Cam belt snapped - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-01-2017, 16:33 Thread Starter
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Cam belt snapped

Driving to work yesterday morning, just as I pulled off the a13 my engine cut out. Coasted to a stop, tried to start it up and it spun over far too quickly...
Great, waiting for a tow at 3am, not fun...

I took the top cover off and found a load of shredded belt teeth resting on the engine mount bracket. So much for the previous owner changing the belt a few months before I bought it... grrr...

Soon as the weather let's up I'll be whizzing off the head and seeing how many valves it's done.

Oh fun...
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post #2 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-01-2017, 17:29
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That's tough to take, small consolation, I know but one day later and you could have been caught in this snowy weather. Feel for you though.
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post #3 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-01-2017, 18:10
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let hope the previous owner didnt do what the guy one of my mates bought a car off did , changed the cam belt and not the water pump , water pump seized and took out the cam belt
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post #4 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-01-2017, 19:19 Thread Starter
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Yeah, it wasn't the best loved motor when I got it so anything is possible. Silly me for believing him I guess...
I have repaired a few of these in the past but I have never had a VVC version throw a belt. Will it have damaged the vvc gearing or is it more likely to be just the valves damaged? I don't know how robust the vvc drivetrain is.

Cheers all
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post #5 of 49 (permalink) Old 13-01-2017, 07:28
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Sorry to hear this! Hopefully it's just valve damage and no block damage. Good luck x

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post #6 of 49 (permalink) Old 13-01-2017, 20:19 Thread Starter
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Wanted to strip the van this weekend and for the first time in 2 years it's snowing .

Just seems to be my luck lately...
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post #7 of 49 (permalink) Old 14-01-2017, 18:36
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Bad luck mate

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post #8 of 49 (permalink) Old 15-01-2017, 08:30 Thread Starter
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Well I removed the head yesterday afternoon, it has bent every exhaust valve and at least 2 inlet valves.

The pistons looked fine, no cracks and same for the liners.

It looked as though some of the valve guides are cracked, but until I get the valves out on Monday I won't be able to tell exactly.

Anyone know if I can replace the guides myself, I seem to remember they have to be frozen in but I can't find any information about it?

Cheers all
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post #9 of 49 (permalink) Old 15-01-2017, 09:04
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Tbh, by the sounds of it, your best bet would be to get a replacement head from a scrappy (if available) or put your head in for a specialist assessment and refurb. If the bottom end's ok, it could have been worse...

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post #10 of 49 (permalink) Old 15-01-2017, 19:27 Thread Starter
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Yeah maybe. I'll strip the head tomorrow then price up all the bits against a replacement. I phoned around locally but can't find a breakers with one. We'll just have to see how far my wallet can stretch ?

Hopefully it'll be worth the cost but I may seriously think about selling or even scrapping it.
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post #11 of 49 (permalink) Old 16-01-2017, 08:57
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It is worth repairing almost regardless of cost tbh; there weren't many Express built, and only 71 were 160s (and several have been recorded scrapped).

If you decide not to repair it, I would certainly sell rather than scrap it - an Express 160 will sell for more as spares or repairs than it will make for scrap (that's if you can find a breaker/scrapper willing to pay for it to start with!)
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post #12 of 49 (permalink) Old 16-01-2017, 10:42
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He probably did change it but it was done wrong.

I've had a cam belt go on me after just 50 miles of it being replaced because the tensioner was on too tight and I had a cheesy string remains of a cam belt.

If it went at low speed such as pulling out of a junction, chances are the valves are fine. (anything below 3000rpm)

You need several revolutions of the engine to do a full stroke to smash the pistons into it.

It'd require taking the cylinder head off but it's unlikely to have ruined your head and valves are not expensive to replace.

If you are comfortable you can do this sort of thing yourself if you buy a spring compressor.

But essentially a garage will charge a lot because you're having to replace the head gasket if you take the cylinder head of.

Replacing the belt and seeing if the engine grinds itself into destruction is one option but a risk of making it even more expensive.
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post #13 of 49 (permalink) Old 17-01-2017, 15:29 Thread Starter
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I'm not worried about doing it as I'm a hgv mechanic so it's just a little smaller than the usual things I do lol.

I removed the head, and stripped it last night. I have damaged 12 valves, the seats look fine, only trouble is I have damaged the guides. I have had a quote from a machine shop to replace the guides at 8 each. I phoned a few places for replacement valves, ranging from 18 each to 10 each. I'm gonna change all the valves, for the sake of 4 I may as well...
Trouble is it works out very expensive.

I found a full set of valves on eBay for 69.99, but I'm not sure about the quality of eBay parts. I also found a site online called dmgrs, (discount MGrover spares) They stock the valves at about 5 and 6 quid each but again I have never used them so don't know about the quality.

Anyone used dgmrs.co.uk?
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post #14 of 49 (permalink) Old 17-01-2017, 15:41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsto View Post
I also found a site online called dmgrs, (discount MGrover spares) They stock the valves at about 5 and 6 quid each but again I have never used them so don't know about the quality.

Anyone used dgmrs.co.uk?
IMHO you can rely on them. They sell good stuff. I've bought some. No problem.
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post #15 of 49 (permalink) Old 17-01-2017, 18:09
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Originally Posted by lsto View Post
I'm not worried about doing it as I'm a hgv mechanic so it's just a little smaller than the usual things I do lol.

I removed the head, and stripped it last night. I have damaged 12 valves, the seats look fine, only trouble is I have damaged the guides. I have had a quote from a machine shop to replace the guides at 8 each. I phoned a few places for replacement valves, ranging from 18 each to 10 each. I'm gonna change all the valves, for the sake of 4 I may as well...
Trouble is it works out very expensive.

I found a full set of valves on eBay for 69.99, but I'm not sure about the quality of eBay parts. I also found a site online called dmgrs, (discount MGrover spares) They stock the valves at about 5 and 6 quid each but again I have never used them so don't know about the quality.

Anyone used dgmrs.co.uk?
Definitely OK to buy from D.G.M.R.S.


Well known and reliable.----
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post #16 of 49 (permalink) Old 17-01-2017, 18:12
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Originally Posted by Stargatemunky View Post
He probably did change it but it was done wrong.

I've had a cam belt go on me after just 50 miles of it being replaced because the tensioner was on too tight and I had a cheesy string remains of a cam belt.

If it went at low speed such as pulling out of a junction, chances are the valves are fine. (anything below 3000rpm)

You need several revolutions of the engine to do a full stroke to smash the pistons into it.

It'd require taking the cylinder head off but it's unlikely to have ruined your head and valves are not expensive to replace.

If you are comfortable you can do this sort of thing yourself if you buy a spring compressor.

But essentially a garage will charge a lot because you're having to replace the head gasket if you take the cylinder head of.

Replacing the belt and seeing if the engine grinds itself into destruction is one option but a risk of making it even more expensive.
Could have saved yourself some typing if you had read post 8.----
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post #17 of 49 (permalink) Old 17-01-2017, 18:59
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post #18 of 49 (permalink) Old 18-01-2017, 15:43 Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the replies. It fills me with confidence about dmgrs so I'll happily get my headset and belts from them.

On another note I dropped the head off at the machine shop today, so hopefully it will have nice shiny new guides in a day or so...

While I was there I asked about valves, of course they recommended their suppliers but they will cost 170ish for the whole set. I emailed dmgrs about their valves, asking who makes them. They replied they are straight from the SAIC-MG production line and are genuine MG units. This may be true but they seem very cheap compared to every other place I enquired from.

Anyone used valves from them in the past? I can't help thinking the old 'buy cheap buy twice'

Cheers again everyone
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post #19 of 49 (permalink) Old 18-01-2017, 16:06
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The other valves may be VVC or performance ones. If the car is not VVC you don't want to put those in unless you are planning on porting the head for more power.

With regards to the issue of removing the guides, yes you do need to freeze guides to fit them. I think Dave Andrews has a brief guide to doing it.
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post #20 of 49 (permalink) Old 18-01-2017, 16:17 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply. It's a VVC engine and the valves I asked him about were the VVC ones on the website.
They may be excellent, and genuine MG valves, it's just they seem very cheap. I love a bargain as does everyone else and they seem to be a reputable shop from reviews on here, I just don't want to risk breaking a valve in 6 months if they are too good to be true. I just can't get over how cheap they are.
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