Hi all, I'm Iain from Leeds, I've owned a lot of Austin and rover cars, I currently have 3 metros
Anyhow I e just bought a 2005 diesel, was a bargain!
The cars done 88500 miles, but no history, so as it will be a daily and I look after my cars, I want it spot on
So I've no idea when the timing belt was changed, so I want to change this, the pulley and tensioner and water pump
Question is, I've never done o e before, the Haynes manual seems ok, but wondered if anyone has any knowledge on this? Also does anyone/anywhere sell the whole kit (Ie pulley belt pump etc)
Recommended cam belt change interval for the L series diesel is 48k miles or four years; if you have no record of when they were last done, it is cerainly a good idea to change them for peace of mind.
Complete service kits should be available from any XPart agent, or motor factors. DMGRS (an mg-rover.org trader supporter) has Dayco kits for mail order: - L Series Engine Parts | Discount MG Rover Spares
You will probably find a lot of good advice in the diesel subforum
The water pump on the L series diesel is driven by the auxiliary drive belt (through the PAS pump) and can be changed without disturbing the camshaft drive belt. So it is not necessary to replace it when changing the camshaft drive belt - you can just wait until it fails. I would expect the existing pump to outlast the camshaft drive belt you will shortly be fitting.
You do however want to be replacing the Fuel Injection Pump drive belt at the same time as the camshaft drive belt.
Don't forgot the fuel pump belt on the other side of the engine.
I ve done a few , clearance between the engine and bulkhead is tight you have to use a jack on the engine to push it up or down to get better access plus fitting the flywheel pin is not easy accessed.
Easy to do as said remove the engine mount as it's bolted on over the cambelt if you buy the kit from DMGRS you get everything just need to order the locking pins as well and an aux belt while you're there, the pins/drill bits are the exact size for the crank so you know when you have the right hole and what I mean by this is you can't really see the hole just feel for it around where the crankshaft sensor is you may be able to see from under the car.
I found if you do one belt at a time they don't move as you lock the pump and the crank and both belts are connected to the cam so one belt is always holding the cam in place, this is how I did it but I may not be right
When changing the fuel pump belt remember to tension the belt BEFORE re-tightening the cam pulley bolts (x4). If you don't you'll pull the timing out when you tension the belt which is the usual mistake even reputable garages make.
Do one belt at a time. (personally I do the cambelt first).
Crank pulley is flippin tight
Engine mount will need to be removed if you are changing the idler pulley. (It doesn't require changing at every belt change in my experience though). A trolley jack with a block of wood on it under the sump makes it easier to jack the end of the engine up and down to improve access to the various bolts.
When doing the fuel pump belt tension it before removing timing pins and tightening the cam locating bolts.
After fitting the cam belt remove the timing pin and rotate the engine twice using a socket on the crank pulley. It'll be difficult to turn but if it becomes impossible then you've done something wrong! This checks that pistons aren't hitting valves.
Really it isn't that difficult, just fiddly on some models due to space. You don't actually spend a lot of time under the car as most is done from above.
Oh yes remove the wheel first to make access easier too!
Yes defo as I've watched the video over and over and matched it up
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