Cambelt Skipped a Tooth? - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 25-02-2017, 11:37 Thread Starter
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Cambelt Skipped a Tooth?

Daughter's diesel Streetwise broke its auxiliary belt some of which got wedged between the cam belt and pulley. It had almost stopped when it happened and I didn't restarting it. I'm now fitting a new cam belt but cant get it to TDC because it locks up before it get there so appears to have skipped a tooth. Is it worth taking the old cam belt off and juggling the crank and camshaft to get the marks to line up then fit the new one or will it have mashed everything and need a replacement head?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 25-02-2017, 11:49
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Hi and welcome to the forum.

Even at tickover valves can get bent, I would pop the mead off if you can't get things to line up.

James
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 26-02-2017, 11:57 Thread Starter
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Tried fitting the cam belt this morning but can't get the timing marks to line up. With the flywheel pin in place and number 1 at TDC the cam locks up before the timing mark on the pulley lines up. With the crank turned back quarter turn the cam will rotate 360 degrees and with the cam repositioned the crank will turn 360 degrees. I don't think any valves are bent but can't be sure without taking the head off which I don't want to do as if it needs a recon head at 225, gasket at 50, cam belt at 35 and bottom pulley at 35 it's not worth repairing.
Watching a video on Youtube they fit the flywheel pin at the front of the engine whereas Haynes says at the back. Are there two holes in the flywheel and I've got it 180 degrees out? I tried finding a second hole in the flywheel and front of the engine but nothing there.
Am I missing something obvious?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 28-02-2017, 21:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvel View Post
Tried fitting the cam belt this morning but can't get the timing marks to line up. With the flywheel pin in place and number 1 at TDC the cam locks up before the timing mark on the pulley lines up. With the crank turned back quarter turn the cam will rotate 360 degrees and with the cam repositioned the crank will turn 360 degrees. I don't think any valves are bent but can't be sure without taking the head off which I don't want to do as if it needs a recon head at 225, gasket at 50, cam belt at 35 and bottom pulley at 35 it's not worth repairing.
Watching a video on Youtube they fit the flywheel pin at the front of the engine whereas Haynes says at the back. Are there two holes in the flywheel and I've got it 180 degrees out? I tried finding a second hole in the flywheel and front of the engine but nothing there.
Am I missing something obvious?

A good second hand head from a scrap car will be perfectly serviceable - they are capable of extremely high milages without issue. Cost will be about 50
Headgasket 25-45 quid
Cambelt you already have
Bottom pulley doesn't need changing

Flywheel pin hole is in the back on the L series near the crank sensor.

You can try resetting all the timing and fitting a new belt but chances are a head swap is needed as the lifters usually get destroyed (you can take the cover off to try and inspect if you really want to).
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 16:27 Thread Starter
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So I ended up getting a second hand head, gasket set and head bolts which I fitted today. All ok except the alternator has seized while its been stood. I suspect the vacuum pump but not sure. Are these rebuildable or is it a replacement one?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 18:03
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there seem to be a number on ebay for 25 second hand? May be cheaper to pick up local so no postage?

Maybe ETV would know if the one you have will free up with oil in the right place?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 10:15
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Unlikely for the vacuum pump to have seized but it is possible. Remove it from the end of the alternator to check. I'd guess it'll be the alternator though

Check the belt tensioner runs true and smooth as that is the usual cause of the alternator belt being shredded which started off this post.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 17:47 Thread Starter
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Thanks to the words of encouragement on here it's all back together and running sweetly. The only which seems different from before is the buzzing noise coming from something bolted to the bulkhead with pipes going to it and a knob on the top. I've got no idea what it is or what it does?
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 15-05-2017, 21:35
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If it has a castellated top then that is the EGR solenoid valve. It is common for them to sound a bit like an angry wasp. It can be considered normal. Some make more noise than others so if it bothers you swap it for another one. It is rubber mounted to avoid making a noise inside the car.

Last edited by E_T_V; 16-05-2017 at 20:40.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 15-05-2017, 22:44
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Well done Marvel. Sometimes these cars try our patience but with the excellent support here I'm sure many cars have kept on the road. Mine certainly has though its pushing me lately!

Whats your skill level prior to this and how hard did you find it?

ps mine buzzes as well...
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