Freelander L -Series 2.0 Di - Ralenti problems - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 30-08-2011, 21:49 Thread Starter
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Freelander L -Series 2.0 Di - Ralenti problems

Hi,
I´ve recently bought a 1998 Freelander L-series 2.0 Di and shortly after, I had to repair the fuel cut off solenoid on the top of the fuel pump, because when the engine was running with the car stopped the engine preformed irregularly, increasing and decreasing engine rotation speed without acting on the accelerator pedal.
However this hasn´t solved entirely the problem, now when I stop the car (but kipping the engine running) the revolutions don´t come down for the normal regime (below 1000 r/min) and they stay accelerated above 1000 r/min constantly, but if then I press slightly and release the accelerator pedal the engine revolutions drop for the normal working regime below 1000 r/min.
The car was in the computer several times since then, but doesn´t register any fault code, so my mechanic is suggesting to replace the “Harness Engine, with Diesel Engines, With Air Conditioning” (part Ref: YSB105710), but this is a very expensive part around 900 quid, so could some of you help me and advice the way to solve this problem?
Thanks
Fernando
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 31-08-2011, 15:26
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No idea how akin the engine is to the regular L-series, but do check the wiring/plug to #1 injector for chaffing/corrosion. Also try disabling the EGR valve.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 31-08-2011, 16:06
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The L-series "Job3" in Freelander is much the same as the previous units fitted to the Rover cars. The main difference is the fuel injection pump (a VP37HP unit), but fault reaction strategies are much the same.

You say that the car has been on the computer with no faults? The first thing I would look for is whether the driver demand fueling from the accelerator pedal is zero when it is released. For the engine to hang-up at high idle speed, the idle governor is either not being invoked (pedal not returning to zero) or the idle is being demanded through a faulty sensor or some sort of fault strategy (but you say no faults logged? which tool are you using for "the computer"?)

First thing - check that the accelerator pedal really is going to zero demand. An interface tool for faults should be able to tell you if driver demand is going to 0% (unlike many gasoline engines, zero pedal demand really means that you see 0% on the driver demand)

Let us know how you get on.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 31-08-2011, 23:51 Thread Starter
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Thank you for the suggestions, but let me explain a little better what I mean with “stay accelerated above 1000 r/min”, in fact when I stop the car for example in a red light, the engine comes to the idle speed of 1250 r/min but should come to the normal regime which is 750 r/min.This happen sometimes is an intermittent problem.
The computer test was done using the Land Rover tools connected to the car to interrogate the ECU, no faults detected.
I don´t think that the poblem is in the acelerator pedal, is more an electrical problem.
Any way I`m going to following your suggestions then I let you know about the results.
Cheers
Fernando
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 09:00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fernandombc View Post
Thank you for the suggestions, but let me explain a little better what I mean with “stay accelerated above 1000 r/min”, in fact when I stop the car for example in a red light, the engine comes to the idle speed of 1250 r/min but should come to the normal regime which is 750 r/min.This happen sometimes is an intermittent problem.
The computer test was done using the Land Rover tools connected to the car to interrogate the ECU, no faults detected.
I don´t think that the poblem is in the acelerator pedal, is more an electrical problem.
Any way I`m going to following your suggestions then I let you know about the results.
Cheers
Fernando
It probably wouldn't be the pedal that's at fault, it would more likely be the throttle position sensor.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 13:20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fernandombc View Post
Thank you for the suggestions, but let me explain a little better what I mean with “stay accelerated above 1000 r/min”, in fact when I stop the car for example in a red light, the engine comes to the idle speed of 1250 r/min but should come to the normal regime which is 750 r/min.This happen sometimes is an intermittent problem.
The computer test was done using the Land Rover tools connected to the car to interrogate the ECU, no faults detected.
I don´t think that the poblem is in the acelerator pedal, is more an electrical problem.
Any way I`m going to following your suggestions then I let you know about the results.
Cheers
Fernando


1250rpm is the speed that the ecu selects then it believes there is a fault with the throttle position sensor.

The sensor itself is usually quite reliable. The wiring to it can be suspect on the 25/45/zr/zs cars though. Also check the brake light switch (and bulbs too) as if faulty that can cause the ECU to sulk. Pressing the throttle and brake pedal together and you can usually see the idle speed slowly return to 1250rpm even when the throttle pedal is pressed.

Also check the adjustment of the throttle position sensor itself as there is an idle switch inside it so if it doesn't return to zero then the ECU may believe it is faulty.

Does the freelander respond to the paperclip method of reading the fault codes as MANY fault code readers don't work correctly with the earlier L series engines.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 13:31
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 22:13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fernandombc View Post
Thank you for the suggestions, but let me explain a little better what I mean with “stay accelerated above 1000 r/min”, in fact when I stop the car for example in a red light, the engine comes to the idle speed of 1250 r/min but should come to the normal regime which is 750 r/min.This happen sometimes is an intermittent problem.
The computer test was done using the Land Rover tools connected to the car to interrogate the ECU, no faults detected.
I don´t think that the poblem is in the acelerator pedal, is more an electrical problem.
Any way I`m going to following your suggestions then I let you know about the results.
Cheers
Fernando
Just to be absolutely clear, the L-series engine is a drive-by-wire unit. There is no throttle position sensor on this strategy, there is only an electronic pedal with double track wiper to send the driver signal. See E_T_V ' s comments above for some good suggestions. 1250rpm is also in the domain of a cold idle setpoint speed, so you need to eliminate that if the problem is intermittent, as the temperature plausibility checks made inside of the MSA11 controller on this engine are not all that stringent, and might miss the odd dodgy coolant temperature signal. This is a heavily damped signal, so if you have a working sensor and disconnect it, the ECU does not necessarily see that problem for a several seconds. You need to check the coolant sensor circuit as well as the driver pedal sensor. The quickest way would be to get the car scanned for live data with a decent tool that can communicate with Freelander L-series, otherwise you are going to have to probe each circuit.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 19-12-2011, 23:32 Thread Starter
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Hi,
To update the issue with my Freelander, I would like to tell you that I´ve tried the paperclip method to read the fault codes, but no faults detected.
Following your previous suggestions to detect and solve my problem I realize that the idle speed remains in 1250 RPM when I brake the car to stop it and when the car engine was running with more than 1000RPM, if less and I brake, the engine goes normally to the 900RPM.
In the case that the engine stays in 1250RPM and the car stopped, the engine remains in this high rotation indefinitely, but if I release the break, then the RPM goes slowly for the normal RPM of 900.
So, I think that the problem, could be with the brake light switch (or the bulbs), because as suggested by you, if faulty that can cause the ECU to sulk.
Tomorrow, I´m going to replace my brake light switch for a new one, so let’s see if this resolves my problem, I hope that will do. I will post again tomorrow to update this action.
Regards
Thank you very much
Fernando
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 22-12-2011, 22:28 Thread Starter
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Brake light switch replaced but the problem continues. I´m assuming that the ECU is faulty, so my next step will aim to have the ECU refurbished...

Any other sugestion?

Regards

Fernandombc
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 22-12-2011, 23:10
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Have you tried reseting it by disconecting battery over night? only do it if you have radio code, try running some redex threw it see if theres some muck it injectors/fuel pump try checking the return of the throttle cable under the bonnet try wd40 on the pivit also clean engine sensors all of which wont cost more than a fiver also get fuel pump timing checked also check your battery and charging
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 24-12-2011, 17:02 Thread Starter
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I´ve resseted already the ecu by having the battery disconected for more than one day, doesn´t solve the problem and the fuel pump timing was also repared recently.

What I´ve not tryed yet was the use of REDEX in the diesel tank, and clean all the engine sensors with WD40, so I will try also this options.

The engine idle problem is very annoying... but I will continue trying to resolve it.

Thanks

Fernando
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 18:34 Thread Starter
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Finally I had my ECU tested by Autotek, and the report is as follows:

"This ECU has been tested several times and found to be faulty. It seems the power supply circuit has been overloaded and refurbishment is required. Please check the power supply circuits to all components before reconnecting the ECU back into the car. Refurbishment is required."

The refurbish quote was too high, so I declined it. I`m now thinking to buy a used ECU, but then it will be necessary to reprogram it with my radio and alarm codes, any one of you knows where I can have this done?

Having in consideration that I don´t have the Freelander here in UK the car is abroad, so I only have the ECU with me.

Another issue is the report recommendation to check the power supply circuits to all components, what exactly does this means?

Regards
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 24-02-2012, 11:01
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I'm not sure if this along the right lines but I think it seems it could be worth shot from what they said?

http://www.roverdiesel.co.uk/menucom...cu-repair.html
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 26-02-2012, 21:43 Thread Starter
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George,
Thanks very much for the link, probably the suggestions 2 and 3 could solve my problem, but I´ve not seen this forum for some time and in the min time I bought a USED ECU in ebay, with the CCU and the fob, iot avoid the reprogramming of the ECU.

The problem is that now I´m not sure if this works, because after having reading a little bit more about the CCU, alarm control Unit and the Fob, I´ve realize that these last two parts could have two different frequencies, the 315MHz (for the RHD cars - UK) and the 433MHZ (For LHD cars - Europe).

The used CCU and fob woks with 315MHZ but my original car is a European version with LHD, so I´m afraid that the CCU and the Fob will not work with my original Alarm control unit that should be 433MHZ.

Is there any other used part I should try to buy from e-bay to make sure this will work in my car?

Or, I only have the following options:

1- Try to open the original ECU and do some DIY replacing the power supply with the used ECU.

2- Recoding the used ECU for my car

Your comments and suggestions are welcome.
Regards

Fernando
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 16:48
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Hey guys , having a problem with my l series injector pump , eventually found the timing solenoid having gone belly up on me and am now struggling to find a replacement , Bosch part number is 0 281 002 154 , if anyone has ever experienced this drama please let me know and most importantly if anyone has got one lying around and is willing to sell one please drop me a line aswell , I can pay by PayPal if possible , again I would really appreciate anyone's feedback
Rich.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 11:50
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Assuming this is the VP30 timing solenoid (a common failure), then the part from the transit fits. Part number is in a sticky thread somewhere.
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