Thanks for posting the information above, I'm not sure you'll get much thanks for it but hopefully (assuming you're still doing this conversion?) it will become invaluable for other people who go down this route in the future. Hats off to you Mr. Roberts, a pioneer and inspiration.
Not looking for any thanks mate just trying to clear up a few myths by getting the parts and finaly confirming the differences. If reworked following Dave Andrews advice on his website "The Bible" as I call it and fitting a PRT you can overcome the overheating problems and get some good reliable power using mainly standard parts from the VVC and ZT/75 turbo cars. Plenty of people have done it so I am not re inventing the wheel just trying to get as much information in one place to help all going down the same route. The T16 is a heavy lump and an ever decreasing supply but there are thousands of K Series out there that can be converted fairly easily and relatively cheaply. These Turbo engines are to an extent an unknown quantity in regards to how far you can push standard parts. What I have learned from other who have done it is.
1. Standard pistons max out at 200-220 BHP
2. Rods max out at around 250 BHP as far as we know
3. Cranks max out at around 250 BHP as far as we know
4. Liners have been used upto 220BHP maybe more but Ductile liners are available and good for much higher RPM and BHP and hold their shape well
5. Engines are running happily at 9.5-1 and upto 220BHP on all but standard parts BUT that I would think depends on the quality of the build.
6. There are both VVC and solid cam turbo's running well and reliably BUT remember that there is a limit to how far you can rev the VVC mechs, so you need to decide how far you want to Rev your engine and the limits of these. Dave Andrews again knows the limits of these cams and can give very good advice along with others that have built turbo's. I have been told the VVC can be locked out by removing the solenoid effectively creating a non variable cam system but investigate this as I know nothing about it although if you look at the VVC it is clear to see how it can be done.
I am sure there will be engines out there that have pushed it more but these seem to be around the safe limits as far as I can tell from feedback from Guys that have built and run them.
Wossner DO MAKE steel rods and forged pistons for both NA and Turbo K series BUT it looks like the best way to obtain them is to go straight to them in Germany.
Others like Omega make pistons that you can use in either NA or in a turbo using a shim but they DO increase the CR by 1-1 so you need to allow for that in your build.
Maxspeeding steel Rods have been made for some builders but at the moment I have no feedback as to how well they perform.
Ductile liners in my oppinion are a must if you want to push the engine and are available from Westwood or Dave Andrews.
Arrow HAVE made cranks as have other manufacturers but the original MG Rover items appear to be better balanced although maybe a little light. It would seem that a well know 1.4 running 250BHP was running on an Arrow crank?
Finaly YES i have two engines on the go the first is running mainly standard parts although I may well use Forged pistons to give a bit of scope and safety for 200BHP+. The second engine I am using Ductile liners, Steel rods, forged pistons and a steel crank if I can find one for a decent price, M series hybrid intake system, uprated turbo and 3 inch exhaust and hope to find a suitable A series Mini to RWD.