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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 28-02-2017, 20:11 Thread Starter
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streetwise td hard to start

hi folks
my apologies as I know I have started a thread on here about this but cant seem to find it( its called age}. since the cold weather car has been hard to start taking to many turns to fire up had to finally bite the bullet and take it into garage in north London to get it fixed I know everything points to glow plugs or timing out a bit as I can remember some of you posted in the other thread as cam belt was done few months back.
but the garage has now had it 8 days and still saying they think that one of the injectors is leaking air in. I had car back off them at the weekend as needed it and it was even harder to start.
they now have the car back but have any of you guys ever known an injector to let air in and so making it hard to start, all this coincided with cold weather. I have to be honest and say that if a garage told me it was raining I would still go outside and check.

cheers guys
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 28-02-2017, 20:31
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Is your battery ok?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 28-02-2017, 21:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-Sid View Post
hi folks
my apologies as I know I have started a thread on here about this but cant seem to find it( its called age}. since the cold weather car has been hard to start taking to many turns to fire up had to finally bite the bullet and take it into garage in north London to get it fixed I know everything points to glow plugs or timing out a bit as I can remember some of you posted in the other thread as cam belt was done few months back.
but the garage has now had it 8 days and still saying they think that one of the injectors is leaking air in. I had car back off them at the weekend as needed it and it was even harder to start.
they now have the car back but have any of you guys ever known an injector to let air in and so making it hard to start, all this coincided with cold weather. I have to be honest and say that if a garage told me it was raining I would still go outside and check.

cheers guys
Poor/non starting only when cold

Check glow plug relay is giving power to glow plugs (check for 10-12v at glow plugs when the igntion is turned on with a cold engine). If not then suspect a burned out relay (quite common)

Check glow plugs - Disconnect battery, and disconnect wires from each glow plug. Measure resistance from earth to electrical connection on plug. It should be an ohm or two. If it is zero then that plug is faulty. If it is infinity the plug is also faulty. An L series will start fine on 3 glow plugs, the forth does not need changing as it is a pain when hidden behind the fuel pump. 25/45 etc will often start fine without any glow plugs. Earlier 200/400/600 are more reliant on them.

If the poor starting occurs after distrubing the cam or fuel pump belts then suspect incorrect fuel pump timing as the cause of the poor starting. This is very common

Pump priming bulb until it becomes hard before the first starting attempt. If starting is improved then you have an air leak into the fuel system. Usually either the priming bulb itself or the injector leak off pipes. Both are cheap to replace.

I hope this gives you a few ideas of things to check.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 18:14 Thread Starter
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thanks for that there is a small garage by where I am working only 3 mechanics who know there stuff and I will take it to them this week as they said pretty much what you have just said.
when I dropped the car off again monday morning I popped a small washer on top of front wheel and when I drive past the forecourt at 6-30am I stop and low and behold the washer is still on the wheel which goes to show it has not been mover but when I ring them later on they say they are still doing checks on it. but it seems the problem is the most expensive ( injectors) and not the cheap obvious ones like you have listed.
again thanks for your reply
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 20:40
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I would be very surprised if it is injectors as I've been around here a while and I've never actually heard of a duff one on an L series. (injectors are a common fault on the BMW diesel in the 75/zt though).

When were the cam/fuel pump belts last disturbed?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 16:27 Thread Starter
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fuel pump was done about 15 months ago and cambelt done on 30th july last year. but it has sat idle in my garage till xmas last year when I put it on the road but I am sure it started ok and certainly did when I put it on the road and all this coincided with the cold weather.
spoke to garage this morning and they are sure it is the pump or the injectors and they want 400 just to remove them and send them away to be tested.i have continually asked them if the check started with the glow plugs then relay then primer bulb, cambelt timing check etc but all you are able to get through to is the reception and some girl says " I think so". thing is I took it there because some years ago a guy who was there rover expert did turbo pipes on my previous streetwise and it went like a rocket after and he was very good taking time to explain to me but after I dropped car into them I found out he had left.
what puts me off is that it always the most expensive thing that is goes wrong. also k+d mobile mechanics from derby way did the fuel pump and cambelt.
I am now going to decide to find a good mobile mechanic around Essex or take it up to bham and take it to a rover place there or even Scunthorpe ( ha ha ). or if not take a day off and do glow plugs then relay if the injector or pump was playing up then surely the car would not perform as well as it does when running
thanks so much E_T_V
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 20:25
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Exactly right - if the injectors were faulty it would run badly all of the time usually. Pumps usually die completely or get "tractor syndrome" which makes them VERY noisy - you would notice this!

Depending on how DIY capable you are many things are simple enough to check

1. Pump the priming bulb till it goes hard before the first attempt at starting - if starting is much improved then you have an air leak into the fuel system. Try it - it is free and easy to do

2. If you have a volt meter (or can borrow one), check that the glow plugs are receiving power. You are looking for a few seconds (less than 10 usually), of 12v when you turn the igntion key on (note the glow plug light on the dash actually has no connection to the glow plugs operation!).

3. If you are more DIY capable then check the cambelt timing yourself. A couple of drill bits, some spanners and some patience is all you need.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 00:58
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A new battery cured my struggles to start.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 16:07 Thread Starter
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got the car back from the garage today took a good few turns to fire up but when it did it went like stink as they say, it flew round the m25 and up the a12 so like you say if the injectors were playing up the surely there would be a performance issue but there is not. also there is no noise at all from the pump.
I am mechanically minded and used to strip down my mgb engine and rebuild it totally but I have to be honest I look under the bonnet of the rover and would not know where to start especially with timing and I work 6 days a week on the gas in central London and my mg zr is taking up the garage space at the moment.
I looked on the net last night and found a place called mg rover repair centre in wickford Essex and spoke to the guy and he seems to know his stuff. he was saying pretty much what you are saying. I will try the primer bulb tomorrow at work and borrow a volt meter off a mate just to see what the reading is.
again thanks so much for taking time to reply you have been a great help.
will post on here what the problem is and if it is glow plugs then I cant wait to give that garage a ring back
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 09:03
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To check the belt timing you need 2 drill bits and some patience!

You insert a 6.5mm drill bit into the rear of the bell housing (near the crank sensor). Then ideally get someone to slowly rotate the engine whilst pushing this pin in. Eventually it will slot into a hole in the flywheel to lock the engine in the correct position.

Then remove the fuel pump belt cover (you'll need to remove the airbox too).
Once you can see the belt you should be able to slot another larger drill bit (9.5mm I think) through the pump pulley and into a hole behind it. If you need to rotate the engine (after removing the flywheel pin), to get it to fit then the timing is wrong. 1/2 a tooth makes all the difference.

If you need to reset the timing you loosen the 4 outer bolts on the end of the camshaft pulley (this allows it to move/rotate). Insert the timing pins in both flywheel and fuel pump.
Tension the fuel pump belt BEFORE tightening the 4 outer cam bolts. If you can't get enough adjustment then remove the belt rotate the pulley back the opposite way and refit. It is important that the belt is tensioned BEFORE you tighten up the 4 final cam bolts as setting the tension moves the pump timing - and this is where many people and many garages get it wrong.

Once tensioned and the cam bolts done up then remove the pins and check it starts ok. Then replace everything (belt cover and airbox).
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 08:39
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Well worth checking the leak off pipes for soundness as I had big trouble with old fuel pipes that had literally become old and started to fall apart on my zr tdi. Let a lot of air into the system.
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