remedy was to set the bolts at a low torque & apply Nutloc so that they will not move, the locks now rotate very easily.
I suspect that these bolts were torqued up the same as the 13 that retain the Grille to the Slam Panel on build,as I purchased the car new & had never had reason to touch these previously. I think this could contribute to the high incidence of Jammed Bonnets we see reported.
If these bolts are overtightened no amount of greasing will overcome the problem.

So I slackened all four bonnet release mechanism bolts and problem solved. I also did the bonnet mod (two minute job) to make sure it never gets stuck either.

Hope your job goes even easier with all the information in this thread.

Mike.
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post #39 of 46 (permalink) Old 30-12-2010, 07:22
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Nice air duct, this has made my morning with a little chuckle at the improvisation there.

Odd thing is, my air duct was the same but i never replaced it. Now Iím sure i have some drain pipe in the garage somewhere!!!


C
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post #40 of 46 (permalink) Old 17-05-2011, 17:25
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Talking Radiator fan motor brushes replaced.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Will View Post
With access to the fan motor from behind the fan assembly you can either
  1. Replace the fan motor by removing the 3 torx screws that attach it to the assembly.
  2. Access the fan motor relay pack
  3. Lubricate the fan motor and its connectors (I used white grease)
In most cases lubricating is not enough.

I just have repair my fan motor by replacing motor brushes. My fan don't work on 1 and second speed. They are 4 in total but i did only two as the other two was very good.
Having fan dismantled take my 1/2 h to fix.
Brushes wire need to by GOOD soldered as dismantling everything to repeat the operation is not easy.
Tricky part is back cover of the motor because of fitting mode. I have cut twisted parts of fittings with angle grander, after closing twist rest overs back and secure with small screws(fixed/ tighten cover mounting hole's to outer side motor body).
Now fan is working as new and I have 200 in pocket .
Will attach photos but can't upload any .
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