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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 14-05-2011, 00:24 Thread Starter
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MOT time

Wow, its come around quick

Got my Rover 100 Ascot in next week.

I think I will nip the handbrake up a tad, but that seems to be it.

It normaly fails on the same thing every year, it normaly fails on the hanbrake not holding the car, I usualy have to roughen up the shoes, dunno why it needs doing for the MOT everytime though, as the car only has 24,000 miles on it and the shoes are as good as new, I hope she goes throgh ok, as I love her, and in 25 years of motoring she is the most reliable car ive owned.

If it gets through ok, I will treat it to 2 part worns.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 14-05-2011, 09:51
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Good luck for the MOT. Make sure she passes.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 14-05-2011, 12:17
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good luck with the MOT.

24k it should be reliable, its not done enough miles for things to wear out from use.

think your doing the rear brakes wrong though, theres the adjuster on the back of the hub and also the 2 10mm nuts on the cable at the handbrake. I think it need ajustement to take the slack out.
Theres a cut in the carpet to access it the 2 nuts on the cable.

still thought rust is age related, so I hope your archs are tidy and the floors are dry under the carpet.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 14-05-2011, 22:33
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Handbrake adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randolf View Post
Wow, its come around quick

Got my Rover 100 Ascot in next week.

I think I will nip the handbrake up a tad, but that seems to be it.

It normaly fails on the same thing every year, it normaly fails on the hanbrake not holding the car, I usualy have to roughen up the shoes, dunno why it needs doing for the MOT everytime though, as the car only has 24,000 miles on it and the shoes are as good as new, I hope she goes throgh ok, as I love her, and in 25 years of motoring she is the most reliable car ive owned.

If it gets through ok, I will treat it to 2 part worns.
Handbrake adjustment on these is very "old school", you have to adjust the brake adjuster which has the square projection on it. If you have never done this it's likely to be seized on both sides, so make sure you have a proper brake adjusting spanner and that you take it very slowly: brush down the threads before starting, lube them (don't go mad and get anything onto the shoes of course), and then free off both by gently going back and forth.

I tend to de-adjust them (get the adjuster to come out so you can do a good job of cleaning up before you screw them back in). If you take the drum off before you start winding it in again, you can ensure the adjuster is truly free without the shoes jamming onto the drums. Then de-adjust again before refitting drums. Clean out all the dust as well (remember asbestos safety precautions!), using brake cleaner or meths: meths is cheaper and just as effective

Then adjust both sides so the wheel is locked, then go back a couple of quarter turns. You should then find the wheel is free to turn, a little drag is OK as it helps to ensure minimum number of clicks at the hand lever. Any slight drag will soon wear off, by which time you will be through the MoT.

For what it's worth, they do tend to be crap at the best of times LOL. I shouldn't mention other makes in here, but I have now got an R reg. Fiasco, and the handbrake is extremely effective, and to adjust all you have to do is take out slack in the cable at the lever.

Incidentally, if you are anywhere near East Midlands, I have some good tyres/wheels and a Haynes manual to get rid of, and will help you with the setting up if needed.

Last edited by Bills_metro; 14-05-2011 at 22:34. Reason: Typo
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 14-05-2011, 23:55 Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, and thanks for the offer Bill, I'm too far away mate, much appreciated though.

Done abit messing about today, got under the carpet near the hanbrake and adjusted it up, took the slack up, then got under the car at the back and lubed the cable where it goes around corners and stuff, its gripping like a good un on the handbrake now.

If she fails on the brakes, I will have a go at what you guys mentioned about the adjuster on the hubs, and take off the drum to clean it all out in there.

The car is driving fantasticaly well, you can hardly hear the engine when driving along, she has been a superb car for the 3 years i have had her, Ascot SE, excellent.

Thanks again.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 15-05-2011, 15:49
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MoT advisories

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Originally Posted by Randolf View Post
Thanks guys, and thanks for the offer Bill, I'm too far away mate, much appreciated though.

Done abit messing about today, got under the carpet near the hanbrake and adjusted it up, took the slack up, then got under the car at the back and lubed the cable where it goes around corners and stuff, its gripping like a good un on the handbrake now.

If she fails on the brakes, I will have a go at what you guys mentioned about the adjuster on the hubs, and take off the drum to clean it all out in there.

The car is driving fantasticaly well, you can hardly hear the engine when driving along, she has been a superb car for the 3 years i have had her, Ascot SE, excellent.

Thanks again.
I think if I had time I would do it before the MoT anyway, if the shoes have done 24k miles the braking efficiency will be down. This would apply to both on the footbrake and the handbrake: the adjustment is actually to minimise brake pedal travel on the service brake (from the pedal) and takes up the slack. If you are adjusting the handbrake cable you are using that to take up the slack, and if it breaks then your footbrake pedal travel will go up, because the brake shoes springs will pull the shoes right back in.

Worse still, if the handbrake cable breaks for one side only, you will get uneven braking on the footbrake. I can't recall if this is a Y arrangement, one cable from the lever splitting into 2, one to each side, when this scenario would be most likely.

Also, I work on the philosophy at MoT time that they might give advisories for less important things (say a little noise from a wheel bearing, a tyre thats begun to show uneven wear but is still legal etc.), but on the brakes it's pass or fail.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 16-05-2011, 09:01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bills_metro View Post
I think if I had time I would do it before the MoT anyway, if the shoes have done 24k miles the braking efficiency will be down. This would apply to both on the footbrake and the handbrake: the adjustment is actually to minimise brake pedal travel on the service brake (from the pedal) and takes up the slack. If you are adjusting the handbrake cable you are using that to take up the slack, and if it breaks then your footbrake pedal travel will go up, because the brake shoes springs will pull the shoes right back in.

Worse still, if the handbrake cable breaks for one side only, you will get uneven braking on the footbrake. I can't recall if this is a Y arrangement, one cable from the lever splitting into 2, one to each side, when this scenario would be most likely.

Also, I work on the philosophy at MoT time that they might give advisories for less important things (say a little noise from a wheel bearing, a tyre thats begun to show uneven wear but is still legal etc.), but on the brakes it's pass or fail.
Handbrake cable is self balancing, the split is done horizontally just inside the rear subframe member with the inner of one cable coupled to the outer of the other, however the self balance does rely somewhat upon the rear drums being correctly adjusted in the first case and this should be done before adjusting the actual cable as in most cases it's the drum adjusters that need doing. It it's correct the cable linkage behind the handbrake lever should just become slack as the brake is let fully off.

If the adjusters need to come a long way then it's a good idea to bed them back in over a few hundred miles and then re-adjust as the wear pattern on the shoes will change.

Good luck with the MOT.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 18-05-2011, 11:52 Thread Starter
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She failed lads.

Chasis corrosion, I'm gutted, the fail sheet is in the car, I shall post the full fail list later, but the mot people said the chasis was in a poor state and there was a split arcoss the floor, they advised me to move her on as the repairs would cost alot.

2 weeks left on the mot, so i suppose its car hunting time, Rover 25 maybe?
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 18-05-2011, 13:17
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Let's see some photos. What sort of split?

Someone else recently had similar problem on here with chasis corrosion and they fixed it up.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 18-05-2011, 13:54
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you can type in your ref number on this site

http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring...ot/DG_10020539

and copy and past the fail items.

Can you take pictures of the rust? Still get some quotes. Its cheaper if you strip the interior out yourself as its quite easy to do and drive it with just the drivers seat and seat belt in (to lower labour costs and fire risk when welding)

shame to scrap a 26k car. find some quotes.phone up brake street garages who can do welding to get some quotes. even if its 300 of welding it will be worth it if done properly. Also with the carpets out I strongly reckomend painting the whole floor and sills in hammerite. you can even get it in the colour of your car.
So at least its then done well and should last a good few MOT's after as I personaly think that with the welding done, the 300 say would not get much on a new car. Also good 25 start at 1k upwards.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 18-05-2011, 19:18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randolf View Post
She failed lads.

Chasis corrosion, I'm gutted, the fail sheet is in the car, I shall post the full fail list later, but the mot people said the chasis was in a poor state and there was a split arcoss the floor, they advised me to move her on as the repairs would cost alot.

2 weeks left on the mot, so i suppose its car hunting time, Rover 25 maybe?
You need to post the fail list. I had kittens on the last MOT: "Rear subframe extensive corrosion". Turned out it was a penny sized hole on the cross member that I missed. 60 weld by my friendly fixer and she passed.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 18-05-2011, 20:21 Thread Starter
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001 centre body or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings [6.1.3] DANGEROUS

002 nearside body or chassis has excessive corrosion, .................................................. ......... [6.1.3] DANGEROUS

003 offside body or chassis ......................[6.1.3] DANGEROUS

004 parking brake efficiency below requirements, 14% [3.7.A.10] lol

r336hbr
155838031123

Last edited by Randolf; 18-05-2011 at 20:54.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 19-05-2011, 14:39 Thread Starter
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got her booked in at a back street garage for a free estimate, this garage is mega cheap, will let you know how much they quote, this will decide if she lives or dies
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 19-05-2011, 21:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randolf View Post
got her booked in at a back street garage for a free estimate, this garage is mega cheap, will let you know how much they quote, this will decide if she lives or dies
if you do give up on it, list it on ebay as a DIY welder will snap it up and im sure it will sell for more than its scrap weight aswell.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 23-05-2011, 16:13 Thread Starter
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Just got back from the garage, the whole floor has gone, the guy wouldnt insult me by giving me a price to fix it, sills and everything are shot.

Theres a week left on the mot, so i'll be looking hard for a runaround, then its trade my tax in and scrap her.

Its a shame, but there you go.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 23-05-2011, 18:00
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Bloody hell.... one year from being a pass to being a scrapper?? Did she get any advisories last year? My missus has a 114, and the garage that do the work on her (the car, not the missus....) said that there were general signs of corrosion underneath, but nothing they wouldn't expect on a vehicle of her age and nothing that looked like it would turn nasty. Sounds like it's time to have a good look around underneath the car and the carpets......
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 23-05-2011, 21:02
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It depends...

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Originally Posted by speedy231278 View Post
Bloody hell.... one year from being a pass to being a scrapper?? Did she get any advisories last year? My missus has a 114, and the garage that do the work on her (the car, not the missus....) said that there were general signs of corrosion underneath, but nothing they wouldn't expect on a vehicle of her age and nothing that looked like it would turn nasty. Sounds like it's time to have a good look around underneath the car and the carpets......
It depends who did the MoT last year. I bought a Fiasco that a student had bought just over a year before, which had failed it's MoT. I bought it for the alloys on it.... but it was that rotten underneath when I jacked it up to get the wheels off I had to put some large boards between the jack and the underside to prevent it disintegrating!

May not be relevant in this case, but some dodgy MoT places will give a car a years MoT to help their mate get rid of it!
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 26-05-2011, 10:46
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Obviously some things are down to the personal opinion of the tester. I had an advisory on the rear shock on my bike a several years ago for 'slightly reduced damping effect', yet the same tester at the same place didn't say anything about it for the next couple of years. Also, the last time I went there they reckoned the headrace bearings were excessively stiff, which I know they weren't, my friendly mechanic thought likewise, and the place I now get my MOTs done didn't think so either. Nor did they dislike the rear shock!

Anyway, back to the subject.... if there were no advisories last time and the place wasn't dodgy, I'm now rather worrier about my missus' car seeing as we live near the sea. One year to go from allegedly no significant issues to being completely shot seems very worrying!
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