General Torque Wrench Settings and Other Information about Bolts - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-12-2010, 20:14 Thread Starter
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Torque Wrench Settings and Other Information about Bolts

K Series bolt Torques




Inlet manifold fixings (Plastic)............17 Nm
Inlet manifold fixings (Aluminium)......25 Nm
Exhaust manifold nuts.......................45 Nm


Head bolt tightening additional info:
It might be worthwhile repeating the 20Nm
initial tightening step due to relaxation while
the remainder of the bolts are being tightened.



Head Bolt Tightening Sequence



Cam Carrier Tightening Sequence
Set camshaft drive pin positions first -
Inlet 4 o'clock. Exhaust 8 o'clock.



Cam Cover Tightening Sequence



Torque Wrenches and Sockets.
From the list above you can see that perhaps the most useful torque wrench to own is a 10-80Nm range 3/8" drive rather than the more common 28-210Nm 1/2" drive. However, both will be required to cover the entire range. In either case, only hexagonal sockets should be used where possible to protect the small headed flange fixings from rounding off. Never use an open ended spanner or adjustable if you can possibly avoid it.


A wrench like this will be adequate and...... Hexagonal Socket.
costs around 25.



How to use the Wrench
No, it is not as stupid as the title suggests! You can get the wrong result by using the wrong technique when using a "break back" type torque wrench rather than the dial indicator or pointer and scale type. This is particularly true with the low cost wrenches. These can be made to give a high torque if load is applied very gently or a low torque if snatched. What you are after is a nice smooth, even pull at moderate speed.

Surely that's not Tight Enough?
In general, the torques specified by Rover were rather conservative and were designed to protect threads from a worst case scenario, this is why some will feel less tight than you might expect. However, these are the torques used for production engine build and have been proved to work so there should be no need to give it "a bit more for luck!"

Respect.

Generally people do not seem to treat the engine's fasteners with the same respect as other components. They are frequently left in a dirty and corroded condition quite unlike any of the other engine parts that are treated to cleaning, oiling and even painting before being reused. This is odd considering the critical importance of these parts.
The specified torques only apply to clean, lightly oiled bolts. If most of the effort is being used to overcome friction, the resulting clamping load will be low. All fixings should be stored in good conditions and must be cleaned and oiled before fitting!

Thread Loc.
Before refitting bolts that use a locking patch such as flywheel and tensioner bolts the threads must first be cleaned of old material before applying a drop or two of Thread Loc. The female thread can be cleaned using an old bolt with a slot cut down the length of the thread with a hack saw. Male thread can be cleaned using a wire brush.

Yield Tightening (Stretch Bolts)
Bolts such as the head bolts and big end bolts are given an initial torque to settle the joint into a starting position and are then tightened using an angle to give a known amount of extension. This takes the bolt to the point at which it just begins to stretch so the clamping load produced depends only upon the material properties and dimensions. The advantage of this method is that variables such as friction and torque wrench accuracy are eliminated.
It is a common misconception that all bolts tightened using this method should be replaced. However, the amount of stretch that they are subjected to is often minimal and longer bolts such as the K head bolts have plenty in reserve for reuse. Best thing to do is to go by the Service recommendation.

Studs.
Studs and nuts are often used to assist in the fitting of components such as manifolds. The component and its gaskets are located by the studs while the other fixings are being inserted. The studs will often come out of the casting when its nut is undone and will have to be refitted. This can be done by locking two nuts together so that a spanner can be used. The torque used is not critical, but they should be reasonably tight, but no more than the nut that is to be fitted. Note that they often have different thread pitch on either end with the coarse thread going into the aluminium casting.


Two nuts locked together for stud tightening.

Last edited by 1955diesel; 22-06-2011 at 15:53.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 31-12-2010, 12:44
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Post Spanner Sizes for Rover 25

Alternator..................15.13.10.8mm
Air Filter Housing............8mm
Air Temp Sensor...........19mm
Armrest..........................7.8.10mm
Bonnet Catch.................10mm
Boot Catch.....................10mm
Battery Bracket..............13mm
BatteryTerminals...........13mm
Brake Caliper.................12mm
Brake Pipes and Bleed..7/16..10mm
Ball Joint.......................17.19.22mm
Coolant Tank hose........6.8mm
Coolant Elbow...............8mm
Coolant Bottle................8mm
Coolant Bleed Screw.....8mm
Coolant Temp Sensor...19mm
Cambelt Cover...............8.10mm
Crankshaft Bolt..............22mm..7/8

Cam Tensioner..............8key..8mm
Cam Sprockets.............17mm
Cam Carrier...................8mm
Cylinder Head Cover......8mm
Cylinder Head Bolts.......E12 Torx
Distributor Cap...............7mm
Engine Mount.................15.18mm
Exhaust Manifold............17mm
Electric Windows...........8mm
Front Bumper.................10mm
Fuel Filter........................14.19.8mm
Fuel Inlet Union................8mm
Gearbox Drain/Fill...........17mm
Glovebox.........................8mm
Handbrake Adj................12mm
Injector Unit.....................13mm
Idle Air Control Valve..T20.T30.10mm
Lambda Sensor..............22mm

Lights..................8mm (rear)
PAS Brackets.8.13.10.11mm
Radiator Hoses...........7mm
Rotor Arm...................8mm
Roof Spoiler..............10mm
Seats...............10mm (rear)
Seat Frame....Star 50 (front)
Sparkplugs Socket.....16mm
Sump Plug...........19mm ring
Sump Bolts.................10mm
Starter Motor...............13mm
Track Rod ...17.19.22.32mm
Wheel Nuts.................19mm
Washer bottle.............10mm
Water Pump............8.13mm
Wiper Arms................13mm
Wiper Motor Front..10.13mm

Last edited by 1955diesel; 10-01-2011 at 19:50.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 21-01-2011, 20:39
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Arrow Service tools

It may be helpful to the list of tools.



http://www.mgfcar.de/tools/index.html

Last edited by Blueser; 11-02-2011 at 12:28. Reason: larger image inserted
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 18-03-2011, 12:38 Thread Starter
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New MLS Head Gasket Leaks?

There have been a number of reports recently of newly fitted MLS gaskets suffering from external coolant leaks. These seem to be restricted to non branded gaskets and may be due to relaxation of the gasket causing the clamping load to reduce.

For this reason, I have added a note to the bolt torque list suggesting that the initial tightening of 20Nm is rechecked before continuing to the angle tightening part of the procedure.

If you are unfortunate enough to have a new gasket that leaks, a member of the forum has successfully fixed his by retightening the bolts. This would normally be a very bad idea, but there is little to lose if you have this problem. I would suggest that the bolts are all tightened by a further 45 degrees in sequence. This should be enough to get them back to their yield point, but not so much that they break. This is pure speculation on my part and I don't give any guarantees as to what the result may be!


Update: the retightened head gasket mentioned above is still leak free.

Last edited by 1955diesel; 31-07-2011 at 19:50.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 27-10-2011, 16:54
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Torque Conversion

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm

Last edited by Blueser; 27-10-2011 at 17:04.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 17:01
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Arrow Cylinder head bolts inspection

CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS INSPECTION

  1. Retain bolts in fitted order
  2. Wash all bolt, wipe dry and lightly oil threads
Cylinder head bolts may be re-used provided they pass one of the following tests.


Test with cylinder head removed
  1. Carefully enter head bolts in their original fitted location, DO NOT DROP. Screw each bolt by hand into oil rail.
  2. Measure distance from cylinder block face to under bolt head A in ilustration:
97 mm or less. Bolt may be re-used.
Over 97 mm. New bolt must be used.


Test with oil rail removed
  1. Ensuring cylinder head bolts are in their
    original fitted location. Screw each bolt by hand into oil rail.
  2. If full length of thread is engaged. Bolt may be re-used.
  3. If full length of thread is not engages, measure distance from top face of oil rail to under bo;t head B in ilustration:
378 mm or less. bolt may be re-used.
Over 378 mm. New bolt must be used.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 28-12-2011, 14:09
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ok ive got a problem on a Rover 200 8v 1999 , i understand the head torque setting but how do i no if they been done right ?
Example ...... i had my headgasket replaced only 3 mths ago and was replaced with a multi layer gasket which ever one told me would solve my problem even if the head didnt get skimed but now im leaking water again into my engine oil
Question is there a final torque setting that i can use to check this out or do i have undo and start agian provided the bolts are ok ?
BTW this is the 3rd gasket that has gone on the car im begining to think it not worth sorting out any more any help or advise would be gratefull
cheers Scott
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 31-12-2011, 16:05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydooo View Post
ok ive got a problem on a Rover 200 8v 1999 , i understand the head torque setting but how do i no if they been done right ?
Example ...... i had my headgasket replaced only 3 mths ago and was replaced with a multi layer gasket which ever one told me would solve my problem even if the head didnt get skimed but now im leaking water again into my engine oil
Question is there a final torque setting that i can use to check this out or do i have undo and start agian provided the bolts are ok ?
BTW this is the 3rd gasket that has gone on the car im begining to think it not worth sorting out any more any help or advise would be gratefull
cheers Scott
In short. Tightening the surface of cylinder head and engine block must be "ideal" straight and clean. Check the cylinder head is cracked or porous. Then tighten the screws as per specification mentioned above.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 10:41
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hi everyone...a A good service for rover here in my country gave me elastomeric head gasket and gave me this specification to torque the head for mine rover 200 1.6 16v . 30 nm then wait for 2 hours.recheck the bolts again with 30 nm than proceed for 2times with 180 degrees....can you tell me that this can be good procedure for tignten the head bolts...the service has a good history with repairing the rovers here...
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 13:13
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The correct initial tightening procedure starts with a torque of 20Nm, which is really just to settle the gasket to a common sart point for tightening by angle.

It is always necessary to repeat the initial 20Nm just to make sure that all bolts are the same. Waiting a while might possibly be thought to allow the gasket to settle a little more, but in practice I don't think it would actually make any difference.

Once all bolts are at 20Nm, you can either tighten using 2 x 180 degrees or 4 x 90 degrees.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 13-01-2015, 23:06
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Can this be added to the 25/200/zr sticky?
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