OK I've searched and read the forums first and found a few helpful threads. I've checked my battery and it is fine. I've also checked the earth to the car body which is also fine.
I am now suspecting it is the big thick earth wire that goes to the starter motor so I'm about to jack it up and look at that. I wanted to check first though before I blow everything up, do I need to disconnect the battery to repair this wire if it is corroded?
If it isn't this lead, what else should I be checking?
No expert but have tried to locate where clicking coming from relay ? or the solenoid ? starter ? if you narrow it down might help some one on here tell how to fix it
Thanks for replying. Seems it's my alternator that is kaput. I left it on charge to be sure as the wire was fine. Managed to start it normally after about 5hrs on charge so nipped out in it and it struggled to start again. On the way home the odometer went blank and the revs and speedo dropped as if the car wasn't running, even though it was...
Does the above point towards the alternator? I'm not very good with cars and am guessing... If so where can I pick one up cheap as I only plan on keeping the car for a few months as it needs too much work doing, more than the cars value, so I am planning on running it till the end of my MOT which is the end of November. Will probably scrap it then...
Thats classic alternator failure. My 105 MG did exactly the same thing last year, once the clocks stop working you have about 5 minutes before the car stops and it dies completely as the battery isn't charging. Might sound daft but would i be right in assuming the battery light isn't illuminating. If it isn't that's the diode pack on the alternator caput. Time for a new alternator either way.
I would just get one from the local scrappy if your not keeping the car as your looking upward of £50 for a reconditioned one.
The rapid clicking is just the solenoid kicking over as there isn't enough juice in the battery to turn the starter motor.
I know this is cheeky but if you do scrap it, i might be interested in the engine and all the management bits & bobs if you decide to break it as my 105 is getting a bit boring now, although it would be a shame to see another MG go to its doom. Bolton is only an hour or so up the road from me so its ideal.
You would definitely get more for the car if you break it as the scrap yard will give you nothing for it as scrap metal is at rock bottom at the moment.
Thanks for the confirmation. I'll look at getting one from the scrappy when I get back from holiday as we fly out tomorrow so I don't want the hassle now. I'll also keep in mind about scrapping it, but would rather you take the whole car as I don't have a clue how to break it or dispose of it!
Someone has just mentioned to me that there is a fuse on the alternator that sometimes blows. Is this replaceable and is there a way to test it? I've got it on a slow charge overnight to hopefully get some juice back into the battery, it's a heavy duty one and only a couple of years old tops so hoping it's OK.
They also mentioned that if this fuse is blown it will just leak out power from the battery and make it flat again. With us going away for 2 weeks would it be best to disconnect the earth from the battery, or will this cause issues with the ECU/Alarm etc?
Fuse on the alternator?? Thats a new one on me. Unless they are talking about the large amperage fuses in the engine bay fuse/relay box. You can check these with a multi-meter to see if there is power on both sides of the fuse. Usually the diode pack goes down on the back of the alternator and its game over for it. I've had it happen twice on mine, one with the original alternator and one with a reconditioned one.
You can replace the diode pack but to be honest its just easier getting a whole alternator from the scrappy or motor factors.
Disconnecting the battery shouldn't cause any issues. During the reshell of mine everything had no power for about 3 months. Once the battery was connected, it was the obligatory pressing of the fob until the car locked itself. Once it was opened off the fob again, the mobiliser and alarm switched off and it started first time.
As for scrapping it, lets wait until nearer the time. You may well change your mind. Mine was written off earlier this year and i re-shelled it. Its cost me a lot more money than it would have been to replace it. It was a right kick in the teeth when the DVLA wouldn't let me transfer the reg over to the new shell as the replacement body shell was from a 2000 Rover 25. Its now classed as a Rover 25 even though all the running gear, engine, Gearbox, ecu and interior are 100% ZR from the old vehicle..
Still i suppose i have a reason to get a private plate now
Recently got back from holiday so sorry for not replying sooner. I haven't connected the battery up yet but I'm sure it will be fine. I am having trouble finding a local scrappy that has them in stock though...
Did some more searching of the forum and it seems that as mine is the facelift ZR that anything 2001 onwards from a 25/ZR, 45/ZS and MGF/TF will fit?
Could anyone kindly recommend anywhere in the Bolton area to get one from?
if the alternator was not charging you would have a battery light showing on the dash
most likely, it will be a failing battery, especially as you say you charged it, then it would not start the car after a few hours, its just not holding its charge.
I reckon, if you change the alternator, your problem is going to remain.
Not necessarily. If the diode pack goes on the alternator you will have no battery light showing at all, i know that from experience on both my old ZR and the car i have now.
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