The Fine Art of Owning: A Rover 25 - Page 11 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #201 of 420 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 18:19 Thread Starter
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Cheers for that info. This means I won't have to bother about the ignition illumination ring.
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post #202 of 420 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 20:21
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Originally Posted by Spudgun! View Post
......Now. Since the mirror has three wires. Would I be correct in saying that the lights will have an auto dim function like the courtesy light? ........
The map reading lights will work in conjunction with the courtesy light, and will dim and go off in the same way. Each map light has its own switch on the bottom of the mirror casing with which it can be switched on independently of the door being open. As with the courtesy light switch, the light will be on all the time. The map light switches have only two positions, so the only big difference between the map lights and the courtesy light is that it is not possible to set the map lights to be permanently off (ie. don't light up when the door is opened). The switches will set them to either illuminate when the door is open, or be illuminated all the time.

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Originally Posted by Roverlike
However you need to pay attention that LHD cars have wiring in the LEFT A pillar, opposite then in these instructions.
Thanks for the confirmation of that - I thought that was probably the case, but (not having any hands on experience of LHD 25s) I didn't previously know for sure which side they would be.
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post #203 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 06:12
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But why that so long wiring along the windscreen? Why not join that very close ceiling lamp in those drawings?
.
What you see in the drawings is the switch for the sunroof, which is close to windscreen, that is not interior light itself.
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post #204 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 06:54
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Following the RAVE How To presented by @Man in the Car, I have some further questions.

1. What is the reference of the socket needed to plug with the one of the illuminated mirror?

2. Are the illuminated mirror wires clearly identified by the same colours black, purple & red/purple, or is there any discrepancy? In case like @Roverlike we need to cut shorter the illuminated mirror wires.

3. What is the practicability when taking off that very long plastic piece covering the wires following the driver's pillar? I'm thinking now of following the RAVE How To but I fear to break anything in the process.

4. And if we try to hide the wires under the headlining, would it be easy to take it back along the windscreen without any damage? Is it to be glued and how? I would be gutted to damage that headlining and nothing would be able to hide that mess...

Thanks for your skilful advices.
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post #205 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 08:27 Thread Starter
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I had to do a 'splash & dash' with the Rover this morning, so I had a quick poke around the head lining.

The front of the head lining isn't fixed into anything. There's enough give, so any wires can be pushed over the lip. I also prodded the lining to see if there was a gap between the lining and the roof panel. There is. This got me thinking.

I'm currently working on the idea of : Removing the courtesy light and inserting a wire coat hanger in between the gap, towards the rear view mirror. Once the end emerges from the lining. I'd attach the wires (Which I'll extend) from the mirror, then pull the coat hanger out. Then I'd splice the mirror wires directly to the courtesy light wires. This should save a lot of hassle and reduce the potential for damage to other parts.

The wires on my mirror (from the photos) are different from the guide. I have Black, purple and light green. With the aid of a multi-meter. It should be easy enough to find out what wire does what.
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post #206 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 08:55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spudgun! View Post
I had to do a 'splash & dash' with the Rover this morning, so I had a quick poke around the head lining.

The front of the head lining isn't fixed into anything. There's enough give, so any wires can be pushed over the lip. I also prodded the lining to see if there was a gap between the lining and the roof panel. There is. This got me thinking.

I'm currently working on the idea of : Removing the courtesy light and inserting a wire coat hanger in between the gap, towards the rear view mirror. Once the end emerges from the lining. I'd attach the wires (Which I'll extend) from the mirror, then pull the coat hanger out. Then I'd splice the mirror wires directly to the courtesy light wires. This should save a lot of hassle and reduce the potential for damage to other parts.

The wires on my mirror (from the photos) are different from the guide. I have Black, purple and light green. With the aid of a multi-meter. It should be easy enough to find out what wire does what.
Very good idea!

What do you mean by wire coat hanger: a sheath?
@LeRich told us that "One wire is a permanent 12v feed, the second the return to the MFU/BCU and the third is the earth. The MFU activates the lights by closing the circuit to earth, illuminating the bulbs."
So your light green (alias purple/red) must be the one returning to the MFU/BCU.
When you have a close look on the diagram 5 (12-23) in the Hayes manual, it's obvious that the purple wire is connected to the +, fuse #3, the P/R going to the alarm/immobiliser.

But who had warning us that he broke his courtesy light when trying to get it off? What is the right way to do it without breaking anything here?

Last edited by Dorchester; 08-10-2016 at 09:01.
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post #207 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 09:13 Thread Starter
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What do I mean by a wire coat hanger? It's exactly that. A coat hanger that's made of wire. Look in your wardrobe. You may have one. It's just a case of undoing the twisted bit by the hook and bending it out.

I'm not all that worried about the wires at this moment. Since the mirror is off an MG, it's not surprising that the colours could be different. At this nano-second, I reckon that black is earth. Green is live and purple is for the auto dim function. I could be wrong though.

I've not had a look at the courtesy light. I can't be hard to get out (It has to be simple to get in!). I'll have a look a bit later.
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post #208 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 09:44 Thread Starter
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Right. I've had a look at the courtesy light. It's held in with 2 8mm bolts. By cross referencing what I saw, with pictures from Ebay. Here's the reducto:

There are only 2 wires that go to the courtesy light. That'll be the live and the auto dim. There's a metal strip on the reverse side of the light that goes to a bolt hole. Obviously, this strip butts against that threaded hole that's on the roof panel (thus earthing the courtesy light).

It shouldn't be much of a problem to remove the courtesy light and solder an extra wire onto the earth strip. This wire would then be spliced onto the earth wire of the mirror. Splicing the other 2 wires shouldn't be a problem.

I don't think that there's enough room between the head lining and the roof panel to use Scotch clips. So solder and heatshrink would be the order of the day . There is another option though.

There's a bulge where the sunroof switch goes. There's plenty of room to use Scotch clips there. You could solder 3 wires on the courtesy light and feed them to the front using the coat hanger. The 3 wires could then be clipped to the wires on the mirror and then the clips poked into the bulge.
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post #209 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 09:45
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Wire coat hanger:


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post #210 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 09:46
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6 = passenger fuse box
45 = glove box light
47 = interior light
48 = luggage compartment light
P(urple) P(urple)/R(ed)
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post #211 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 09:49
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Originally Posted by Spudgun! View Post

I don't think that there's enough room between the head lining and the roof panel to use Scotch clips. So solder and heatshrink would be the order of the day . There is another option though.

There's a bulge where the sunroof switch goes. There's plenty of room to use Scotch clips there. You could solder 3 wires on the courtesy light and feed them to the front using the coat hanger. The 3 wires could then be clipped to the wires on the mirror and then the clips poked into the bulge.
I used scotch clips and placed them between interior light and the roof panel as there is a plenty of room there at least for me, in the opening of the interior light when plastic cap is removed through which you can see the roof.
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post #212 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 10:06 Thread Starter
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Wire coat hanger:


I have to ponder if there are any casual browsers on this Forum, who are wondering what a picture of a wire coat hanger is doing here. Hell. A wire coat hanger isn't exactly the latest piece of cutting edge technology. It's bizarre enough have to explain to somebody what a wire coat hanger is.

Wire coat hangers: A motorists friend. You can use them to 'mend' broken radio ariels (Are retractable ariels still used?). Left your keys in the ignition and then locked the doors? No problem. Poke a wire coat hanger through a gap in the window and lift the door button. Want to thread a wire through an awkward place? Just use a wire coat hanger! Dropped an object in an awkward place? Mr wire coat hanger to the rescue! Place a blob of blu-tac on the end of the hanger and Hey Presto! You've got your object back.

Wire coat hangers: A 1000 uses!

(Hanging coats don't count).
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post #213 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 11:04
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Originally Posted by Spudgun! View Post
I have to ponder if there are any casual browsers on this Forum, who are wondering what a picture of a wire coat hanger is doing here. Hell. A wire coat hanger isn't exactly the latest piece of cutting edge technology. It's bizarre enough have to explain to somebody what a wire coat hanger is.

Wire coat hangers: A motorists friend. You can use them to 'mend' broken radio ariels (Are retractable ariels still used?). Left your keys in the ignition and then locked the doors? No problem. Poke a wire coat hanger through a gap in the window and lift the door button. Want to thread a wire through an awkward place? Just use a wire coat hanger! Dropped an object in an awkward place? Mr wire coat hanger to the rescue! Place a blob of blu-tac on the end of the hanger and Hey Presto! You've got your object back.

Wire coat hangers: A 1000 uses!

(Hanging coats don't count).

Sorry I apologize for the disturbance I'm responsible of.
In French we say "fil de fer" that is "iron wire". And in my wardrobe, trousers and all that stuff are hanged thanks to somewhat in plastic or in wood much larger and more sophisticated that those ones.
I had been surprised by that coat hanger and I was wondering what by hell it had something to do with our wiring problem!
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post #214 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 11:25 Thread Starter
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Sorry I apologize for the disturbance I'm responsible of.
In French we say "fil de fer" that is "iron wire". And in my wardrobe, trousers and all that stuff are hanged thanks to somewhat in plastic or in wood much larger and more sophisticated that those ones.
I had been surprised by that coat hanger and I was wondering what by hell it had something to do with our wiring problem!
Don't worry. You haven't anything to apologise for. It's a language barrier thing. Just because an object has a given name in English, does not mean to say that the term has a direct translation in any other language. Other than that, I was just being ironic.
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post #215 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 14:38
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Question

But, to do it simply & properly, I'm back to my first question unanswered (sorry to quote myself!):

What is the reference of the socket needed to plug with the one of the illuminated mirror?

I see easily that both sockets may be plugged & located in the bulge, which may sort out the problem of the front connection with the mirror. The back one, with the courtesy lights, as @Roverlike told us, being done with scotch clips. I can't see myself soldering in the car, kneeling on the seats!
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post #216 of 420 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 15:16 Thread Starter
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I've no idea about the socket and lead. My mirror isn't coming with one. As a result, I'm working around the problem. The most realistic solution is to solder 3 wires onto the back of the courtesy light and then thread them towards the mirror (The soldering can be done indoors). Cut the plug off of the mirror and use Scotch clips to splice the wires.
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post #217 of 420 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 06:45
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What is the reference of the socket needed to plug with the one of the illuminated mirror?
I cut original socket and replaced it with new three way one I can source easily here locally. I used new socket in order to have possibility to be able to replace mirror if needs be.

Other part of socket needed for rear view mirror can be found in two ways, either as cut off from MG F/TF loom found on scrapyard, or as part of mirror-lamps kit intended for aftermarket installation.

Above is fast way how to get to this socket. Longer way would be to try to find socket by its refference number YPC113330.

Last edited by Roverlike; 09-10-2016 at 07:03.
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post #218 of 420 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 08:37
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I've no idea about the socket and lead. My mirror isn't coming with one. As a result, I'm working around the problem. The most realistic solution is to solder 3 wires onto the back of the courtesy light and then thread them towards the mirror (The soldering can be done indoors). Cut the plug off of the mirror and use Scotch clips to splice the wires.
Have you easily taken off the courtesy mirror and done the trick?
On my side, I'm still waiting for my rear view mirror.
The only positive point when living overseas is you have enough time to think of it and avoid the biggest mistakes (hope so!).
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post #219 of 420 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 15:57 Thread Starter
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I'm waiting for the mirror to arrive, so I haven't done anything yet.
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post #220 of 420 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 18:48
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I'm waiting for the mirror to arrive, so I haven't done anything yet.
Sorry, I thought you had already got it!
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