"The K-Series Head Gasket" - PPC Magazine technical article. - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-11-2008, 20:11
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Evans and Halshaw (LEEDS) had replaced the head gasket on my rover 45 a few months before i bought it, the head gasket went again ! (probably was already gone when i bought it), i thought no problem it was under warranty, i gladly showed the warranty company the reciepts etc. from the earlier Evans and Halshaw HG job, trouble was it was clear to see they didnt replace the cylinder head bolts, as a result they reduced the ammount they should have paid out !!!!!!, so i was out of pocket without a leg to stand on !!!

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post #22 of 102 (permalink) Old 11-11-2008, 06:42
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Cant believe they didn't change the bolts...makes me wonder if they actually changed the HG at all..cos there is no real easy way of checking...
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post #23 of 102 (permalink) Old 11-11-2008, 06:55
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Why would they want to replace the bolts if they were still within spec? They have enough stretch left in them to be reused several times.
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post #24 of 102 (permalink) Old 13-11-2008, 12:31
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Unhappy Headgasket

My greatest fears have come to a head. The HG has failed, The funny thing is that my wife said the car interior wasnt getting warm at all and I wondered if the thermostat had stuck shut and caused the HGF....does this some reasonable???
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post #25 of 102 (permalink) Old 21-11-2008, 22:37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogwarzt View Post
My greatest fears have come to a head. The HG has failed, The funny thing is that my wife said the car interior wasnt getting warm at all and I wondered if the thermostat had stuck shut and caused the HGF....does this some reasonable???
Experiences with Cortinas, a (very!) wet-linered Citroen BX- and even recently my XJ6 suggest a noticeably cool heater is a good clue to dropping engine water levels! All? heaters are set above engine level, so as water is lost, the higher heater matrix drains FIRST! Hence -cold heater! Used this warning to stop and refill the BX- every 50 miles or so! Never again!! Best. P.
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post #26 of 102 (permalink) Old 21-11-2008, 22:46
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The biggest cause of HGF on a K series is due to a coolant leak or lack of pressure in the cooling system.

This can be down to a pinhole in one of the hoses or steel pipes, a leaking water pump, a detached impellor on the pump, leaky rad (or heater matrix), or a faulty header tank /cap.

Normally if the thermostat sticks, it will stick open, resulting in overcooling (and a lack of heater). This normally won't cause HGF but will use more fuel.

The heater is on a bypass circuit, so water will circulate through the matrix whether the thermostat is open or closed. My Rovers generally had a nice warm cabin well before the thermostat opened.

HGF isn't as bad as all that. If the head is true, and the bolts are within spec, it's not too hard a job to DIY (or overly expensive). It is also worth upgrading to the MLS gasket and stiffened oil rail at the same time. Get a Haynes Manual and follow the instructions meticulously and you should be able to change the gasket easily.
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post #27 of 102 (permalink) Old 26-11-2008, 22:01
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Hi Hogw., water in oil gives 'mayo' (emulsification) so keep chasing Evan Halshaw. There is still a problem.
As preventitive measures on our MGF's, I insert the Tin alloy fuel cat in the tank which REDUCES the burn temp of unleaded by 150C in the cylinder head, attacking the root cause (HEAT build up) rather than playing catch-up, also I add Molyslip to the new engine oil (oil filter must be changed) to lower friction and thus heat production. Having had K series engines since 2000 in various MG/Rovers either I've been lucky or these steps work.

On a similar note, has anyone got any experience in using the '4 LIFE' coolant, as on the MGOC website? I'm seriously considering fitting SS pipes and 4 LIFE at the same time again as a preventitive measure which they claim lasts for 10 years.

Last edited by gb.mgengtune; 22-12-2008 at 00:54.
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post #28 of 102 (permalink) Old 30-11-2008, 18:54
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il take this point to say thanks to all you bods on the forum with all the different views and guides that have helped me change my head gasket today!! seems to be working ok so far but its gonna be a git to flush out all the oil from the water system... the only fault i can find so far is a suction noise from the engine as its turned off, will have to look at this further! but like i said thanks peeps for adding your info it really does help.

1.8 impression s with 51k!!
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post #29 of 102 (permalink) Old 30-11-2008, 19:10 Thread Starter
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Suction sound is normal, don't worry about it.

Free Fob Programming and Diagnostics for forum Supporters... see here.

Pektron SCU/BCU Technical Information and Common Faults... see here.

Discounted Pektron SCU/BCU Relay Replacement for forum Supporters... see here.
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post #30 of 102 (permalink) Old 15-12-2008, 15:22
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This little video maybe of use with this thread, MLS Gaskets explained; http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=FeiMY9ezkqk
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post #31 of 102 (permalink) Old 24-03-2009, 15:09
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God no Please don't use this.

I've just bought this on recommendation from several people for my 214sli!

Why not use it?? My car's HG is starting to show signs of wear, a bit of creamyness etc, now there's an intermitent water leak-probably the pump. I just want to prolong the life for a few more hundred miles, the guy in the car parts shop said that this'll do the job!

I'm confused!!
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post #32 of 102 (permalink) Old 26-03-2009, 15:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddy's mum View Post
I've just bought this on recommendation from several people for my 214sli!

Why not use it?? My car's HG is starting to show signs of wear, a bit of creamyness etc, now there's an intermitent water leak-probably the pump. I just want to prolong the life for a few more hundred miles, the guy in the car parts shop said that this'll do the job!

I'm confused!!
Worked damn well for me for over 10,000 miles!
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post #33 of 102 (permalink) Old 24-04-2009, 19:04
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Thumbs down K Seal - Delaying the inevitable!

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Originally Posted by jonspurs View Post
You could try out k-seal...has worked for me for a while...but it's losing water again slowly...!
I spent a long time suffering with an iffy gasket and used K-Seal, it worked for a while but once coolant = oil and oil = coolant I went for it and changed the gasket myself.

Wish I had done it long ago, easier than expected and done for under 100 quid!
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post #34 of 102 (permalink) Old 25-08-2009, 09:00
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K seal, if its as good as it calims it will damage the rest of the cooling system but more than likely it just doesn't work.

It will not bridge the gap when an elasomer bead has failed.

HGF occurs when the engine has over heated, you must trac the source of that over heating and cure it, MLS gasket is simply more robust than an Elastomer one but MLS ones will fail if the primary cause of HGF still exists.

Liner heights are critical, not only must they be within tollerance but if using MLS critically they should be very consistant.

I cant emphaise enough times we get jobs in that others have already tried and failed with because they short cut.

Save money, do it properly and do it once. If you are paying someone else like us it will be expensive but time costs.

I haven't read the artical but notice from pics that refreshingly they have picked up on the porosity issues that the K series head suffers from.
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post #35 of 102 (permalink) Old 25-08-2009, 10:24
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K seal will not damage the cooling system due to the nature of how it works. Its not a sludge type suspension like rad weld etc, but a solution in the water of a sodium silicate. It works by been activated by temperature above 115 deg C so will not cause any issues. As for its use with headgaskets, well it will temporarily fix a leaking fire ring (just about good enough to flog a car through an auction), its useless at repairing a failed elastomer (no heat to activate it at the failure point) but where it is brilliant is if you suffer a liner seal failure. Due to its nature not only does it stop coolant getting into the oil but it solidly seals the liner into the block and increases the torsional ridgity of the engine. We have several 1.8 turbos that continued to loose coolant into the oil after headgasket repair that have been permenantly cured with k seal over the last 18 months. It has its uses in the right conditions.
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post #36 of 102 (permalink) Old 30-08-2009, 21:57
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Wink

I've done two head gaskets on the Rover K - not too difficult, but the second time the head had marks around the fire-ring, so I went to a scrappy, took several heads off (doesn't take long with experience) and took the flattest I could find - two years on and the car still runs fine.

Incidentally, the lass who owned the second car was VERY grateful...
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post #37 of 102 (permalink) Old 30-10-2009, 21:48
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My Dad has just had 2 head gaskets go in ONE day! First the Rover 75 2.5 V6 in the morning then the Rover 25 1.6 in the evening.

So we intend to fix them but are there any particular kits to go for? I understand Lotus did a kit with a thicker gasket. Does it work?

...I do hope he can still talk my Mum into buying an MG TF....
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post #38 of 102 (permalink) Old 21-12-2009, 12:44
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I'm quite interested in the theory of coolant pressure in the coolant system.

The MG Rover manual I have for my ZR says, fill the header tank up to the maximum mark but I've always kept mine half way.

Whats best? Max or half way between min and max?
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post #39 of 102 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 20:30
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Considering how sensitive to overheating the K series head gasket is I'm appalled at the way some people on these pages treat their cooling systems. The Forum is thick with reports of long standing coolant loss issues, systems frozen due to lack of antifreeze, discoloured coolant and the like. Quite a few people also report boiling up and then driving home "carefully" without refilling the system.

Thanks for the rant!
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post #40 of 102 (permalink) Old 12-01-2010, 08:50
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Originally Posted by Vi7ia7e View Post

The MG Rover manual I have for my ZR says, fill the header tank up to the maximum mark but I've always kept mine half way.

Whats best? Max or half way between min and max?

Half way between min and max is the maximum mark.
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