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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2013, 08:34
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John,
Do you have the servo as well. If I am going to change the master cylinder I may as well do the servo at the same time to save stripping it all down twice if the master cylinder is not the cause.
Can I send payment by Paypal or do you prefer a cheque? Can you PM me an email or address?
PM sent.

John.

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 28-07-2013, 17:49 Thread Starter
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Unhappy Still no joy

I have now checked all the calipers,changed the front o/s caliper as the bleed screw was unwell, changed the master cylinder and bled about a litre of new fluid through the system. The symptoms are still the same; the pedal slowly sinks to the floor when the engine is running but it is rock hard when the engine is off. Any ideas anyone?
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 28-07-2013, 19:02
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I have now checked all the calipers,changed the front o/s caliper as the bleed screw was unwell, changed the master cylinder and bled about a litre of new fluid through the system. The symptoms are still the same; the pedal slowly sinks to the floor when the engine is running but it is rock hard when the engine is off. Any ideas anyone?
How frustrating. So hard to say.

Does the Brake Pedal actually reach the floor under sustained foot pressure?

Many moons ago, my 220 Rover Coupe braked very well indeed but, failed the MoT Brake Pedal Creep test.

I was surprised and queried why and when the MoT tester demonstrated the problem, the front nearside flexible brake pipe to the caliper actually burst showering a nearby technician with a jet of brake fluid !

In previous ownership, the owner had 'upgraded' the front brake pipes with 'expensive' Braided ones. I replaced both sides with OE pipes and the car immediately braked better and passed the retest without delay.

There's always a reason for these things. As always, trick is identifying them.

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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 28-07-2013, 19:39
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clamp each flexible hose off in turn to see if you get a better pedal
how have you bled the system pressure bleeding is a better way also do not reuse any fluid unless it's bee stood for 48 hours you get micro bubbles in the fluid
i use one of these mine is 20 years old now still works well just make sure the tyre pressure is at 20 psi no more or you get a big mess

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-Eez...item2a2e7e9efa
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 29-07-2013, 07:16 Thread Starter
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I didn't reuse any brake fluid - I got 2 litres in before starting the job! I also have an eazibleed but I have been unable to find a cap that will fit my Rovers. I tried making one from an old cap from a scrappy but it lifts and sprays brake fluid all over (even at 10psi tyre pressure). Anyway, I have my wife well trained in bleeding brakes and she has been doing it since she was 10 for her Dad!
I will try clamping each hose in turn as you suggest - that is a great idea which I wish I thought of yesterday!
Thanks - I will let you know next week end.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 29-07-2013, 17:40 Thread Starter
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Copper sealing washers on brake hose banjos

When I replaced one of the front calipers this weekend, there were no copper sealing washers either side of the banjo joining the flexible hose to the caliper. The Rimmer bros site shows there should be one but the caliper was the original on the car (had it from new) and the hose has never been disconnected before. Is this right? Should there be copper washers, if so one or two (one or both sides of banjo) and what size are they? If they should be present I will have a look at the other calipers on each wheel in turn and fit them as this could presumably be the cause of my brake pedal creep if they have been left off from new? Should they be collapsible washers or can I buy solid ones as from EBay?
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 29-07-2013, 21:09
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There should be a slim, thin washer either side of the Banjo Union. They could still be there closely attached to either side of the banjo looking like they are part of the assembly, not loose.

never worked on any Caliper Banjo Union which did not have those slim washers.

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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 14:12
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I have a similar fault with an auto 400. New master cylinder hasn't fixed it. Also replaced the pressure control valve (unique to the auto model) but still the same. Everything points to the master cylinder but the fault was there before the new m/cyl was fitted so that would seem to cancel that out. The flexi hoses are OK...
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 02:19
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Originally Posted by MGMetroChamp View Post
I have a similar fault with an auto 400. New master cylinder hasn't fixed it. Also replaced the pressure control valve (unique to the auto model) but still the same. Everything points to the master cylinder but the fault was there before the new m/cyl was fitted so that would seem to cancel that out. The flexi hoses are OK...


Get someone to press the pedal while you check the hoses. I've never had it, but have heard they can expand when old and worn
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 14:08 Thread Starter
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Eventually it just disappeared and sorted itself out. Quite bizarre!
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