ROVER 25, 2.0 IDT ... MAP or EGR problem - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 23-11-2016, 16:50 Thread Starter
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ROVER 25, 2.0 IDT ... MAP or EGR problem

Engine does not go round interrupts, almost stops smoking area hard ... MAP / EGR hear a strange sound, like a "taca taca taca" ... and when putting out The vacuum betwen MAP and EGR engine recovers and works perfectly.

2 weeks ago i dismantled EGR and I cleaned with a solution for carburetors, I installed and worked perfectly so far! EGR is faulty or MAP?

What solutions do I have in this case?

If you go with The vacuum out, what happens?

NEED HELP MY FRIENDS!!!
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 23-11-2016, 16:56
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If it runs fine with the vacuum disconnected (and blocked) then it is probably a sticking EGR. Simple blank it off or close it and leave the valve disconnected.
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 23-11-2016, 16:59 Thread Starter
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i only take the vacuum out...i haven't blocked anything...and it's runs normally...i need to block something? with that vacuum out, doesn't damage the engine...or something?
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 23-11-2016, 17:14 Thread Starter
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my car right now it's like this and runs fine...what i need to do next...what to block my friend ( sorry but i'm not very good in mecanic :P)


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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 23-11-2016, 17:21 Thread Starter
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I must add that MAF is not working and put a paper clip between pins 1-5
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 23-11-2016, 17:46 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E_T_V View Post
If it runs fine with the vacuum disconnected (and blocked) then it is probably a sticking EGR. Simple blank it off or close it and leave the valve disconnected.

E_T_V ...i make a mistake ... i take the vacuum out from the EGR Vacuum Regulator ...as it show in my picture, not from MAP!

EGR Vacuum Regulator is the one making noise when the engine goes faulty, and after taking the vacuum out ...everything it's fine!

Could it be a faulty EGR or a faulty EGR Vacuum Regulator????
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 23-11-2016, 21:13
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Either block the open end of the pipe from the EGR solenoid with a screw/bolt etc (as the vacuum it uses is also used for the braking system!)

Another option is to simply unplug the EGR solenoid electrical connection.

If the MAF sensor is bridged out then the EGR will be being sent faulty signals anyway (As the MAF controls the EGR).

Depending on age this may turn the engine management light on.
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 24-11-2016, 05:19 Thread Starter
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the car is year 2000 so no management light on so far! Then, if i unplug the EGR solenoid electrical connection isn't necessary to block that pipe, or to take it out from EGR!

Can i run the car without any problem with that unplugged as much as i want or i must change soon the EGR or the EGR solenoid? In this case, wich is faulty, or how can i test them to know wich to change?


cAN U HELP ME WITH GENUINE PART NR. FOR EGR AND EGR SOLENOID IF I NEED TO BUY THEM?

p.s. Tks E_T_V for helping me! I'm from Romania and there are not to many Rover lovers to give help!

Last edited by alex_orastie; 24-11-2016 at 06:04.
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 24-11-2016, 08:12 Thread Starter
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I've read somewhere that i need 12v on EGR actuator valve/solenoid with engine running...mine has 7-8v! Also, conecting the down pipe to EGR with the engine running....if the EGR it's ok...the engine must stalling, almost stoped...it's seems that the EGR is fine, isn't it? BUT WHY I DON'T HAVE 12V ON EGR actuator valve????

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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 24-11-2016, 16:43
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The EGR solenoid gets a pulse signal to rapidly switch it on and off (that is what the buzzing noise is). If the car works normally with the EGR solenoid electrically disconnected then there is no need to unplug anything else. It also does not need to be replaced.

The EGR helps reduce NOx emissions and helps slightly with warm up time. NOx emissions are not tested (at least in the UK they aren't), and so you can leave the car like this permanently if you wish.
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 24-11-2016, 19:21 Thread Starter
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i blank with a screw the pipe from solenoid to EGR! but what about the pipe from EGR? i leave it free or must be blanked the same?
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 25-11-2016, 07:23
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You can leave the EGR valve disconnected with no pipe on it.
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 26-11-2016, 09:12 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E_T_V View Post
You can leave the EGR valve disconnected with no pipe on it.
ok, tks E_T_V!

Another problem ... If i turn the rod shown in picture 1-2 turns 180 degrees ... to be shorter ...will i gain some boost? It's recomanded or it's risky considering my papercliped MAf and EGr vaccum blocked?


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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 27-11-2016, 21:57
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Depends on what boost you are currently running. Max boost I recommend on the standard turbo is 19psi (standard is 17psi),
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 29-11-2016, 06:31 Thread Starter
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I don't know what boos i have now, probably standard...i fell my car very...slowly.....i need more power but can i do something without EGR and MAF? Here in Romania i don't have any help to do anything to my Rover ...only help i had is here on this forum!
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 29-11-2016, 12:43
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The usual first mod would be to fit some injectors from the 200/400/600 diesel. These flow more fuel and usually give 20-30bhp more than you have now. If you cannot source these locally you may be able to source new nozzles and fit them or have a diesel place fit them. If you need part numbers let me know and I'll dig them out.
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 29-11-2016, 12:51 Thread Starter
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on Rimmerbros there are rover 200/400 to 95 an rover 200/25? witch generation or R 200 do i need?
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 29-11-2016, 23:23
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Don't bother with the rimmers site trying to find part numbers for the nozzles as I don't think they'll have them

The nozzle part numbers are:

Di injector nozzles
DSLA 145 P 446

25/45 injector nozzles are
DSLA of 145 DSLA P 870

You want to swap the P870 nozzles which you have with the P446 ones.
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 30-11-2016, 17:54 Thread Starter
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Here can i find DSLA 145 P 446 nozzles...here in Romania i don/t find anything!

if i let the originals and turn that in the picture i will gain some power with MAF with paperclip or must change the MAF, the EGR...and the feel some power?
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 30-11-2016, 23:24
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IF you replace the MAF with a paperclip you will get a lot more low rpm power but not extra high rpm power usually. If the ECU recognises the MAF is faulty you'll get an rpm limit at about 3800-3900rpm. With a working MAF then the rpm should easily exceed 4200rpm when driven.

Simply upping the boost (by adjusting the actuator) will gain no high rpm power. If you put a paperclip across the MAF then it may help minimise the smoke that will be caused at low rpms but only a little. And you need to know what boost level you are setting it to. If you can read live data then the MAP sensor output will tell you what the boost is under full load. I'd recommend no higher than 19psi.
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