A quick guide to installing a new clock.
tools needed:
Flat Blade Screwdriver (to remove clock surround)
Cross Head Screwdriver (to undo clock screws)
Electrical Tape
Hacksaw or Side Cutters (to remove part of the old clock surround supports)
depending on how you join your wires you will need some or all of the below items:
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Crimps
Bullet Connectors
Pin
Chocolate Block (and screwdriver for this)
a word of warning do not try to chop the new clocks power plug off and wire it straight in as this clock does NOT run directly off 12v dc, the cigarette lighter plug with your new clock reduces the voltage supplied to the clock to 3.5v dc, i tried this option first and fried both backlight led's and a resistor on the clocks pcb so had to buy a new clock. my fault for being silly and assuming it ran on 12v dc
if you want to be safe you should disconnect your car battery before starting work, however i did not. as always all work carried out buy yourself is at your own risk
appologies for the first 2 pictures (these are borrowed from another thread) however the rest of the pictures are my own.
start by removing the clock surround:
then undo the 2 screws holding the standard clock in place:
you can now pull out the plug from the back of the standard clock, it might be stiff.
the next step is to wire in your new "hidden" lighter socket.
you can either use a pin to release the standard clock contacts (which means you can revert back to the standard clock easily leaving no trace that you have changed it)
or you can chop the wires off the plug but that will be harder to return to standard
there are 2 different ways to wire up the clock. if you ware it into the 12v ignition the clock will light up when ignition is turned on (as per standard)
or you can wire the clock up to the 12v illumination suply which lights up the clock when you turn your side lights on (this way does not matter if you have the key in ignition or not)
if you have a 4 pin clock you can use the black wire (ground) and the green wire (12v ignition) or you can use black wire (ground) and the red/black striped wire (illimination)
if you have the 8 pin clock you can use the black wire (ground) and the green/white striped wired (12v ignition) or you can use black wire (ground) and red/black striped wire (illumination)
space is quite tight in there and there is not alot of slack in the cables.
you can now join the wires with either bullet connectors or chocolate block, or any other method you see fit. i decided to use a chocolate block (not actual chocolate for any muppets reading this) i chose this method as it ment i could keep the standard clock pins intact. i then wired in my lighter socket to the other side of the chocolate block and wraped the block in electrical tape to protect from moisture.
now that you have made the above connections you can plug your new clocks power cable into your newly wired in lighter socket:
i wrapped a bit of electrical tape round the socket and plug to make sure it cant vibrate loose.
you can connect your car battery back up at this point if you disconnected it before starting. and check everything (including your new clock) plug the power lead into your new clock and check that the back light comes on.
if you wired it up to 12v ignition the clock should like up when you turn the ignition on
if you followed me and wired the clock into the 12v illumination supply your clock will light up when you switch your side lights on.
there is a square silver switch on the side of the clock, this changes the back light between orange and blue. set this to the colour you want.
i decided to wire mine up to the lights as i found the clock really clean and easy to read durring the day and found no need for the backlight to be used.
grab your hacksaw for this next bit as you need to remove part of the right hand side support as indicated in red in the picture below. again space is tight so be careful, but dont worry you can still fit the standard clock back in if needed.
now you can mount your new clock to the standard clock surround, i used electrical tape as it seemed the easiest way. mine is actually held very well and its really solid its not moving any time soon.
not the most tidy job but its very stable and its out of view anyway.
this next stage is up to you and where you want your outside temperature sensor to be located. i decided to feed mine inside the dash towards to passenger front wing and mine follows the path marked in red.
its all hidden and out of the way, and it wont obstruct your airbag should you have one fitted in place of my dash pocket.
my sensor is currently resting in my glove box with 50cm of spare wire (as i have not got around to putting the sensor inside the wing)
all that is left to do now is tuck all the wires for the new clock behind the dash where the clock fits, there should be plenty of space.
as you can see from the above picture the power cable sticks out the side of the clock and you can now see why we needed to remove part of the dash in order to accomodate the power cable
now just carefully push the clock and surround back into the dash and it should look like this:
http://i53.tinypic.com/6yecd0.jpg
job done.
tools needed:
Flat Blade Screwdriver (to remove clock surround)
Cross Head Screwdriver (to undo clock screws)
Electrical Tape
Hacksaw or Side Cutters (to remove part of the old clock surround supports)
depending on how you join your wires you will need some or all of the below items:
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Crimps
Bullet Connectors
Pin
Chocolate Block (and screwdriver for this)
a word of warning do not try to chop the new clocks power plug off and wire it straight in as this clock does NOT run directly off 12v dc, the cigarette lighter plug with your new clock reduces the voltage supplied to the clock to 3.5v dc, i tried this option first and fried both backlight led's and a resistor on the clocks pcb so had to buy a new clock. my fault for being silly and assuming it ran on 12v dc
if you want to be safe you should disconnect your car battery before starting work, however i did not. as always all work carried out buy yourself is at your own risk
appologies for the first 2 pictures (these are borrowed from another thread) however the rest of the pictures are my own.
start by removing the clock surround:
then undo the 2 screws holding the standard clock in place:
you can now pull out the plug from the back of the standard clock, it might be stiff.
the next step is to wire in your new "hidden" lighter socket.
you can either use a pin to release the standard clock contacts (which means you can revert back to the standard clock easily leaving no trace that you have changed it)
or you can chop the wires off the plug but that will be harder to return to standard
there are 2 different ways to wire up the clock. if you ware it into the 12v ignition the clock will light up when ignition is turned on (as per standard)
or you can wire the clock up to the 12v illumination suply which lights up the clock when you turn your side lights on (this way does not matter if you have the key in ignition or not)
if you have a 4 pin clock you can use the black wire (ground) and the green wire (12v ignition) or you can use black wire (ground) and the red/black striped wire (illimination)
if you have the 8 pin clock you can use the black wire (ground) and the green/white striped wired (12v ignition) or you can use black wire (ground) and red/black striped wire (illumination)
space is quite tight in there and there is not alot of slack in the cables.
you can now join the wires with either bullet connectors or chocolate block, or any other method you see fit. i decided to use a chocolate block (not actual chocolate for any muppets reading this) i chose this method as it ment i could keep the standard clock pins intact. i then wired in my lighter socket to the other side of the chocolate block and wraped the block in electrical tape to protect from moisture.
now that you have made the above connections you can plug your new clocks power cable into your newly wired in lighter socket:
i wrapped a bit of electrical tape round the socket and plug to make sure it cant vibrate loose.
you can connect your car battery back up at this point if you disconnected it before starting. and check everything (including your new clock) plug the power lead into your new clock and check that the back light comes on.
if you wired it up to 12v ignition the clock should like up when you turn the ignition on
if you followed me and wired the clock into the 12v illumination supply your clock will light up when you switch your side lights on.
there is a square silver switch on the side of the clock, this changes the back light between orange and blue. set this to the colour you want.
i decided to wire mine up to the lights as i found the clock really clean and easy to read durring the day and found no need for the backlight to be used.
grab your hacksaw for this next bit as you need to remove part of the right hand side support as indicated in red in the picture below. again space is tight so be careful, but dont worry you can still fit the standard clock back in if needed.
now you can mount your new clock to the standard clock surround, i used electrical tape as it seemed the easiest way. mine is actually held very well and its really solid its not moving any time soon.
not the most tidy job but its very stable and its out of view anyway.
this next stage is up to you and where you want your outside temperature sensor to be located. i decided to feed mine inside the dash towards to passenger front wing and mine follows the path marked in red.
its all hidden and out of the way, and it wont obstruct your airbag should you have one fitted in place of my dash pocket.
my sensor is currently resting in my glove box with 50cm of spare wire (as i have not got around to putting the sensor inside the wing)
all that is left to do now is tuck all the wires for the new clock behind the dash where the clock fits, there should be plenty of space.
as you can see from the above picture the power cable sticks out the side of the clock and you can now see why we needed to remove part of the dash in order to accomodate the power cable
now just carefully push the clock and surround back into the dash and it should look like this:
http://i53.tinypic.com/6yecd0.jpg
job done.