###permanently Disable Rover Immobiliser### - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 09:14 Thread Starter
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Exclamation ###permanently Disable Rover Immobiliser###

I'm one of the many thousands of rover owners who have had trouble with the rover alarm/immobiliser acting up. Despite intense searching on these forums it still appears to be a problem. People claim that the immobiliser cannot be disconnected so the best option for everyone is to pay an arm and a leg to get a new key linked to their ECU.

However, there seems to be a light at the end of the tunnel. The rover stuff CAN be disconnected...for good! Never worry about it again!

Got my '95 coupe sorted last weekend and it's made me the happiest man alive (after getting stuck at the petrol station more than once unable to disable it to drive away). I never had that EKA code and tried all the tricks mentioned on these forums to no avail.

PLEASE NOTE: you'll obviously do best installing a third party alarm system before removing the rover stuff. I've had a Clifford cat1 system on it since I bought the car. (First had to use the Clifford fob to get in the car, then use the rover fob to disarm immobiliser, then use another Clifford fob to stick in a slot to disarm the Clifford immobiliser! I could never make a quick getaway!) Disabling the rover stuff did not affect the Clifford stuff at all.

Steve.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 09:53
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you can get Rover immobiliser bypasses on ebay
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 10:14
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Not that particular cheap though............50
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 10:49
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can't you just remove the fuse from the immobliser?

As long as it wasn't armed at the time you should have no problems right?

However never tried it because i have my 4 digit code and engraved into my brain and other body locations to prevent me from banging my head against the car when i get it started
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 12:23
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If it was that easy to bypass it then there would be no point having it.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 16:59
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Arm and a leg to get a fob programmed...what 35 all in?
The fobs don't last forever, so for all those people who bang on about problems with the immobilser, maybe they need to take this into account and realise it's just another consumable part that lives a fairly hard life and just go out and get a replacement and another spare when it begins to play up?
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 09:46 Thread Starter
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Is 35 just for the programming? That's just the 'arm', the 'leg' is the fob too (he he). 65 is about the price for a new fob and programming. RemoteKey Ltd were reccommended various times to me for this service.

I paid 50 to never have to worry about a faulty fob/immobiliser again. If I didn't have a third party system on the car I would have gone down the new fob route.

Some people say keep both systems on the car. It's personal choice. For me, having the rover stuff too was just a pain.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 12:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashy View Post
Arm and a leg to get a fob programmed...what 35 all in?
The fobs don't last forever, so for all those people who bang on about problems with the immobilser, maybe they need to take this into account and realise it's just another consumable part that lives a fairly hard life and just go out and get a replacement and another spare when it begins to play up?
Agreed or why don't people just find out what there code is much easier. I have two sets of keys, both with new batteries and have recently been resynced. Cost me next to nothing and I am not moaning, why because your manual tells you they don't last forever and when the battery etc. is about to go.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 12:33
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Remote Key are great! Got Emps EKA for him for next to nothing. And stopped my immobiliser in the coop from auto-arming. Also I grabbed about 4 fobs from ebay all have been tested and work. I got 2 programmed at an MG Rover place in Widnes for my 25 for half hours labour which was about 20 inc VAT.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 17:29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birchuk View Post
Is 35 just for the programming? That's just the 'arm', the 'leg' is the fob too (he he). 65 is about the price for a new fob and programming.
5 for a practically new fob from Ebay and 25-35 for 5 min programming.
Not everybody wants to shell out for a new system on an old Rover.
EKA is 4 on Ebay.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 17:39
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Seems I am having the opposite problem to everyone else, I can no longer get my alarm/ immobiliser to arm.

It doesn't turn on when I lock the drivers door or when I use the fob anymore and the red light on the dash no longer flashes.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 17:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus605 View Post
Seems I am having the opposite problem to everyone else, I can no longer get my alarm/ immobiliser to arm.

It doesn't turn on when I lock the drivers door or when I use the fob anymore and the red light on the dash no longer flashes.
Passive or non passive key fob?
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 17:44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashy View Post
Passive or non passive key fob?
You have to bear in mind you're talking to a bit of an idiot lol.

The fob only controls the alarm, no central locking or anything like that, if that's what you mean.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 18:11
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Do you have to press the button on the fob to disable the alarm or does it do it automatically when the fob is near the car?
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 21:32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashy View Post
Do you have to press the button on the fob to disable the alarm or does it do it automatically when the fob is near the car?
You have to press the button.

Pretty annoying pressing the button to disarm and then having to put the key in the door to unlock.

I do have a Maplin central locking kit but haven't got around to fitting it yet.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 22:14
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Does the LED illuminate at all?

If not I'd guess that the 15A CDL fuse in the engine bay fusebox is blown, possibly because the tailgate wiring loom has caused a short.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 09:54
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reprogamming

Quote:
Originally Posted by ashy View Post
5 for a practically new fob from Ebay and 25-35 for 5 min programming.
Not everybody wants to shell out for a new system on an old Rover.
EKA is 4 on Ebay.

Hi where is the best place to get reprogramming from pls at that price above
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 30-12-2014, 15:44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birchuk View Post
I'm one of the many thousands of rover owners who have had trouble with the rover alarm/immobiliser acting up. Despite intense searching on these forums it still appears to be a problem. People claim that the immobiliser cannot be disconnected so the best option for everyone is to pay an arm and a leg to get a new key linked to their ECU.

However, there seems to be a light at the end of the tunnel. The rover stuff CAN be disconnected...for good! Never worry about it again!

Got my '95 coupe sorted last weekend and it's made me the happiest man alive (after getting stuck at the petrol station more than once unable to disable it to drive away). I never had that EKA code and tried all the tricks mentioned on these forums to no avail.

PLEASE NOTE: you'll obviously do best installing a third party alarm system before removing the rover stuff. I've had a Clifford cat1 system on it since I bought the car. (First had to use the Clifford fob to get in the car, then use the rover fob to disarm immobiliser, then use another Clifford fob to stick in a slot to disarm the Clifford immobiliser! I could never make a quick getaway!) Disabling the rover stuff did not affect the Clifford stuff at all.

Steve.
Rover 25 w reg - battery went flat - recharged x3 - turn ignition alarm activates, fob does not deactivate - car obviously wont start - anybody with any ideas?
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 07:26
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Bypass Streetwise Immobillizer

Hi, I have a Streetwise 2003 I think, the immobilizer has packed up, the driver's door lock has been damaged in an attempted break in. Took the car to 3 Auto electricians, the result, received the car back Tuesday with the key fob destroyed, doors locked and still NO solution for the alarm. I have since tho, managed to unlock the doors via the central locking wiring under the cubby, I have got ignition, fuel and pressure, good spark and the engine starts, problem is that it cuts out 30 seconds after startup... Any solutions?? Please??
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