The Fine Art of Owning: A Rover 25 - Page 5 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #81 of 420 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 14:51 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Roverlike View Post
Actually not sure which label would be bonnet stay? Cannot say I remember seeing one?
The Bonnet Stay label was an early casualty of Project Drive. Also, some of the labels on the Rimmer Bros list aren't illustrated. As I've mentioned above. There are 4 place holders for the labels. If you look closely at the front bumper area in between the retaining bolts. You can see where the labels go. From assorted pictures of Rover 25's that I have seen. They run (from left to right) in this sequence:

1: Bonnet Stay.
2: Fan Caution Label.
3: Unknown.
4: Air-Con Gas label.

Only the Air-Con Gas label is available.
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post #82 of 420 (permalink) Old 13-08-2016, 10:52
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These gaitors are mint mate, had 3 in two months, they smell lush.


LINK: FITS ROVER 200 25 96-02 GEAR GAITER STICK BOOT REAL LEATHER | eBay
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post #83 of 420 (permalink) Old 17-08-2016, 18:43 Thread Starter
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I actually fitted my leather gaiter over the weekend. It was a simple job. However, when I took the centre console out, it looked like a Persian cat had been fighting an Angora rabbit in there and both of them had lost! I've never seen so much pet hair.

I'll have to get the cleaner out again!
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post #84 of 420 (permalink) Old 17-08-2016, 21:08
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That was an enjoyable read. Its nice to see some people do take car of their cars how they should. Mines a few months away from being completed. Just spent the evening repairing the MK2 bumper where it has split across the bottom.

The car looks weird with the MK1 ZR bumper and lights back on and a Mk2 rear bumper as i came to the conclusion that the front bumper will have to be off the car to get it completely painted. No point in refitting it until its done. Have put the Mk1 front back on just so i can still drive it.
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post #85 of 420 (permalink) Old 19-08-2016, 18:52 Thread Starter
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Spiders. They're the bane of my life. I don't mind them running up the walls of the house, or lurking behind furniture, but I draw the line at spiders taking up residence in my car! Under normal circumstances, they lurk in the wing mirrors. The webs they build are easily removed. A quick squirt of Bradex Easy Start deals with the spider. Well, for a week or so. Then another spider comes along. Sods! It's the ones that builds webs inside the cabin that get my goat. I never seem to be able to get rid of them. I've currently got two running amok I never seem able to catch them out in the open. Grrrrrrrr!!! Moving swiftly along......

I'm getting my front two tyres changed on Sunday morning. It should be an interesting experience (Hopefully not though). The tyres that are currently on the front are perfectly legal. They might even last another year. So why change them? Firstly, they're the wrong size. They're supposed to be 185/65/14's. I've got 185/60/14's. They're also an odd pair. In other words; Two different makes. The rubber on one tyre has actually started to crack.I've always had tyres fitted in pairs. Both tyres have got different amounts of wear on them. Both tyres had been over inflated by a previous owner. Instead of 28psi. They both had 35psi. As a result. Both tyres had uneven wear (The outside edges were worn more than the rest of the tyre). As a result; They've got to go!

I'm kind of expecting: There's nothing wrong with these tyres. They don't need changing (Highly unlikely). It's more likely to hear: You've ordered the wrong tyres mate. You want 175/65/14's (I had a similar situation when I had my Rover 400). Then I'll have to explain at great length that the 175/65/14's are the correct size for the 1.1 and the 1.4 Rover 25's, but not the 1.6 (I had to explain that the quoted tyres size for the Rover 400 was for the steel wheel and not for the alloys I had on the car).

I'll let everyone know how I get on.
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post #86 of 420 (permalink) Old 19-08-2016, 20:35
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......Both tyres have got different amounts of wear on them. Both tyres had been over inflated by a previous owner. Instead of 28psi. They both had 35psi. As a result. Both tyres had uneven wear (The outside edges were worn more than the rest of the tyre)..
Over inflation will cause the tread to wear more in the middle of the tyre; excessive wear on the outside edges would be caused by underinflation or tracking misalignment. I know the ZR tyres are not the same ilk, but I run my fronts at 34 psi, which I have found seems to make the car a little more sure footed with the current cheapo tyres on it (I have a set of better quality new ones to go on before the winter)

I have noticed that some 'budget' makes of tyre seem to wear unevenly all of their own accord, which could well be the case with yours?
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post #87 of 420 (permalink) Old 19-08-2016, 21:07 Thread Starter
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One tyre on the front is a Pirelli. I can't remember the make of the other. It could be a tracking issue. It just doesn't make any sense.

I once had a Triumph Herald. It would eat tyres for breakfast. The outside edges on both tyres would wear out in 3000 miles. It wasn't until I got a proper pressure gauge that I found out what the problem was. The tyres were over inflated. Now. The Herald had an articulated rear axle., which means the wheels had a pronounced camber (One Policeman thought my rear axle was broken). Once the correct pressures were used, the tyres lasted a lot longer.

My rear tyres also are also worn on the outside edge. They were also at 35psi. It could be argued that the tyres that are on the back were once on the front (Tyre rotation is normal practice). However. If the tracking was out. I'd expect the wear to be uneven from one side to the other (as it was on my old 400). The wear appears to be the same (Even with no scrubbing)

It's true that an over inflated tyre should wear more in the center than on the outside. But when camber is taken into account. Tyre pressure is my first suspect.

What's the betting that when the new front tyres get fitted, they'll want to check the tracking?
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post #88 of 420 (permalink) Old 19-08-2016, 21:20
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I always buy my tyres online and get the garage next door to where i work to fit them for me. I can generally save about 20 a tyre. The 205/45 17 tyres i used to have weren't cheap from the local tyre dealer, they wanted about 140 for the two. I got some delivered for under 80.

I took them off in the end as i felt the ride was too harsh with the 17" Straights fitted, especially with the lowering springs. Its a pity as the front tyres were only replaced about 6 weeks ago.

I will get rid of them in due course and get a set of 16" Trophy Alloys if i can find some locally.
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post #89 of 420 (permalink) Old 20-08-2016, 09:04
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My rear tyres also are also worn on the outside edge. They were also at 35psi. It could be argued that the tyres that are on the back were once on the front (Tyre rotation is normal practice). However. If the tracking was out. I'd expect the wear to be uneven from one side to the other (as it was on my old 400). The wear appears to be the same (Even with no scrubbing)

It's true that an over inflated tyre should wear more in the center than on the outside. But when camber is taken into account. Tyre pressure is my first suspect.
Tyres will always tend to wear more on the outer edge due to cornering (the front ones even more noticeably so), so I would expect such wear on any tyre that has been on the front.

If the tracking is misaligned, it will cause excessive wear on the outer edge where there is excessive toe-in, and wear on the inner edge when there is toe-out. Where a tyre has excessive wear on both outer edges, it is usually due to under inflation, or sometimes where a front tyre has been removed and refitted the other way on the rim to even the wear out (not possible with many tyres nowadays which have an 'outside' and an 'inside', but tyres with directional treads can be swapped from one side to the other).

I really don't think that 35psi is over inflated by a sufficient amount to cause any noticeable wear in any case.
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post #90 of 420 (permalink) Old 20-08-2016, 11:58 Thread Starter
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It's a pity that it's raining. Otherwise, I'd take some pictures of the tyres so you could see the extent of the problem. And now for a diversion.....

When I bought my 25. It came without the normal information that goes with these cars (Unlike my old 400 which came with everything). I got the Handbook and a single key with its fob. That's it! Of course, this meant that I needed the EKA code (A new key can come later). I have to give mgrovercodes two thumbs up for their service. I think that 20 is a fair price for the code. After I received it, I went out and tested it. It worked!

Now. There appears to be some variation in the instructions and consequences in entering the code. I used the instructions provided by mgrovercodes and they're more accurate than the instructions in the Rover 25 Handbook. However, there were some differences in what happened when I entered the code.

The first step was to put the key into the drivers door and turn it clockwise and hold it there for 5 seconds. Then return the key to the central position.

The second step was to turn the key anti-clockwise for the number of the first code digit. What I wasn't expecting was the alarm to sound. When the key was returned to the central position. The alarm stopped. The entry for the 2nd, 3rd and 4th occurred as per the instructions. Once finished, the horn sounded to indicate a successful code entry (Again, not mentioned in the mgrovercodes instructions). I could then open the door by turning the key to the unlock position.

The mgrovercodes instructions mentions that the indicator light would stop flashing upon a successful code entry. It didn't. It kept flashing. It didn't stop flashing until I had put the key into the ignition and turned it. The light went off and the engine fired right up (Boy. Did the Handbook get that one wrong!).

I even tested the whole thing by locking the car with the key and restarting the car. The immobiliser was well and truely deactivated. Normality was resumed when the plip was used again.

I reckon that there are some variations in the SCU's. This would account for the discrepancies in the instructions for using the EKA code. I'm not all that worried though. I've got a working EKA code and that's all that matters.
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post #91 of 420 (permalink) Old 20-08-2016, 19:43
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Could be worse.











I do have this set-up on my drive, must be lucky.



Dorchester likes this.
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post #92 of 420 (permalink) Old 20-08-2016, 20:11 Thread Starter
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Ye Gods. I thought I had problems, but I've got nothing on you!
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post #93 of 420 (permalink) Old 20-08-2016, 20:18
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Could be worse.



I do have this set-up on my drive, must be lucky.

So cute! Even the web and her progeny.
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post #94 of 420 (permalink) Old 20-08-2016, 21:37
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.......Now. There appears to be some variation in the instructions and consequences in entering the code. I used the instructions provided by mgrovercodes and they're more accurate than the instructions in the Rover 25 Handbook. However, there were some differences in what happened when I entered the code.

The first step was to put the key into the drivers door and turn it clockwise and hold it there for 5 seconds. Then return the key to the central position. .
It sounds as though mgrovercodes have supplied the instructions for using the EKA code with the early 25s up to 2001/2. The handbooks for those cars stated the requirement to hold the key clockwise for 5 seconds before entering the code.

From 2002, the requirement to hold the key clockwise for 5 seconds no longer applied and was not given in 2002 on owners handbooks. The drivers door should be locked, and the EKA entry procedure can begin without any prior turning of the key in the lock.

On successful completion of EKA entry, the LED in the instrument cluster should normally illuminate continuously for a few seconds. On the later cars, there should normally be a five minute delay before the immobiliser disarms, during which time the car should not be unlocked with the plip and the key should not be inserted into the ignition barrel.

Using the EKA should only disarm the immobiliser for one start-stop cycle; ie. if the car engine is started and run, the immobiliser will passively re-arm again a few seconds after the engine is turned off.
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post #95 of 420 (permalink) Old 21-08-2016, 06:54
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It sounds as though mgrovercodes have supplied the instructions for using the EKA code with the early 25s up to 2001/2. The handbooks for those cars stated the requirement to hold the key clockwise for 5 seconds before entering the code.

From 2002, the requirement to hold the key clockwise for 5 seconds no longer applied and was not given in 2002 on owners handbooks. The drivers door should be locked, and the EKA entry procedure can begin without any prior turning of the key in the lock.

On successful completion of EKA entry, the LED in the instrument cluster should normally illuminate continuously for a few seconds. On the later cars, there should normally be a five minute delay before the immobiliser disarms, during which time the car should not be unlocked with the plip and the key should not be inserted into the ignition barrel.

Using the EKA should only disarm the immobiliser for one start-stop cycle; ie. if the car engine is started and run, the immobiliser will passively re-arm again a few seconds after the engine is turned off.
I have to get my hands on Owners manual for cars with Pektron system.

One thing is interesting: does this mean that on later 25 with 5AS system there is different way of entering EKA code then earlier versions? If so, how 5AS boxes can be diferentiated from earlier ones from outside? I never seen pointers on this except there are different version of software in the 5AS boxes.

Further does that mean that this same principle of later 25 5AS boxes is used on Pektron systems? Without 5 sec holding the key as first step, 5 minutes not opening the door and EKA code valid only for one start-stop cycle.
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post #96 of 420 (permalink) Old 21-08-2016, 07:23 Thread Starter
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I've read through a number of EKA entry related threads and there doesn't seem to be any consistency (Beyond Lucas verses Pektron). At best, what has been written could be divided into two groups: Those who are reciting the Owners Handbook and those who have actually used their EKA code to open and start the car.

The procedure in my Handbook doesn't mention the first turn and 5 second hold of the key. It does mention the 5 minute delay before starting the engine. However, the engine fired right up without that 5 minute delay. I haven't tested the 10 minute re-arming period (after the engine is switched off), so that might be worth looking at (Some have written that the immobiliser is permanently switched off until the plip is used again).

What we have is a discrepancy between the Handbook and the reality of EKA entry.
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post #97 of 420 (permalink) Old 21-08-2016, 12:28 Thread Starter
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Well. I've got the front two tyres changed. What a palava! I went in at the appointed time and asked for the front tyres to be changed. 'Chummy' confirmed the new front tyres. What happened? They went and changed the REAR tyres! I didn't notice until I got home.

Off I go to cause havoc. Due to an asshat pedestrian, I had to take avoiding action while turning a corner. I now have a scraped and dented rear passenger door (Had to turn the corner tighter to avoid the asshat and hit a low bollard). Anyhoo, I got back to the tyre depot.

'Chummy' explained that the rear tyres were changed because the tread was at 2mm, while the front's had about 5mm. I replied that I wanted the fronts changed because they were the wrong size (185/60/14's). An odd pair and that the rubber had perished on one side. Yes, the rears were low, but they were the right size and the rubber was in good condition. To cut a long story short. Everything has been put right.

Could've done without the dent though.
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post #98 of 420 (permalink) Old 21-08-2016, 12:31
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Sorry to hear that
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post #99 of 420 (permalink) Old 21-08-2016, 13:08 Thread Starter
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Sorry to hear that
Yeah, it's annoying. Under normal circumstances, I wouldn't be bothered about the tyre screw-up (My Rover is already booked in to have the rear tyres changed), but it's the principle that counts. If I ask for the front tyres to be changed. I expect the front tyres to be changed. Not for some twerp to decide that I'm wrong and to do something different.

The scrape and dent was pretty much random chance.
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post #100 of 420 (permalink) Old 21-08-2016, 21:33
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[QUOTE=ROVER-25X;8443425]Could be worse.








KILL IT! KILL IT WITH FIRE!!!!!
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