The Fine Art of Owning: A Rover 25 - Page 13 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #241 of 437 (permalink) Old 15-10-2016, 16:49
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Great! Congratulations!
And thanks a lot for the pics.

But, as usual, just a silly question of mine about the first pic: among your wires, blue brown & white/green: which is which between the permanent + and the dimming position assuming that the white/green is the earth?

I've just received my mirror. But the car being once more at the painter's Monday & Tuesday, I shall not be able to do the trick before Wednesday.
Just a good couple of days to collect all I need and to have all the steps of the intervention in mind.
For many of us, it's an easy job to do. But for me always the first time, so I must be careful.

Just one more pic is remaining: by night!

EDIT: BTW, what about your wobbling?
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post #242 of 437 (permalink) Old 15-10-2016, 17:13 Thread Starter
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I wired the courtesy light with the colours that were similar to the colours of the wires on the mirror. However. It has been written that mirrors have different coloured wires, so your mirror may have different colours to mine. So, with that in mind. Here's the wiring on mine.

The Green/Yellow courtesy light wire goes to the green mirror wire. The blue courtesy light wire, goes to the black mirror wire. The brown courtesy light wire, goes to the purple mirror wire.

The wobble was fixed with some superglue.
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post #243 of 437 (permalink) Old 15-10-2016, 18:11 Thread Starter
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As asked for. The final picture of the sequence. I had to use my other camera, as my normal one is old and won't work in low light.

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post #244 of 437 (permalink) Old 15-10-2016, 19:12
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Originally Posted by Spudgun! View Post
As asked for. The final picture of the sequence. I had to use my other camera, as my normal one is old and won't work in low light.
Thanks.
It looks well lighted. But I understand now why you told that the key ring would be interesting: of course you have the wheel on the right hand and hence the key is on the other side than the mirror light. I hope with my wheel on the left side and the starter on its right that I may benefit a little of a better brightness. Nevertheless the key ring remains an idea.
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post #245 of 437 (permalink) Old 15-10-2016, 20:04
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There should be a recess in the part of the mirror stalk that fits to the slug into which the wiring will fit - it can then go straight from the top centre of the stalk to the headlining looking tidy and unobtrusive rather than hanging to on side of the stalk
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post #246 of 437 (permalink) Old 15-10-2016, 20:18 Thread Starter
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There is a channel on the rear of the mirror mount in which the wires will fit. However. The notch at the top of the mount was still filled in, so I couldn't use the channel.

I could've filed out that notch, but I didn't bother. Reason being: Both the mounts for the new mirror and my old one had turned grey and I didn't notice. If I didn't notice the black plastic turning grey because of the sunlight. Who's going to notice a couple of wires?
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post #247 of 437 (permalink) Old 15-10-2016, 21:32
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I did
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post #248 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 06:58
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As asked for. The final picture of the sequence. I had to use my other camera, as my normal one is old and won't work in low light.

You might want to reconsider putting LED lights instead of regular bulbs. Putting LED lights in my wife's car produce that much light so I feel it is daylight.

Side effect might be that LEDs will produce faint light when there should be none since small amount of current still flowing. It is not enough for regular bulbs to glow, but LEDs might. There are different type of LEDs and techniques to eliminate this, but as I am not so fussed about that I do not care.

I forgott that ignition barrel is on the dark side of the steering wheel in case of RHD cars.

In case of LHD cars, ignition barrel is on the bright side of steering wheel, so barrel illumination does not have sense as it might be not visible since how much light is produced from rear view mirror map lights with LEDs inside.
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post #249 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 07:39
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You might want to reconsider putting LED lights instead of regular bulbs. Putting LED lights in my wife's car produce that much light so I feel it is daylight.

Side effect might be that LEDs will produce faint light when there should be none since small amount of current still flowing. It is not enough for regular bulbs to glow, but LEDs might. There are different type of LEDs and techniques to eliminate this, but as I am not so fussed about that I do not care.
Is it an easy swapping? Are any kind of LED able here to be fitted in place of bulbs? Any socket can do the trick?
I heard of the necessity to install a relay when swapping bulbs for LEDs...
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post #250 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 08:43
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Actally, any type of LED bulb should fit instead of regular one, with appropriate socket for the bulb. In rear view mirror you need T10 socekt type, in interior illumination light you need festoon 36 mm type.

However, how much light you will get from any LED bulb is highly depandable on LED type.

I find that FLAT SMD LEDs are providing the best light output.

With LEDs you need to think what would be the best output, depending of their intended placement and LED type.
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post #251 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 08:51 Thread Starter
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You might want to reconsider putting LED lights instead of regular bulbs. Putting LED lights in my wife's car produce that much light so I feel it is daylight.
Fitting LED's is certainly a thought. There is actually more light in the cabin than the photo portrays (Even though that camera works well in low light). The fitting of the mirror has certainly served its purpose. I can see the ignition lock without fumbling in the dark (Still not as good as the illuminated ring around the lock though).
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post #252 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 10:09 Thread Starter
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Another job has been crossed off the list. I've now got a new spare tyre! So that's 5 new tyres this year. To be honest. I don't have a 'list' left. Everything has been done. Well. A good wash and a polish wouldn't go amiss.

It's been a long 6 months since I bought the Rover 25. It's taken that long (and a heap of cash) to turn an abject nail into a tidy little vehicle. There's still room for improvement though. LED bulbs. Hmmmmmmm.......
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post #253 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 17:24
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Challenge taken up!







Sorry once more for the second & the third: I can't explain why those vertical pics, looking vertical on my Linux computer, become at once horizontal when uploaded! Probably a devilish Microsoft trick!

Comments will follow later.
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post #254 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 19:19 Thread Starter
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Well. Your camera works better than mine in low light.

I had the same orientation problem with one of my photo's. Photobucket refused flat to keep it the right way up (It's the picture of the wired mirror that's currently upside down).

The illuminated mirror works better for you, as the light would directly fall onto the ignition lock (being LHD). It looks like I'll have to give Roverlike's suggestion of LED's a try.
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post #255 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 19:50
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Well. Your camera works better than mine in low light.

I had the same orientation problem with one of my photo's. Photobucket refused flat to keep it the right way up (It's the picture of the wired mirror that's currently upside down).

The illuminated mirror works better for you, as the light would directly fall onto the ignition lock (being LHD). It looks like I'll have to give Roverlike's suggestion of LED's a try.
First @Spudgun!, I want to thank you so much for your brilliant idea: joining the rear view mirror and the courtesy light. It's fab and was probably much more doable than joining the side arches.

Then, by chance I had 2 LEDs absolutely superb but I blew one of them in a stupid short circuit while testing the mirror! Far much better, as told us @Roverlike. Hence I have to buy one another tomorrow and swap those weird greenish bulbs for fine & efficient LEDs.

All the work was plain sailing, thanks to all your explanations, your answers to my unstoppable questions and your very clear pictures.
But even I easily soldered the mirror wires with my intermediate one, I couldn't solder anything durably on the plain & flat copper surface of the courtesy light. So I knocked up the three wires, partly thanks to good sellotape tightly fastened and it works.

At last, I followed @Man in the Car's very good advice and put my wires in the channel on the rear of the mirror mount, and, as the latter was very tired, mid grey-ish mid white-ish & discoloured I sprayed a good layer of black matt paint and hey presto my mirror is now like a new one!

So I'm a happy bunny thanks to you all and this wonderful forum!
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post #256 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 20:54 Thread Starter
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Helping each other is what we're here for. Keeping cars on the road (and improving them) from a defunct Company is our objective. Glad you're happy.

There's probably one small detail that I didn't mention. When I soldered the wires to the back of the courtesy light. I scraped away any oxidisation that was on the tracks. This is probably why you couldn't get a decent solder joint. I didn't mention it as (to me anyway) it's normal to clean any surface that's about to be soldered.
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post #257 of 437 (permalink) Old 16-10-2016, 23:44
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Here's some pictures of what's under the headlining from when I replaced my roof aerial if it helps anyone. Easy enough to drop the front of headlining.














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post #258 of 437 (permalink) Old 21-10-2016, 17:20 Thread Starter
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I was very much intrigued by this thread:

Engine mount damper question

My own 1.6 25 had this part deleted because of Project Drive. I was well aware of this and stared at the illustration of where this damper was supposed to go. It was described as being on the front right engine mount. I must've peered into the engine bay for ages looking for the front right engine mount, but could never find it. So I gave up and didn't give it a second thought.

It wasn't until that thread turned up did I look again. It then dawned on me that the 'front right' was from the perspective of being sat in the drivers seat! Who the hell references engine parts from the drivers seat? Most people reference them from the front of the car! No wonder MG-Rover went bust! Anyhoo, I looked at the front left engine mount and found where the vibration damper was supposed to go:



I though for the sake of 10, I'd buy one. It arrived from Rimmer Bros today and I've fitted it:



To be honest, I don't know if it'll make any difference. It's just a 'free floating' lump of rubber. I understand the principle of how it works (Counterbalancing bob weight), but it doesn't have enough mass to make any real difference (in my mind anyway). I could be wrong though. At this moment, I think the damper was a component worthy of deletion.
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post #259 of 437 (permalink) Old 21-10-2016, 19:02
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Unhappy

Hello @Spudgun!
Can't see your pics!
Nothing appears and/or the link is not good.
Could you have another try?
Thanks.
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post #260 of 437 (permalink) Old 21-10-2016, 19:05
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It then dawned on me that the 'front right' was from the perspective of being sat in the drivers seat! Who the hell references engine parts from the drivers seat? Most people reference them from the front of the car! No wonder MG-Rover went bust!


Referencing left and right as if you are sitting in the car is the normal way in my experience. For example RHD and LHD reference from where you are sitting, not from standing in from of the car.
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