Sloppy PG1 Gear Linkage - How To fix it! - Page 5 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #81 of 224 (permalink) Old 29-03-2008, 11:59 Thread Starter
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yes and yes.

But check sizes before cutting. Different UJ's have different hole sizes. The one I used fitted perfectly, but I dont know about other models.
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post #82 of 224 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 03:02
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I have just finished today changing the U-J on my Rover 220 SLi (1994) and IT IS AMAZING how well it works now. Before I had so much play that I had to press the gearstick againt the seats left&right and it was very distracting while driving and shifting gears. Thanks to this tutorial I was able to do it without hesitation.
The donor car was a 1995 Honda CIVIC 1.6. This car has the exact same one as it is on the tutorial.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Now, I have noticed a tiny little vibration coming through the gearstick (when it is not in neutral) and the black bushes (circular ones at the bottom of the gearstick as we can see on the tutorial picture)on mine are broken. Where can I get some new ones?
What are those bushes for? To stop vibrations?
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post #83 of 224 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 22:34
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Right, a mechanic looked at mine today and said the link arm was too wide to fit the steering u/j off a 420. Any suggestions. Are the 2ltr petrol and diesel cars fitted with a thicker link arm. Anyone know if the arms are different or standard. I take it I have a pg1 'box. '98 420 gsi
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post #84 of 224 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 07:14
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Which cars exactly can these U/J's be taken from ? Can they come from a 200 wedge or only the 200 bubble ? Thanks.
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post #85 of 224 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 11:41
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The 2ltr 'box gear linkages are specific to 2ltr cars. 400's, 45's, and zs up to 2004.
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post #86 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-04-2008, 16:34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnthemilk View Post
The 2ltr 'box gear linkages are specific to 2ltr cars. 400's, 45's, and zs up to 2004.
Pardon ?
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post #87 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-04-2008, 18:29
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The 200/400 wedge doesn't seem to have a suitable joint.

Obviously the Mk3 200/25/ZR has the joint, but the 400/45/ZS seems to have a very similar part at the same place, ie. where the end of the column connects to the steering rack.

My only reference is the parts diagram, someone would have to try that joint.

Hang on her 400 is in the drive......

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post #88 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-04-2008, 18:38
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Yep, it has the exact same U/J as the Mk3 200.

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post #89 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-04-2008, 21:40
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Picked up a 2nd hand selector rod today. I'm going to get the end machined to fit the steering u/j. My u/j is off a 420, which looks the same as the ones in the previous pictures.
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post #90 of 224 (permalink) Old 10-04-2008, 04:32
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Thanks both for that info.
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post #91 of 224 (permalink) Old 10-04-2008, 13:45
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I decided to bite the bullet and take mine apart today, ready for the UJ fix. However, I've got two problems. One is that the roll pin won't shift. I've broken two drill bits trying to drill through it and collapse it. Also it's fitted from the top not the side as shown in the w'shop manual. I'm running out of ideas as to how remove it.

However, the bigger issue is that on my June 1999 420 GSi TD 105, the selector shaft is 22mm. So unless I can find a UJ that has 22 at one end and 14 at the other, I'm stuffed. Has anyone found such a U/J?

I can't afford to have the car off the day for more than a couple of days so am thinking that unfortunately I might have to buy a new shaft. If I do, how do you fit the roll pin from the top? Can the input shaft twist round? Do you fit the pin from the bottom with the selector shaft round the wrong way and then turn the whole shaft around?

Tks for any suggestions.

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post #92 of 224 (permalink) Old 10-04-2008, 17:09
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My local Rover parts suppliers quoted me a price of 46 plus vat for the selector rod. I have a 2nd hand one that I'm going to fit (must be better than whats on it now), then I'm going to have a 16mm steel rod welded to my original, then fit this, with the steering u/j. By doing it this way it should make up for the offset on the original u/j.
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post #93 of 224 (permalink) Old 10-04-2008, 20:07
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46 plus VAT???? Who is your dealer? I've just been quoted 175 + VAT!!! Is there something weird about the selector rod on 1999 diesels like mine?

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post #94 of 224 (permalink) Old 20-04-2008, 17:45
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If the hinge pin locations in the gear shaft Universal Joint look like this:




Note elongated wear in hinge pin holes ......then your gear lever will be very sloppy and in an extreme case, gears 1,2,5 and reverse will be difficult to select. Those 3 or 4mm of wear 'play' will be much magnified at the gear lever in the car.

Here's few pictures of a simple modification I have now fitted to three 620ti which had sloppy gear levers ~ one so bad that the previous owner destroyed the wood effect surround because he had to move the lever so wide that it broke the trim.

First I cut off the worn U-J close to the end of the shaft:



Then using one of the TWO U-Js from either end of a Montego or Maestro intermediate steering column shaft, weld that to the shaft end having first measured carefully the length needed and correct angle so that it will locate properly on the input shaft on the PG1 gearbox. Using these U-Js eliminates the need to use those difficult to remove and sometimes fit the roll pins. By the way, the Non-PAS Maestros and Montegos will provide TWO suitable U-Js, then PAS cars only one as their U-Js are a larger size where it locates on the steering rack.

Close up of the U-J welded to the shaft:



A quick work over with the wire brush then a lick of paint:



Then fit to car:



Note: the relative angle of offset involved is 45 Degrees.

Having fitted this modified U-J linkage to three cars now I can confirm the improvement in the gear lever action is so good, it's no exaggeration to say better than new.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #95 of 224 (permalink) Old 20-04-2008, 21:59
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That's where I'm trying to go with mine at the moment. Local welders wouldn't do it in case it came apart and the rod dropped and dug into the road.
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post #96 of 224 (permalink) Old 20-04-2008, 22:06
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Are the two welded rods hollow, or is the short one solid, welded to a hollow selector rod. The more info I can give to a welder the better.
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post #97 of 224 (permalink) Old 02-09-2008, 18:07
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sorry to bring this thread back form the dead but............ ill be doin this mod soon and just need to confirm that the u/j off a zr will do the job....
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post #98 of 224 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 08:05 Thread Starter
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The dimensions of the selector rod and gearbox rod are mentioned somewhere previously in this thread - any UJ that conforms to those sizes will do.

If you use the MGJohn approach (which needs to be welded) then any size UJ that matches the Gearbox rod diameter will do, as the other end is irrelevant, being welded, rather than clamped to the gearshift rod.
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post #99 of 224 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 11:19
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welding isnt rally an option for me...

im still confused as to which cars ahve the 16mm shaft.....and which cars have the u/j with 2 14mm's and which cars have the u/j with 1 14mm and 1 16mm

can anyone suggest which joint my 25 gti would need and which car to get it off?

best off measuring the rods first....then go to the breakers and hunt out a suitable u/j?

Last edited by skrib; 03-09-2008 at 11:24.
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post #100 of 224 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 12:02
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Can you get under the car and measure the diameter of the linkage rod and gearbox shaft?

I took a U/J from a Mk3 200 and found it fitted the gearbox fine but I had to reduce the diameter of the linkage rod for it to fit.

Edit; I would expect your linkage to be the same as mine.

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